It looks like the vertical sync has gone bad on the crt monitor.
I got a 7" lcd monitor and am in the process of swapping them out.
I was hoping to describe the process but the pictures are too confusing.
The key was that the plastic portions of the dash come off as a unit and the crt was not difficult to extract.
I would be happy to give the crt to anyone who thinks they can use it.
I suspect that it is a simple fix if you know what you are doing.
That leaves me out!!
So far I am using the OEM camera. I will eventually swap it out as well. The $35 E-Sky monitor looks like it will do what I want.
Make sure you send the finished pic and the monitor you used. We have the same rig and my Javelina works great to date ... but. .... one day will have to do! Thanks.
Save the regulated power supply from the old monitor and use it to power the new monitor.
Bill,
Thanks Bill. I used it as a test. You've convinced me to leave it in.
I assume you are talking about the box with fan that sounds like an airplane taking off when I first turn it on.
Slotted aluminum box in upper left of picture. It feeds the terminal block in the upper right.
Alan,
I got this monitor on Amazon
Amazon.com: [Upgrade with Image Reverse Function] Esky 7 inch TFT LCD Color... (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T2HDGIA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
When I first got it I hooked it up using the output from my cable box as the video feed.
Great color, worked fine.
It is a 7" and I will velcro it to the front of the dash covering the original hole.
One of these days I'll get a color camera to replace the OEM.
Sorry for dumb questions but will my OEM tank systems, etc still report via this?
Yes, they should......Mine do thru a Kenwood Pop-out screen stereo.
John
Has anyone ever found a monitor that fits correctly inside the dashboard? If I could find a 5" LCD monitor with 4:3 aspect ratio that fits perfectly and looks like it's supposed to I'd replace my monitor. Has anyone ever found a brand new CRT monitor that fits perfectly? I've searched several times over the years. I'm satisfied with a CRT monitor, color or black & white, but LCD would be nice too. I want it to look like it came from the factory.
I replaced my CRT with a used one from someone on this forum 4 years ago and it's still working great. Another forum member also sent me a used CRT and I'm carrying that one as a spare but I haven't needed it yet.
I made several useful modifications that I haven't written about yet because I want to test them longer. I fabricated sunscreens that fit around the monitor and over the camera. These seem to make a huge difference so far. The sun used to shine through the window right onto the monitor screen. I'd have to shade the screen with my hand to see anything. The sun also used to shine right into the camera lens causing the aperture to close from the glare. It was impossible to see anything when the sun was low in the sky and I was driving away from it. When driving under trees and bridges in the bright sun the camera's aperture would open and close constantly, sometimes closing completely so I couldn't see anything. Now the aperture stays steady all the time and I can drive directly away from the sun at its lowest point on the horizon and still see through the camera. There's glare from the road surface of course but it's not enough to prevent me from seeing. I previously installed a little 12 volt DC heater on the tube the camera is mounted in. In cold humid weather the heater works well to prevent fogging on the window the camera sees through. I used to have to remove the camera and stick a rolled up towel in the tube to wipe away the fog. A couple of hours later I'd have to do this all over again because the window kept fogging up repeatedly. I wrote about the 12 volt DC heater a couple of years ago and it's still working great. I also installed "real" backup and docking lights last year and wrote about those. They make a huge difference. I can back up in total darkness now and see through my camera and mirrors. It was really dangerous backing up in the dark before... Sorry to hijack your thread. :(
Try this link:
5" Lumenier LCD FPV Monitor (http://www.getfpv.com/5-lumenier-lcd-fpv-monitor.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gdffi=747627bc7e464db68e5f529d971aacf3&gdfms=8285230D836B49BBAB2BFBC10CA9FFE4&gclid=CjwKEAiAi-_FBRCZyPm_14CjoyASJAClUigO3mVbDbgZ6rWR9TL5bs1ynEfMWjCXf1WgR1eP3LuHwxoC7LXw_wcB)
John
Hello: 2002 U270 has anyone tried to modify or repair the stock OEM tank monitoring system 2u9 javaline. Tanks shows full red all the time, tried calibration by grounding #15 know help. I would like to keep the look & function of the stock system if all possible Thanks John
John,
If you have a bad transducer, they are replaceable. It could also be a wiring problem. Try contacting Javalina.
Rich
Just a comment from direct experience - Javalina does NOT want to hear from RVers. It seems there is a lot of bad blood there.
Replacement sensors are available from the Nac service locations. There is a calibration procedure to perform which requires filling and emptying all 3 tanks (because you can't calibrate just one tank at a time).
Just curious. Can you elaborate on that statement?
We called them a couple of years ago about something. The conversation went south as soon as we mentioned we had a Foretravel. We were advised they did not support RVs, had no parts, and to not call again.
hello: that just about sounds like my experience just recently. I was hoping that someone had monkeyed around with this so they were able to keep the same system in place, I do like how cool it looks on the screen. called parts @ foretravel nothing left in way of spare parts whatever happened between the two companies was not good thanks John
not to hijack this thread anymore what have you all used to replace this obsolete system suggestions please thanks John, P.S I have a lot of time to think about this as i am at sea for the next 45 days.
Finished the install today. I used 3M VHB double sided tape to stick the baseplate of the supplied stand across the back face of the cutout. (picture 1)
I then used industrial strength Velcro to fasten the monitor to both the baseplate and the sides of the cutout.
I connected the monitor power leads to the existing Javalina leads.
The tank level display looks great.
One of these days I'll see if I can get it to function.The fresh water display does show 1/4 just before it overflows.
A color camera should improve the view considerably.
Having problems downloading last picture
here it is
That's a nice write-up, Elliot. Good pics to boot! Your post boosted my confidence in tackling this project. P
Very helpful. I was thinking of a similar mounting strategy. My
Hank you. Photos helpful.