Im reworking the right side dash panel of my 1998. And replacing the Javelina CRT for a Double Din dvd player with 7-8" screen. With this I'm going to rebuild the aluminum dash panel on the right hand side to support and fit the new Radio.
(https://www.foreforums.com/imagecache.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi220.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd131%2FIDMLLC%2Fth_IMG_9289.jpg&hash=2a17123182eec7defb0a5b9476fa2c43" rel="cached" data-hash="2a17123182eec7defb0a5b9476fa2c43" data-warn="External image, click here to view original" data-url="http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd131/IDMLLC/th_IMG_9289.jpg) (http://s220.photobucket.com/user/IDMLLC/media/IMG_9289.jpg.html)
So after removing all of the switches and such there is one item remaining on the panel.
And its the question of the day!!
What in the thing that is glued to the back of the dash close to the ignition switch? (see Bottom pic)
I ended up braking it off. So its vary important I'm SOL!!
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Thanks for you tim and help with my project.
Bryce
Isn't that an electroluminescent dash? If so, be careful modifying any of the openings (especially cutting for a double DIN) as you can easily render it permanently "non-electroluminescent".
'98 Unicoach Dashpanel modification (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=30065.0) (among others)
I suspect that is the AC power connection for your electroluminescent panel.
Trent
Michelle and Trent are correct. Once you cut the dash, you won't be able to plug it back in without that dash section shorting out.
Edit: I'm actually surprised it was plugged in when you got it since it looks like someone has/had enlarged one of the cigarette lighter holes on the right side of the dash and I would have guessed that would have shorted the dash panel.
Ahhh got it.. Makes perfect sense now. I don't think it ever worked so didn't know thats what the dash has for Lighting. It looked to me when i pulled it off as just a potted LED, I will verify it in a day or so.
Thanks for your input!! I have only had it a year or so. So figuring out stuff as i go.
Will post more pics as I go.
Robert,
I am not an expert on electroluminescent panels, but I am curious and have done some research. It is my understanding that you can make some cuts without destroying the electoluminescence. For example, if you had a 2" x 2" pad somewhere on your panel, you could drill a hole in the middle of it, without changing the electrical properties. The problem is knowing where the traces (think printed circuit board) run. The bigger hole you cut, the better your chance of destroying the electric circuit.
My research is still on the back burner, because there are so many other things that need to get taken care of first. The standard advice is not to make any cuts in the panels; yet they come to us with many holes in them.
In reality, I very seldom drive at night, so I don't usually see the lighted panels anyway. If you screw up, not many people will ever know.
Caveat emptor!
Trent
So I have a electronics and robotics Bs Deg. as well as being a MFG Engineer, so thats why I tore right into this thing not even thinking. And yes one of the owners before me cut into the dash with a hole saw to add a clock. i pealed back the membrane/sticker top sheet to find the tracings destroyed. Truly not a big deal in my book. I will do a updated system with a backlit film. I have built a few dashes for some hotrod buddys and have done things like this. Will be using a bit thicker Aluminum to help with some weak structure as well. I will be redoing the other 2 panels down the road as well. Updating the air ride system with a modern system. at this point I will make the dash look close to original with graphic outlines and such but will move the switches a bit to better use the space for upgrades down the road.
When did Foretravel install this type of dash, was it an option?
Any pictures of what it looks like when activated?
I never thought of checking to see if I have this. I cant even see the controls on my dash at night with the small lights that are supposed to illuminate the switches and controls.
Search is your friend ;) Every year there's something new... (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=11300.msg55729#msg55729)
Thanks, I was all excited that there was something I didn't know I had.
I can calm down now.
1997 for the dash. The dash lights probably need refreshing/cleaning of the bulbs?
The electroluminescent is , pardon my slang, a trip.
As I am an old Foretravel guy with orange/brown stripes in my blood the 97u320 makes me have a grin that's hard to wipe off my face.
Enough of trip I do not want to damage the dash panels.
The bigger hole probably killed it a while ago
I believe it the dash air temperature sensor, like just the one on my 2001 dash.
ok Im going with a Alpine X009U Has a 9" screen. Im not making this a backlit dash because I'm pressed foretime:) I have a month to get the dash done and change out the frig for a residential unit. The dash lighting will be like a aircraft style dash lighting using LED's. I will be redoing the dash completely at a later date so won't spend a lot of time this go around. I will try to post a pic of the computer model of the dash layout in a day or 2.
Ok been busy so here are some pics of all the projects currently going on. This includes the Refrig replacement and reworking the Old tv cabinet above driver.
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So this is the new dash panel with opening for Alpine head dvd nav unit. the other alum pc is a support bracket that will hold up the back of the stereo.
Some pics of the TV cabinet rework. But first I cleaned out the rats nest of wires from all the old systems that have been installed in the past. Im reusing the wood from the original tv box to make endcaps for the shortened cabinets. Im centering a 40" lcd tv. so there will be one cabinet one each side of the tv. I have added a aluminum support right of center line to add structure for the new tv mount. I welded flanges on it and riveted it to the upper and lower crossmembers. I glued the first endcap on the right side this evening. I had to do all the cutting and gluing with the remainder of the right side cabinet in place because i could not take it apart without damaging it. Took some time and used a Japanese handsaw to make the cut from the bottom to the top of the cabinet.
Will post some more pics of the first endocarp without clamps soon.
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Interesting project, Bryce! You are presenting some fresh new cabinet remodel ideas and techniques that I haven't seen before. Nice clear photo documentation and description. These are the kind of reports that add much value to the Forum. Well done!
Next time you take a break from your labors, you might update your coach info on your profile page, and add it to your signature. It makes your reports more relevant if everyone can easily tell exactly what coach year/model you are working on.
Bryce,
The remodel looks great! Consider installing a toggle switch in line with the Alpine's power wire so you can fully turn off the unit, or quickly (and easily) reboot it while driving.
We have an X008U Alpine unit (with screen) installed by a previous owner. The installer wired it to the coach house batteries, and not through the ignition switch to the starting batteries. The unit does not fully power off. When turned off it goes into stand-by mode. It is a power hog when dry camping or in storage.
I also found that the unit needs to be reset periodically - like a computer.
I installed a toggle switch (in the dash) on the wire leading from the unit to the coach house batteries. This allows the power to be completely shut off to the unit. And it also allows a quick and easy way to reset the unit.
Chris