WTFE floor plan, kitchen is on driver's side.
I have a hole vacated by the original fan control that I'd like to use for a battery monitor. I can drill a hole from either storage or battery bay up into and under the kitchen sink cabinet. I can "grudgingly" remove the bottom of the kitchen sink cabinet and lay wire along the outside wall. It's getting the wire up into the wall between the microwave and refrigerator that is stumping me. I do not want to remove the fridge just to run a wire along side it. Can anyone help?
I've noticed some members have put one on the side of the kitchen drawers but my DW leans up against that side when watching tv.
On a similar note. Is there a chase along the floor on the passenger side. I don't want to pull up the carpet unnecessarily because I'll never get it back the same way.
Thanks
Ed
Ed, yes there is a chase on that side right up against the wall in floor. If you have carpet you can pull it up and see the panel that covers it.
On the wall between fridge and micro- it is hollow and take the vent off below the cook top and then feed a wire puller down thru the hole to this vent access when it can then be fed under the floor of cabinets ( these ply bases are screwed on) so all doable just a bit of messing around.
JohnH
Ed, I did about the same.
What did you do to your coach today v (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=27240.msg236019#msg236019)
Maybe this helps. You will probably want a wire puller to make it easier.
On our 99', the wall between the fridge and the counter/microwave area had some of the rigid blue styrofoam insulation between the fridge and the paneling where the Kool-O-Matic controls are. As I recall, that wall also had a number of framing bits backing the paneling in areas needing reinforcement. I can't remember for sure if there might have been some pathway for wiring to run down, but the the Kool-O-Matic wiring ran up into the overhead area. Here is a picture that I took while putting in a shelf support to frame in a drawer area that is sealed from the outside. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures higher up the wall on that side...
Don
John H, Found the passenger side chase thanks. Nice write up Roger, but I dread having to pull the fridge. I never told you I had to go out and buy another tablet but I finally got the VMSPC working. Thanks for trying to help last fall. Don, that is what I found behind that wall and there is only about an inch or so for the Trimetric 2030A flush mounted without a box. Plus with all the framing in that wall my wire puller would bend up not down. I could see it above the fridge cooling fins by looking down the vent on the roof.
I like K.I.S.S and I already have the stupid part down pat. ;D So instead of the Trimetric, (which would have filled the hole in my fridge wall nicely) I will purchase the Victron 700 that I see Roger installed. I have room near the existing Magnum Remote Control. After pulling a few panels I see it will be much easier to pull the wire to that location. From the driver side battery compartment over to the passenger side wet bay, then drill a hole straight up behind the cabinet behind the toilet, up to the ceiling and thru an existing hole to the cabinet where the rest of the meters are living.
Some one might notice I mentioned Magnum and I did purchase the Magnum BMK based on their documentation that states it would work with "any" Magnum inverter with a data port. My MS 2012 has a data port. But Magnum tech replied to an email advising I would need a new board for the inverter $250 and a new remote control $160. $400 in addition to the $130 I paid for the BMK. Almost $550 just for a battery monitor. I'll put it on eBay or craigs list.
I wanted to mention to Roger the Victron 700 series battery monitor he installed has a bluetooth dongle and an IPhone app that allows you to read the meter straight from your phone. Not sure if you knew about it. Android app also.
Ed
Ed, Yup, I have that. Very nice.
Lance, the 110v wiring and a bunch more goes through the wall into the space above the microwave from the refrigerator space. You may be able to get to that pass through from the refrigerator vent on the roof. You probably don't have to move the refrigerator, there should be an inch or more behind the refrigerator. I moved my res refrigerator because it was easy to do, release the foot locks and rolled it out 6" or so.