Have leak in radiator...MOT has the coach. Was told MOT put BARS in the radiator to seal leak. My initial uninformed opinion is HUH? I'm very concerned. Was this the right step to take? Looking for the wisdom of the forum on this one. Thanks so much. Wow.
dave
Bar's leak is the first line of attack on a leaky radiator. It does work a lot of the time. The only down side is possible heater core blockage.
Actually that is the approved procedure. Search the forum for lots of threads on the topic. I recall up to two jars of the stuff, one application only
Thanks Craneman and Tim....your replies have eased my mind a lot! I was freakin out just a bit....THANK YOU very much for the quick replies.
dave
Find the reason for the leak. Bar's Leak may be only a bandaid solution for a more serious problem. Could be tightening the fasteners may stop a leak where it's bolted together or corrosion may be causing a potentially more serious problem. An independent radiator shop may be able to repair it without a major expense.
Pierce
Hi Dave
Like Pierce said first check the mounts. Tighten gently, you don't want to strip these. I had to do this to when I first got my coach. Read in the forum about Barr's, my thought was the same as yours, though I have used it in cars in the past. After tightening I still had a small leak, couple of drops a minute. Drained about a gallon out of the radiator, mixed the Barr's into warm water. It takes awhile to dissolve, then added it back into the radiator. That was 2 years ago, no leaks since. I do keep a close watch on the water levels.
Cheers Ric 8)
Just discovered (yesterday @ Cummins) that there is some kind of green jelly like slime in my radiator, have no history on coach so they are checking to find out what it is...... hopefully the PO did not use the anti freeze that was out a few years ago which had a silicone jell stop leak in it......
Bars leak is good stuff, I use it in all of my rigs as the first attack of a leak. (Actually, check for leaks and tighten as needed is my first approach). I'd have to look again, but I'm thinking that bars leak also has a water pump lubricating component in it. Have a great day ---- Fritz
I just had the radiator replaced on my coach. Had added less than a gallon of coolant in the last 6K miles and never saw any coolant on the ground until the weather turned cold. Pressure test indicated leaks at both the front and rear tanks. Thought about using Barrs Leak but at 13+years old past experience told me that would just get me to the middle of nowhere before the radiator let go. Since the fans, shrouding and CAC make it very hard to get a good look at the radiator it makes the decision a little harder. Bit the bullet and had OTM replace the radiator. Once it was out I breathed a sigh of relief as it was pretty much falling apart. This was a pain full $$$ experience but I feel a lot better knowing the problem was fixed and not just patched. Your decision may be different.
Forgot to add the photo☺
All 'new' coach owners should drain, flush, flush, refill coolant system with new filter. Impossible to know exactly what was in the coolant, when it was changed, etc. Cooling systems are often not regularly maintained, and the wrong PH, DCA, etc can wreak havoc on engine and components.
This is also one maintenance project that can be done by owner, usually better than a shop, who may be reluctant to do multiple flushes with driving in between each.
Do you drive on roads where salt is used? My 1981 has no leaks and no surface corrosion. My 1999 is just as good.
Our 1993 also has zero corrosion and is super clean. Another reason to pass on northern coaches unless they have had unusually good care. Road chemical damage eventually shows up everywhere and anytime. Ours still had rust behind the big angle iron and several broken Roloks.
Pierce
We just bought our coach in July so I can't say for sure if it was ever driven on roads that were treated with salt/chemicals. I do know that the PO spent most winters in the Tuscon area. I have crawled underneath the coach from front to back and could not find any signs of unusual corrosion. Having discussed this with Isaac at OTM he tells me that in his many years of experience this is not an anomaly. Since FOT is the only source for these radiators and that they seem to move their inventory pretty fast this is probably not too uncommon.
The coolant used was Shell Rotella ELC and it looked pristine when it was drained.
Having been in the trucking business for many years I know that radiators will fail but I've never seen on this bad. But then again a front mounted radiator in a class 8 tractor lives in a completely different world than our rear/side mounted ones do. I think the tractor radiator has an easier life.
Should to be able to go directly to Atlas down in Corpus Christie. I went to them for my charge cooler.
I think another reason radiators corrode from outer bottom side is from leaves & grass clippings being sucked into radiator and accumulated between outer coolers and radiator. Years ago, we opened up the bottom 'conveyer belt' and removed radiator grill, then used water pressure to flush out a bag full of leaves, plant stems, etc that have reduced our cooling capability. When we put the grill back on with removable screws, we first attached hardware cloth screen to backside of grill to prevent our cooling fans from vacuuming up everything it could, especially when driving slowly into a freshly cut grass campground.
I found on removing the CAC to repair it years ago that leaves etc had been thrown up by duals and landed between the rads causing possible heating and loss of cooling. Cleaned it all out and made sure that belting was sealing total perimeter of rad etc.
Air only comes thru grille as required.
JohnH
We also followed John Haygarth by sealing every air gap around the 'conveyer belt' radiator shroud with yellow spray expanding foam, then painted back. We did it to stop 'recycling' heated air, to further reduce overheating situations, by making sure that only 'new' cooler outside air flows through radiator.
I want to thank everyone who took time to post a reply. The knowledge on this forum is amazing, and for me it is a huge relief knowing answers to just about anything are just a forum away.
I spoke with Eric at MOT this afternoon, he too provided answers to my concerns. Apparently Bars is now added to new FT's as a matter of course, and is the first line of defense when a minor leak such as mine is discovered. In addition I was assured the radiator shows no signs of wear, corrosion, and the coolant itself is still within limits and it was recommended I not flush system at this time. Two more questions if I could....what exactly is the CAC? Also, it looks to me like the louvered area in front of the radiator is hinged at the top but I see no way to "open" it. I sure would like to get in there and do some cleaning....I see Simple Green Extreme Aircraft Cleaner is the proper wash for the job.....how to I raise that louvered area?
Thanks again everyone...
dave
I am not sure about your 2002 but on the '99 the grill is screwed on. look between the louvers for screw heads.
Charge Air Cooler
Eric can show you how to open, but if it is like on the 05 i had, feel along the bottom edge of the external louvered panel and you will find two latches that pull down to disengage the locks. Then raise, the hinge is along the top.
You mighy want to check this...when we put Bars in, MOT blanked off the collant filter. I think after a year, that is put back into service. The reason was the Bars material may have seen the filter as a leak due to its configuration.....i urge you to check this, not do own your own, for I may remrmber this incorrectly.....,but I think not.
About the middle of the bottom of the panel is a tab that you pull down (it has small cables to the latches on the leading and trailing edge of the panel, you may have to hit it with some WD-40 or similar to free them up
FYI: For those that may not know this but he new radiators from FOT come mounted in the framework with the fan shrouds, etc..This certainly makes installation easier but I'm sure helps explains the approx. $4K cost. There may have been some improvement in how the new radiators are constructed and mounted in the framework but I'm not sure that this is true.
Michael...will do...I have this written down to ask when I hopefully go to MOT next week to pick up coach
Thank you for the info...I would never had known about this if you hadn't mentioned it to me...wow...
see ya
dave