On a recent trip I had mistakenly filled the black tank to 100% when I noticed water (dirty) was next to toilet on floor coming out from bottom of toilet. I would have thought that if it was full it would just not empty bowl but the bowl emptied thus why I didn't notice we were over full. The problem is now the floor seems spongy next to toilet which tells me that it was not the first water leak. I need to pull toilet but does anyone know where I can get the seals and has anyone had leaks like this? I'm afraid that when I pull toilet it will be a major project. Any thoughts? I understand that these toilets use a wax ring? I looked online and cannot find parts.
What is the toilet brand and model number?
Ronnie and Jennifer,
You probably have the original Microflush toilet. The standard wax ring, found everywhere, will do the job. The floor on the other hand could turn into a project.
Bob
If the toilet is the OEM Microphor/Microflush LF-220 it should have had a wax ring. You need to make sure that the hopper has the wax ring backing flange so the wax ring will squish out properly. If someone changed to a foam ring that will be your leak point for both liquid and sewer gas. If this area has been this way for an extended time yes it will cause a spongy floor. It isn't that big of a deal to cut out the bad plywood and replace with new marine grade. The big thing is make sure you cut back to good material and your cut is over a floor joist.
Now if toilet has been changed out by PO all bets are off as to what they installed.
Pamela & Mike
The toilet is the original microphor electric. So if I understand correctly I can use a standard wax ring from Home Depot? I just don't want to pull it without having the parts to put back.
First YES a standard wax ring is what you need.
Now here is a show & tell. It took me a while to go out and find what Mike was talking about. (he could just lay his hands on it but I had to rummage around)
The white piece is the wax ring backing plate. If you don't have this piece you can still order a new one.
Pamela
Ron,
Here is another thing that needs to be addressed. With the trouble you have found you need to check the top of your black tank to see if it is holding a lake of "Poo" on top of it. (yes you might call it honey just not the kind that Winnie would be interested in) If the tank has gotten concaved on the top it will hold a lot more than you may think. I would also think about pulling both the black & grey tanks so you can clean the whole area up and check the floor seams. This sounds like a lot of work but it isn't as bad as you might think.
Pamela & Mike
From my understanding the OEM did not use a wax ring. In the RV's that I have had the toilet seals are neoprene. May be different with a Micro Phor but I would surely make certain before I would put a wax ring as a seal. Been good on houses that don't move but neoprene better on a rolling earthquake.
Roland
If you can use a wax ring, why not use the new waxless ring by SaniSeal. That may be a better choice for our coaches.
John M
Sani Seal Waxless Toilet Gasket (http://saniseal.com/?gclid=Cj0KEQiAw_DEBRChnYiQ_562gsEBEiQA4LcssrjMdK8ujqWyMFdG06Ktd3LxWSS3RMvb_YZufj_lsp4aAlcf8P8HAQ)
Roland,
Who ever told you this is mistaken. In the Microphor LF-220 instillation manual on page 3 it states under mounting use a wax ring.
I am certain a standard foam ring will be a mistake on the toilet we are talking about as the clearance isn't proper to give you the proper squish to be effective.
Pamela & Mike
John,
The big reason this product isn't as good as the old time wax ring is how the piping between the hopper is mated to the top of the tank piping and the floor cut out. If you were to change the cut out in the floor for more clearance this product may work due to the extra thickness.
Pamela & Mike
Hi Guys,
A thought about using a wax rings...I too have used a wax ring but noticed that any excess can gum up the black tank drain valve so that it won't shut off completely. Lots of fun removing the drain valve to clean it. As they say, don't ask me how I know this. So my suggestion would be to not to go over board thinking more wax is better for a better seal. Unless you know you need more wax (possibly because you have replaced the ceramic flooring with thinner vinyl, for example), I would stay with one ring or slightly less. Just my two cents.
Jim
2002 U320 42'
I just replaced my wax ring this morning. Standard wax ring is specified by microphor.
The process is the same as replacing a wax ring on home toilet with one complication. On my toilet it was necessary to reconnect the water prior to setting the toilet in place.. I had to connect the water supply lines, then apply the wax ring by tipping the toilet back.. Then had to lift the toilet and set down on the flange. The toilet had to be placed fairly precisely to keep the wax ring from shifting. I used painters tape to mark the edges of toilet prior to setting wax ring.
My toilet was leaking due to improper wax ring installation by previous owner.
Thanks everyone I don't look forward to it but I'll be pulling my toilet in the next week or so to work on it and hopefully the floor is ok if not it will be repaired as well. Hope it doesn't turn into a major project. Just one question the 4 mounting bolts do they bolt into the wood floor or into a flange like at home?
The bolts go into the floor. The subfloor is marine grade plywood. T is very resistant to water damage
More leak found. The toilet was leaking water on floor with empty black tank and found that the vacuumed valve stuck and water pooling out and down inside the water closet. I have parts ordered I hope one the new ring and valve are replace will be a nice dry floor. I will check floor well and let really dry hitting it hard with bleach to kill any growth before putting back together. If floor is solid I'd will be straight forward if not it may become project unknown. Will know this weekend. Parts sure aren't cheap for these
For those that do not have the Microphor, but have a Sealand toilet with a leaking vacuum valve...
Earlier Sealands used a different vacuum breaker than on recent Sealands.
We have rebuilt our toilet several times and always kept our porcelain bowl because replacement bowls are taller and less comfortable to use.
I believe that only part that is unique to the original porcelain bowl is the vacuum breaker, which used a longer tube and a different seal into the porcelain water entry port. All other current parts, like base, ball, spring, cover are the same for original and current Sealands.
The vacuum valve for our older bowl is Sealand part 385 319 055, Vacuum Break with extension & new sprayer hose & handle.
And Sealand recommends that the older porcelain bowls with overflow holes get the plugs Sealand has to plug those two holes. Turns out they don't consider the holes necessary in an RV, and they also let "fragrant odors" waft up.
I did ours when we had a floor leak. I ripped up the blue/brown carpet, put fans blowing onto the floor (above & below) for a week. Then bleach to sanitize, then fans again for two days, then three coats of clear sealer. No leaks will ever soak the floor again!
Floating tile and then reinstalled the toilet.
On a Sealand toilet, what is the proper base to floor seal ? On mine, SOME PO thought silicone was the stuff to use !!
It would be the foam seal that Sealand has
Sealand part # 385 310 063, Floor Flange Seal Kit
I replaced my microphone with a thetford manual and liked it much better. Used less water and flushed better.