Sorry no pictures for now because rig is at shop. The 3 inch coolant system pipe that runs under the engine toward the rear has a 5cent size hole. The clamp held moisture and rusted through. What are the repair options?
Shop is telling me that a silicone boot won't work because of the system pressure and a new pipe is $$$ and 5-6 weeks. Would a welder be able to put on a patch?
The same silicon hoses that are on both ends hold the pressure, so why not over a hole? If there is a metal pipe it can be welded. Because you say it rusted through it must be steel not aluminum. I personally would braze a patch over it if it were mine as my arc welding skills are for heavier metal.
Are they sure it is 3" and not 2",if it is just mild steel what about a muffler shop to make a new one?
I'll know more on Monday. The shop is removing it (have to drain the coolant). Muffler shop route would be nice.
If it rusted out a clamp, what about cutting it off clean before the hole and getting a slightly longer silicon hose section? Assuming it isn't about to rust through in other places... The ultimate would be to have it fabricated out of 316 stainless (or even 409 as used in some exhaust components).
Don
Cut out the rusted section and connect the two ends with a radiator hose and clamps just like all the other hoses are connected. You can later figure out if you want to make changes.
Is it a Cummins part or a Foretravel part or what, don't understand the 6 week wait.
More than likely a Foretravel part.
John
weld it should work fine.
If the hole is where a hanger clamp was then what Don and Barry suggest is a good fix. Be sure the pipe is adequately supported.
If the hole is where a clamp was holding a silicone fitting at the end then maybe cutting off three inches or so and welding on a new section would work. Any welded area will start rusting immediately. Maybe coat it with a spray on undercoating?
The hole is not near an end, the hanger is directly under the engine. Not sure but I think the shop went to FT for the part and got the long time to make.
I'm disappointed that the hanger trapped water and caused the hole. This happened before on another pipe. Got to be a better way.
Could have rubbed a hole. Or more likely, trapped road salt.
The shop is likely hesitant about throwing the price of silicone hose in the middle because there won't be a lip like there is at the end of the pipe. Welding is a good option tif welding would be best as there isn't all that much wall thickness in them. High quality piece from a muffler shop is a great suggestion. You could try the lucky truck parts lottery and take the rotten pipe in to find a close match. Everything up here rots at the clamp first regardless of clamp design.
I assume the clamp is steel and has two halves with one of the halves connected to the hanger?
Why not discard the non-hanger half and weld the other half over the hole and seam weld it all-around. The half clamp becomes the patch and it won't ever happen again and the hanger tab is still there. Will probably need to adjust the hanger to the new position.
Muffler shop sounds like a good option also. They could make a duplicate or they might be willing do a patch as well - maybe with a hanger tab welded on as well.
Put a piece of mud flap rubber between the clamp and the pipe, sounds like it rubbed the hole and it rusted, if water from rain got
in there it would dry up pretty quick going down the road.
These guys made me a elbow for mine stainless steel Great work, BHTubes.com (http://www.bhtubes.com/shop/)
Howdy Larry,
We repaired a small pin-hole leak in our coolant pipe with a Band Aid product like this: Stainless Steel Pipe Repair Clamp-Fast, Easy and Permanent (http://www.jerman.com/220specs.html)
We purchased from a commercial/industrial plumbing supply store. For a temporary repair, until I could locate the pipe Band-Aid, we used a pipe clamp and piece of rubber from a cheap mud-flap. The Band-Aid has been on for over three years, and so far (knock walnut) no problems. The replacement pipe from FOT was big $$
Good Luck, Dave A
Keep seeing mention of "holding the pressure". Anything unique about diesel cooling systems? In cars, the cooling system pressure is controlled by the radiator cap. As I recall, without walking outside to look, the caps on most Cummins engines open at 15 psi. Doesn't seem it would be that challenging to hold that pressure with a normal hose + clamp type connection, even without a "lip" on the pipe.
Nothing unique about them Chuck. It all depends on what an owner feels comfortable doing. ''Twas me I'd patch it then see about replacing said pipe at my leisure.
There are rubber pipe connectors where a full width stainless steel band goes all the way around to tighten uniformly and reinforce the joint. Maybe this would work in a pinch
Those are drain, waste, vent only for pressure. But the same idea with the silicone hose used on the cooling system would work.
I have used those connectors on drain pipes to make it easier to remove and use a snake to unclog drains.
If the pipe is in good shape except where the hole is I would weld it with a patch. Another option is to cut the bad section out and
and put a rad hose over the cut out section. Use two hose camps on each end of the hose. That could be a permanent fix. and the third option is to make up a new pipe. The clamp should have had rubber between the clamp and the pipe.
All good ideas! Main problem for me doing the fix was the need to drain the coolant enough to take the pipe off. I just didn't want to get into that in my RV port. I think the shop gave me the answer about not being able to use a silicone boot because of pressure before they really looked at it.
Yes it did, but not enough to prevent the damage, so head's up to everybody who likes to craw around the engine and inspect the pipe hangers.
If the hole is on the bottom you could braze in a drain petcock, if the rest of the pipe is OK.