I discovered on my routine monthly check of the MH that the generator would not start, nor would the WH stay lit for very long. When I tried the stove, it started out ok but the burner quickly went down to very low before going out so I know I have a leak and it seems to be at the main Vapor valve on the tank. I do have an external tank mounted but it is empty and I need to fill it to see if my issues go away (except for the generator which won't run off the external tank). I'm fairly certain there is a leak at the valve. So, I need to have that tank emptied (it's almost full) and the valve replaced. Is this a job for Campingworld or some other RV service center or do I need to go to a propane dealership? Do service centers usually have the ability to preserve the propane before working on the tank? Seems like the last time I wanted to get a propane dealer to work on my tank (for the exterior tank hook-up), the few that I called would not touch it.
Personally I would take it to a Propane appliance/motor fuel service center.
They should have the specialty fittings needed to do this and recover the propane in your tank.
While they are at it , this would be a good opportunity to replace all the valves and fittings & re-certify the tank.
altho most propane centers "should" be able to vacate the tank and replace the valves.
red
Are you thinking it's the main shut-off valve or the overflow valve? Either one, it's going to be fun. Our main shut-off leaked and we almost got thrown out of the campground, since I could not smell it. Unless, some smart cookie has figured a way to drain the tank, you've got to run it dry, yourself, and I mean DRY! In Arizona, the word I got from outlets I called, was Fire Dept. regs prohibited any draining of tanks on premises. It takes forever to drain the tank, we finally took the coach out in the boonies and opened the bleeder. Someone that has done this, will have a special tool (usually shop made) to get the valve off, it is tight, and usually a two person job.
Good luck, you are right about the extension, it will work for everything EXCEPT the gen-set.
Try shutting off the valve and then opening it VERY slowly.
Could just be that the access flow valve is not allowing full flow.
Could also be the propane regulator. You are dealing with very low PSI (about .5 PSI) downstream of the regulator.
Can you smell it, or has your inside "sniffer" gone off?
Most valves have a packing nut you can tighten down, if it is leaking around the handle shaft. But a leak should not cause lack of flow. It sounds to me more like an issue with the regulator.
I would NOT have Calling World come anywhere near a propane leak on my coach (or for anything else for that matter). Diagnosing leaks on our coaches is difficult, I know I chased a leak on our coach for months before I found it. Your leak appears to be significant if it is big enough to stop appliances from working and the smell should be horrible. I'm not sure from your description that you have a leak that is big enough to prevent the appliances from functioning (just sounds suspicious). This is what I would do if it were my coach.
1 Plumb in a gauge after the regulator.
2. Plumb in shutoffs on each leg of the propane " manifold".
3. Purchase a propane sniffer and determine just where my leak is.
That is what I did last year to find my propane leak. It cost me less then it would have to have someone else work on my coach and I gained both knowledge and tools. The shutoffs add a blessing as I can turn the propane of on any leg that I need to work on and yes I have needed to do that this past year. The gauge let's me adjust for proper pressure.
Just my approach to things.
Roland
Dwayne,
x2 on Brett's comment
If you have a tank full of propane you probably do not have a massive leak.
Get some soapy water and check valves, fittings etc. for leaks. Propane is a liquid
and is pumped into your tank and can be pumped out. We used to fill tractors and
other farm equipment from tanks like we have on our MHs. A good propane dealer can
handle this. Call around and find one capable. If you are near a farming area call the dealers
and ask who does valve replacement.
From what you have said it sounds like Brett's thoughts are correct that you have regulator problems.
Good luck in your hunt,
Carter-
Most propane dealers pump a tank dry before they move it from one location to another or work on it.
After my coach sat for a couple of months last summer, I had problems with my propane appliances. I lightly tapped with a hammer on all of the valves and regulator next to my propane tank. Magically the appliances started working.
Only coaches with a 'Liquid' valve / outlet can be easily emptied by transferring the liquid propane into another 'empty' tank. When our main shutoff leaked, the propane repair shop transferred our full tank's liquid by connecting a hose to our liquid tap, and credited me for the quantity.
Many earlier coaches with diesel generators were built with large propane tanks that were left over from the time coaches were built with propane generators. And these tanks (like ours) have an unused caped off liquid valve.
Many later coach builds did not have the liquid valve, so the only way to empty the tank is by vapor venting into the air, and of course this is a slow & flammable procedure.
From your description, I don't think it is known if you have a leak or where it is coming from. I would NEVER take this problem to Camping World, and would ONLY take it to a propane dealer that has someone to do repairs, either from a mobile unit or at their shop.
Almost all repairs to propane tanks can be made while tank is full, except for main valve problems. Replacing the 'spit' liquid-level vent valve on a full tank is no problem because behind the valve is a very small pin-hole that will just vent vapor when this valve is removed. Gauge, regulator & hose / tubing are also changeable with a full tank.
BTW, we bought a battery operated propane sniffer electronic tool that looks like the attached. We used it to pinpoint a leak and to later verify that we do not have a leak.
On our 91GV, I had to replace the regulator to the GEN SET. I decided to replace the main chassis regulator at the same time. Problem you run into is that they don't make those old ones anymore, and the new ones look alot the same ,but are just enough different so that it won't just fit right in. There are good flexible hoses out there and I had to go to one of those to finally get it all in. Dealing with anything but the main shut off valve is not too difficult. Have a great day ---- Fritz