I was airing up the coach this morning at our site in the Elks Lodge in Prescott AZ RV park, I could hear air leaking from the right front airbag. There is a hole near the bottom where it creases when deflated. I've called the local Napa store and they are trying to locate airbags for me but as of yet no luck. They work with big trucking companies so they are reaching out to their contacts. We have to be out of the RV park tomorrow and was hoping for a little wisdom from you all on how to proceed. The coach will air up to travel height so I was wondering if I can put a 4x4 between the frame to move the coach. The over flow is available about 40 yards away. Our house is supposed to close today and is down the road about 8 miles. All of your wisdom is appreciated. Thank you for your help.
Greg
If the coach can attain travel height, the air compressor must be able to keep up with the leak. If you are only moving a short distance (to the park overflow, or even back to your house?) I would say just go ahead and move it. I would guess that a total "blow-out" failure of the bag is not too likely...but that's just a guess.
Agree, if it will air up, move within the park as is.
If leak is massive, yes, raise coach (air system or with suitable jack) and insert a block on that side-- both in front of and behind the offending wheel position so you don't torque suspension components.
I read on some posts abut using a tire plug from auto parts stores for temporary repair. Not sure if was on my Monaco Forum or this one.
It was my post. Jack your coach up (external jack) or use the HWH to raise and then block it up until the air bag is extended full length. Let air out of the bag. If the leak is facing the tire or in a good position, stick a tubeless plug in it. I carry a tubeless kit just for the occasion. Most leaks are slow leaks and can be driven until you get somewhere convenient to make the repair (or change the bag).
Lots of places will give two day service. Contitech Airbags are less than $80: AS9448 by CONTITECH - CONTITECH AIR SPRING 64286/1R11-150/8563 (https://www.finditparts.com/products/7889630/contitech-as9448)
Firestone bags are twice as much: Firestone Air Bags, Ride-Rite Air Spring Kits for Pickups (http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/suspension-air-bags/firestone-air-bag-kits) is a company I have used that provided two day delivery.
Pierce
Airbags leak from the folds because the coach is allowed to bottom out on the suspension while in winter storage. Blocking the coach up a bit will extend the life of the bags while in storage. Road debris along with winter chemicals don't do it any good either. Be very careful changing bags and review archives for DIY info.
Pierce
Thank you everyone for your quick replies. I really couldn't do it without this forum.
Pierce, is that part number you referenced above a good replacement for the firestone W01-358-9448?
Greg
Don't take my word but call them and cross reference it with them. Think everyone would like to know for sure. Continental makes excellent products.
Pierce
Greg,
I was just reading the Conti page that I sent the link in my post and it has cross referenced all the other brands at the bottom of the page. The Firestone is one of them.
Pierce
Hello all, finally got internet access at the new house. Thank you all again for the quick replies. I was able to air up to travel height and drove the 7 miles down the road to the house with know problems. I've ordered the Conti airbags and they should be here soon. I will report back on the fit and finish of the new airbags.
Thank you again
Greg
Greg,
There is a great article on changing air bags with
some tools they made just for the job. If I remember
correctly it was Pierce that posted that. Look in the
Forum search box.
Good luck,
Carter-
This is the link for my replacement.
Air bags (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28375.msg236145#msg236145)
Here are some of my photos. The special wrench is necessary and makes it easy without drilling any holes to loosen the one difficult nut on the top. The air jack is also a must for a million reasons. Will easily run off coach compressor. About $60 on sale or with coupon at HF. I did weld up a plate and wrench, tried them and then powder coated them. Several 1/2" extensions, a ratchet, safety blocks, Liquid Wrench and an air impact will speed the job. A very small 12V impact is just about as good as the air impact once you loosen the nuts. As you can see, the installation is a slam dunk. PM for some of the common tools needed or go to my old posts for tips.
Here is a link to a couple of absolutely indispensable tools. Available HD or less online: RIDGID 12-Volt Hyper Lithium-Ion Drill/Driver and Impact Driver Combo... (http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-12-Volt-Hyper-Lithium-Ion-Drill-Driver-and-Impact-Driver-Combo-Kit-R9000K/205358335) I use them almost every day on the coach or at the hanger. Buy the inexpensive impact sockets for them plus phillips drivers, etc. Other brands are just as good. The big battery lasts forever. These are small tools, not like the old heavy style.
Pierce
Pierce,what size is that wrench?
A couple of Pierce's posts on the subject:
Air bag leak (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=18144.msg123398#msg123398)
Air ride bag replacement number? (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=15678.msg97221#msg97221)
I watched a tech change air bags at Fourtravel. He never used a wrench to remove the nuts on the top bolts. He used a reciprocating saw between the air bag and the plate. Didn't take him long.
You can run the new nuts down with your finger. Very little wrench work to tighten them.
The wrench is 3/4"/19mm. As I recall, I had to use a couple of 12" extensions to allow me to lie on my back and use a ratchet/breaker bar to loosen the hard to reach nut. The 12 point box end allows the tool to be repositioned several times as you can only turn the nut a few degrees each time until it is loose enough to reach up and take off by hand with either a short wrench or with your fingers. Big hands and arms may require taking the Fiberglas skirt off as it's fairly tight when you reach up there.
Can't remember why I put an angle on the wrench in relation to the socket. Check before you do. Wish they made a long Crow's Foot.
