Plug wires to HWH leveling touch pad was loose so had HWH send me a replacement pigtail, so far so good.(wires arn't quite the same sequence of colors, but did one for one)
Cut the wires one at a time and used crimp butt connectors (only mis wired one, but caught it before putting power to pad.
(Had to really pull wires hard to get enough slack to connect wires to each other)
Turned key on and nothing! no lights... nuttin. so hit the HWH reset switch and still nothing..BUT
on transmission touch pad have a weird symbol.. looks like a hyphen(dash?) with an angular slash thru it..... instead of the expected "N" for neutral ,
What have I done?... blown fuse ??? If so where is it?? and what does it look like?
Pulled wires too hard---been there, done that!
OK, is there a "quick disconnect" terminal for the pigtail ?
Just noticed something.... the new wire loom that HWH sent me has a terminating resistor in line....... I wonder if this is what's not allowing the system to work????
Red,
How much extra wire would you have expected
HWH to put on a system that (probably) ONLY sold for
10 or 15 thousand ??? Wire is expensive !
Carter-
Yup, altho HWH told me that it is a FT wiring loom,, so I really think that if I can get confirmation from someone here that has replaced this portion of the loom to speak up, I could try to eliminate the termination resistor, and see if that works..
Note ... the original loom did not have this resistor in it....
The "weird symbol" is referred to as "snake eyes". Search that term on this Forum and you will find that it usually indicates a "communication problem between the touch pad and the ECU". I know that doesn't help much, but perhaps reading through some of the old posts on this subject might give you a clue where to look.
Never heard of, and don't know anything about, the resistor...sorry.
When it quits raining (ya right!) will cut the resistor out of the circuit and see what happens...
I would be hesitant to cut the resistor out with a label that reads do not cut. I might still cut it......but I don't know.
Roland
The Snake Eyes symbol on the shift selector also happens if the chassis batteries are low or have a poor ground, etc.It seems to be pretty sensitive to low voltage conditions. Might just want to verify connections, though IIRC, the leveling touch pad gets its power from the house batteries.
Don
There was not a resister in the wires and connection I'm replacing, so I'm thinking that it is something that HWH uses not FT....will give it a whirl in the morning
Terminating resistor makes me think this is a wire harness for digital communication. Probably a later model. Most likely will need to remove resistors but can test bypass by inserting pin through wire before resistors, alligator clip jumpers.
Snake eyes on keypad could be low battery, possibly the connection between keypad (allison) and plug jostled loose.
I'd probably do as Chuck suggested and just jumper out the resistor, but then, I may hesitate when seeing his reply was #13 !
Soo.. got rid of the resistor mess and hooked wires strait up like before the push plug went south.. No more snake eyes, but still no power to touch pad or start circuit. will see if I can reach far enough to see by feel the connections on the allison touch pad, one may have slipped off while pulling wires to hwh touch pad.......... time for a nap
OK, got power to dash back,(chassis batteries low, shore power with boost button on, but not charging the chassis batteries) wires hooked up to touch pad for leveling... now where is the fuse(s) located???? no schematic's to show me where they are at. Are they in the front bay? (I have 2 clear control boxes there (1 has sticker that says 110/220). in the 2nd bay I have another clear control box
thnx
red.
On mine, in the first bay there are 2 control boxes. The one on the left is the one HWH used to help me troubleshoot problems. This box had 3 rings and the fuses that we tested were in the 3rd ring.
Easy to take apart but a pain to get the gaskets back in order.
THNX !
Had snow this morning, so will wait until it dries out (and warms up) then see what I can find...
Are they "normal" fuses or different looking?,
update... waiting on James @ FT to call me back, then will be serious about getting coach ready to head to Nac middle of April.
This may help. You can download the manual off of HWH site.
I would suggest that you contact HWH - Randy. It might take them a while to get back to you but they are worth a call.
OK.. the left control box (toward the rear of the coach)has the 110/220 sticker on it... is that the one I want?
OK here is what I'm looking at.
For what it is worth--There are now fuses available on the market that glow after they blow. Makes finding the blown one a whole bunch easier.
Well back to square one..
Found the wire plug locally and the inserts as well, then over to NAPA for the colored wire (16 & 18 gauge).
now to put everything together and hopefully will have good connections......
Good luck, Red. Glad this one is yours and not mine, this time.
Happy wiring,
Carter-
Ya.... Just have fingers crossed that I blew a fuse not pulled the wires apart, followed them and is a can of worms going thru the floorboards....
Today I opened up the HWH control box, got to the 3rd "ring" and found a fuse blown..other 4 fuses good..... now have travel light back on the touch pad... but no other lights... looking further.
1 step at a time I guess .. good job so far!!
If the weather eases up a bit will check the fuse on the 12 air compressor, then back into the 3 ringed circus (control box) for the battery fuses....
short update, changed out the 5amp fuse @ the 12v compressor, old one looked good but while I 'm there .. replaced it.
no joy
Well what an ordeal... checked the rest of the fuses I could find in that 3 ring circus called a control box,,,, nuttin amiss... then the "fun"(?) started..... 6 hours later got those !@#$%^&*()_ rubber bands back in place.....
So now will try to figure out which one of the power wires (think it is the one that is keyed) may be pulled apart......
Saddlesore--do what my DW kept telling me when I was so frustrated trying to find why my passenger turn to the toad wouldn't work:
Do ONE (1) wire at a time!! ONE wire at a time!!! ONE wire at a time!
Turned out she was right and, as usual, I was wrong.
Try to stay calm (I didn't until she made me cool down) and then go back in and check continuity of ONE wire at a time as far back as feasible. I found that a butt splice wasn't doing its' job and I wasn't getting current through. My mistake. I ASS--UMED something that I shouldn't have.
If not sure--replace the *#@*% wire or connector.
(See, now I am getting riled up!) Absolutely hate things that function and then don't function. Very hard to find why. :))
Yup, have taken more than a few coffee breaks, at the point now trying to find what each of the wires @ the touch pad goes to,
As a last resort will just have to wait until I get to MOT & let them sort it out now that I have the travel mode working.
Hmmmm... Travel mode is key'd by ignition switch, soooo the level system must be always on... read somewhere about a battery fuse for HWH.... checked all the fuses I could find in the control boxes I think. Any ideas where it would be?
You should have 2 self resetting breakers hid in in the breaker panel that is behind the kick panel. (the removable panel in front of the passengers seat) Seems like the HWH is powered off # 11 and # 49. One of the breakers is on the buss that has power all the time and the other is on the switched side. No I don't remember which is which right off the top of my head. Even though these are made to be self reseating they do fail. Seems like they are both 10 amp.
Pamela & Mike
THANKYOU!!!
Yup found them,both have power so tomorrow will see if I can find out which pin on the HWH touch pad powers the leveling system.
I know that the "key'd one
should be the yellow wire at one end of the 5 pins, have a red and a drk green wires that are 16 ga. at the other end, and the rest are 18ga .
update
found them and now trying to figure out how to remove the left console to get to the terminal junction for wire # 7699 to 7699-A and wire 6121
Note to self..... just because you used to be skinny and could worm your way into tight areas does not mean that when you get older and somewhat rotund you will be able to back yourself out of where you put your head & shoulders...
Gave up. Will just wait and have MOT straighten this self made mess out.
When it gets too crazy it is worth it to pay someone who knows what they are doing to fix it. Hope they get you fixed up well and back on the road happy. ^.^d
Thnx, I just cannot get myself contorted enough to get to the electrical terminals with out tearing out most of the drivers side panel & left side of the dash..