We are working our way back to our summer place in Maine, and will be visiting some friends and relatives on the way there. My concern is that we are debating whether we can, or should, park our 33,000# coach on their concrete or asphalt driveways. These are typically 4" thick, and I dread the thought of busting up a concrete drive or leaving some deep grooves in asphalt. Any thoughts or experience with this issue?? Thanks, again
I would stay off their driveways, or ask the homeowner what he thinks. Some may be constructed to take the weight, but mine isn't.
When we visit our relatives in Ventura, CA we park in the street in front of their house. We call the local police dept. ahead of time, and they issue a "verbal permit" that allows "over-size" vehicle parking for up to 7 days - after that they can issue a ticket. We actually had a cop come by and check on us (one time). He was very friendly - mostly interested in looking at our classic coach. No hassle whatsoever...
Of course, the neighbors might not be too pleased, especially if curbside parking is popular/necessary in a particular residential area.
When we stay with our aunt up in Sun City, AZ, there is NO street parking. We can park for a few days in her driveway, but the HOA has strict rules about "settling in". The way to not be invited back is to have any fluid leaks onto someone's pristine drive. ^.^d
I poured our pad 4" thick and the U300 lives there when not traveling. It's just a 5 sack mix with rebar so nothing unusual. This was what the concrete company recommended. You might ask if their pad has rebar in the concrete.
Hot weather and asphalt may not be good depending on the thickness, etc. Might be better to be conservative.
Pierce
When we visit friend orfamily we eather park in the yard or street. If those are not available we stay at a nearby CG. Most res driveways won't stand the weight of our coaches especially near the edges.
I had some cuttoffs of 18" wide x 1-3/4" thick LVL beam material. An 18" square under the front tires and a 36" piece under the rears will distribute the load. But that is a lot of lumber to haul around. I got mine free at a construction site. 18" length is pretty common, 36" long means somebody ordered the wrong size.
I have not had any issues with concrete. Asphalt on the other had does groove if it is hot enough. I had two track marks in my old house from where I would back in and drive out. It took years though. The 4 inches is enough it is the 2-3 inches that I worry about if it was done on the cheap.
"Thanks for letting us park in your driveway, we'll be backing out now."
Pull into an asphalt driveway in the summer--hot or not--with your tires hot from driving on the highway and you will definitely leave some "witness" marks in the asphalt where you turned the front wheels while sitting still. (Don't ask!)
put some solid boards down.
Where there is frost and freezing temps, the ground under the concrete becomes unstable and without a firm base the concrete will crack. Out west it's hardly a problem, but up north, I wouldn't take the chance.
It's a tough call. Driveway asphalt is more tar and less stone than road asphalt. It looks pretty. I have seen some really pretty asphalt driveways done by fly by night guys and it's only 1 inch thick on top of topsoil. Concrete is kind of the same mess you can't see the prep but you could dig down along the edge and see how thick it is.
Our coach sits on the top pad of pit. It is 8" thick with a LOT of rebar and mesh. I do not mickey mouse around when building, usually well over what is needed even in framing etc.
I found years ago it costs very little extra to do it better than what is actually needed because if it breaks or? the cost of fixing takes the original cost way up there.
If I was doing a new driveway it would be 6" plus mesh.The sub base is the main part for supporting the pad. We are on 100% sand so soaking and packing it was the way to go.
JohnH
Total crapshoot somewhat, when it comes to thickness of concrete more than 4" for a driveway, with rebar or wwf. 6" may be overkill, If the sub-base of sand and/or gravel that it is resting on, is bearing on is compacted soil. All concrete is guarantied to crack so they put in weak spots called control joints to somewhat hide the cracks. Very few if any residential contractors will compact the soil, and the city building code inspectors you pay for, inspect nothing. So parking on the street may be advised.
Several years ago --eight-- , I visited an old retired Navy friend in Mississippi , just a few miles south of Memphis , Tennessee . He has a fairly new home with a nicely curved ,laid out concrete driveway . I told him that the coach was heavy and I probably should park on the side . He said not to worry as big trucks deliver here all the time , so come on and park here . I did and it broke his concrete all to pieces . Had to by hand remove several chunks that were standing on end that didn't want to chance driving back over to exit . No rebar or mesh of any type . Had to have a small load of crushed stone delivered to fill in the large gaps where I sunk in as I passed over them . The ground there is soft and damp . Not a good day to say the least . This was in our 2006 40 ft. Phenix which weighs a bit less than our present coach . ??? ??? ??? Brad Metzger
Thanks for all the response....
I think I will go for parking in the street or a campground.
I want to be invited back!!!
If you really need to park on a driveway, as I do almost everyday with my crane. Use 4'x8' 3/4 plywood to protect concrete, bricks etc. I make the contractor aware when I take the job if I must set up on a residential driveway. Commercial ones have never failed in my experience.
We also used plywood when moving heavy loads on blacktop roads. Up to 800+ tons.