I decided to put this under its own heading to keep things simple. Yesterday I removed the fan blades, using a breaker bar and an air impact wrench. Next, I removed the nut from the center of the hub before attaching a puller I bought from Harbor Freight years ago (photo). With the puller, it came off pretty easy. The dark area is from the penetrating oil, not a leak. I took a number of photos of the motors with brackets, before I took them apart - I will need them for reference when putting it back together. Today, I'm sanding down the brackets and prepping them for paint. In the next day or so, I will empty the hydraulic reservoir and try to remove the hoses - again, more photos and colored tape with notes. I would never remember how it all goes back.
I used the air impact wrench for all the nuts and bolts.
Just a thought, maybe go back with new bolts? Also, if you are going
to replace the hydraulic oil Tractor Supply has had it on sale, if you have
one of their stores near you.
Carter-
His hyd. system uses Delo 15/40 or equivalent.
I plan on replacing all the bolts with stainless - Lowe's seems to have a good supply.
Careful on stainless they are not as strong as a medium strength steel bolt.
Any marks on the old bolt heads?
Get a jar of anti-seize and do every nut and bolt.
Use Grade 5 or 8, they will work fine, John is right about anti-sieze. Stainless is pretty and does not rust; but it is soft (think peanut butter) some stainless is harder than others, just not the off the shelf ones.
John
Bear in mind that stainless steel is more reactive with aluminum (assuming motors are aluminum frame) than carbon steel. I'd use never-seize rated for aluminum and steel bolts instead.
Grade eight are brittle.
Generally speaking correct, but not always true... ARP 300 series stainless are stronger than grade 8 (180,000 psi vs 170,000 psi). These are primarily what I used on my basement rebuild project (about 76 of them give or take).
Don
That's all Caterpillar used in heavy equipment
Could not use grade eights to hold a scattershield over a clutch long ago as the flywheel failure hitting them sideways would cause them to break. Long ago. Too long ago maybe
Bob,
I would use grade 8 bolts if I were repairing a lawn mower. They are too close in price to
a grade 5. I try to fix someting and forget it. I have built and rebuilt machinery over the years and
can not remember a single failure of a grade 8, properly used. As far as the point of being brittle
I remembered a hand out I had in a course that debunked the brittle aspect and since it is not a
copyrighted item I am attaching it.
Carter-
I've also heard the argument that grade 8's are more brittle than grade 5's and that's why you shouldn't use them. Well, first you need to understand what the term "brittle" really means. Brittleness in bolts is defined as failure at stresses apparently below the strength of the bolt material with little or no evidence of plastic deformation. Typically, fasteners are not brittle below 180 ksi ultimate tensile strength. Grade 5's have an ultimate tensile strength of 120 ksi and a grade 8 fastener has an ultimate tensile strength of 150 ksi. This is why brittle is a relative term. Nearly all fasteners are considered ductile except some made from PH 15-6 Mo, 17-4 PH and 17-7 PH
Kool just remembering my old NHRA rule book.
No supertainium either in racing then.
The stainless will be probably work great.
What did Foretravel use oem?
I am using grade 8 for flywheel, scattershield, torque convertor and bellhousing.
Mr. Gasket Flywheel and Pressure Plate Bolts | JEGS (http://www.jegs.com/p/Mr-Gasket/Mr-Gasket-Flywheel-and-Pressure-Plate-Bolts/748892/10002/-1)
Mr. Gasket Flywheel and Pressure Plate Bolts | JEGS (http://www.jegs.com/p/Mr-Gasket/Mr-Gasket-Flywheel-and-Pressure-Plate-Bolts/748892/10002/-1)
My concern about the strength of bolts has more to do with shear strength vs torque. I would not think a great deal of strength would be required to hold the fan brackets (frame) in place. Rather than use anti-seize, I'm more likely to use Loctite, since I would not anticipate having to disassemble them again. I could also go with steel bolts and use rubberized undercoating.
Blue loktite(242) is what I would use on cleaned or new bolts and retapped holes then brake cleaned then blown out with air pressure
Can be disassembled later
A trick a Cat mechanic told me was to use clear finger
nail polish if you could not find anything else.
Carter-