Depending on the rust/corrosion, it's really good to use your favorite Liquid Wrench type lube ahead of time to soak in and ease the nut removal. Some may be really easy, others more difficult. The big nut on the air supply stud is pretty straight forward but may require more force. The bottom nuts come off quickly and with an air gun, it's a 15 second job for both.
The new air bags don't arrive with fittings. I purchased stainless nuts/washers for all. Not a bad idea to have a couple of the brass air fittings available in case the old ones don't come right off. Make sure the brass fitting is in the exact same position as the air fitting/hose has to be carefully aligned to thread on. It will go on with your fingers most of the way. Don't cross thread or you will be sorry. The flange at the top should be spotless so there is no chance of dirt getting into any of the air bag threads so you can run the nuts down with your fingers and have to use the wrench the minimum about of time.
The first couple of air bags I installed, I used a special made tool to separate the frame members so the bag would fit. I had to put my knee on the bag, compress it, put the plastic plug on the air stud and then quickly install it before it expanded. The air jack makes the bag a very relaxed installation with only several seconds from outside the coach to fitted in place. If you use two jacks, one on each side, the coach won't be twisted if that is a concern. Make sure the coach is blocked and on a level surface so it won't move. With both rear duals off the ground, you have no brakes. That would be bad!
Since the coach rectangular tubing does not allow for much error in air bag stud alignment, I recommend installing all nuts hand tight until you are sure your wrenches will clear the tubing. Thin wall sockets or box ends are the tool here. Open ends will work but I didn't want to round a nut in case it was frozen in place.
The white "kitty litter" containers make a good storage spot for the new bags if you keep a spare bag on board. The wrenches/tools will also fit inside.
With all ducks in a row, a carpet to put your head on, safety goggles for the falling dirt and some music (no country western here :D ), it can be fun, not frustration.
Regarding the last post, I don't use a saw to remove the old nuts/studs as it leaves a nice fresh exposed surface for rust to start on the flanges. That would also require taking the skirts off. Take a little more time and do it right without the saw.
Pierce
I think Imperial ac tools makes a racheting wrench in 3/4 that would wrap 360 degrees around the nut.
Something like the tool in the photo would be perfect but would still need to be shortened unless the Fiberglas skirt is removed. Otherwise, there is not room for the length. With the tool shortened, more effort is required as the shorter distance between the nut and your hand does not generate the same force on the nut. This was why I welded on a socket so I could apply the necessary force from underneath. Once it has been loosened just a bit, you can use the tool directly with your hand up top.
Other option would be to just weld on a nut to the wrench and they you would just need a socket from below.
Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive set where one could be sacrificed. Downside is you have to flip them over to go the other direction. Perhaps better to spend a little more for one with a directional switch on it so it could be used to tighten also without flipping it over.
Good post on the ratchet. Anything to make it a little easier. Again, this is just for the one location. Other top nuts remove easily with any conventional box end as there is lots of room.
Pierce
On coach's that allow this removing the fibre glass fender is so simple and makes this job less frustrating plus the added benefit of being able to clean up surrounding area and check other things, along with painting frame.
I really cannot see why so many do not want to do this. I have full body paint and every time I remove panels they go back exactly the same place and no one but me knows they have been off.
DWMYH I guess, but I still shake my head.
JohnH
Quite right John. The last owner put a heavy coat of sealer on the panels so removing them is a bigger pain. After we do a paint job, (number 1001 on the "to do" list), I may just do that. But I will never do a "muffler shop" Sawzall attack on the air bag fasteners. Other than that, I just don't find it that difficult to R&R but with the palm sized 12V impact/screwdriver, doing a quick removal of a row of shiny stainless screws is getting another look.
How anyone could shake their heads when their currency is called a "loonie" is beyond me. :)) :)) :)) :))
Pierce
Where can I purchase that short ratchet tool ?
Just going to start assembling the tools slowly so the DW doesn't notice!
Found one on amazon
I used a 1/2" drive flex ratchet to break the hard to reach nuts loose then switched to 3/8" air ratchet to finish. This is just what worked on a '99 u320
I need to edit my post #15.
He used a wrench on the nut for a few turns to get a gap between the airbag plate and the mounting plate for the saw blade to go in, then cut off the bolts.
How long can the handle be on the flex ratchet?
Also, what are the prospects of removing the nuts on the bottom of the bag and using a sawzall to cut away the rubber bag up top, right next to it's metal mounting plate, removing the bag and attacking the bolts from underneath?
Tman,
The bolts are actually studs that are made into the mounting plate. The route you are talking about would give you extra room for you to reach around and remove the hid nuts but you still have to be able to access the new bags studs to be able to tighten the nuts.
Pamela & Mike
Short!
If you give the top nuts a shot of your favorite "liquid wrench," a day or so ahead or even an hour before, the top nuts come off pretty easily. I did it without removing anything (need small hands) but with the Fiberglas out of the way, it's a still easier job. I put new stainless nuts and washers on. Air fitting was brass so just wire wheeled it. There are only a couple of nuts that are tough to get to as I remember. Was sort of a fun job.
Pierce
Removal seems the hardest. I had thought of a small hole saw to drill out the studs from the bottom with bag removed.
With coach raised on stands is it just a matter of capping the air line to the bag I'm replacing to keep the slide bladders
inflated?
You could do that or if your line numbers are the same as mine (might be since we both have 2003's) you can cap line 57 coming out of the aux compressor. Then the aux comp can still provide air to the bladders. This procedure will remove air supply from all airbags via the aux comp. The airbags could still get air from the front and rear tank if you don't dump the air there too.