I'm still doing the final hook ups and detailing after installing the radiator and found that I am not getting any power past the built in surge protector. There are no code read outs at the foot of the bed (no lights, nothing). I am able to detect current at the input, but not at the output side. I used the generator last week for a few hours which lit up the cabinet monitor, but now the generator is not coming on for more than about 10 seconds. There seems to be no end to the issues. Lots of money spent, but very little camping done here. Yes, I'm frustrated.
Does the generator eventually come on? Does the inverter power up? I understand your flustration, hang in there I'll come togather.
Sven,
Are you plugged into shore power?
If so unplug and try the generator.
I have tried the generator, as mentioned. After numerous starts, it sputters and stalls. Seems clear that it is a fuel problem (I have a Kubota tractor that has never had an issue). I changed both fuel filters six months ago and have only turned it on for exercise. Right now, the surge protector is my main concern.
I don't know which surge protector you have, but what is the incoming voltage? Maybe to high, or to low or possible ground or neutral fault.
If you need to run the generator to trouble shoot, disconnect the inlet fuel line at the generator and drop a hose into a container of fuel. That was what I did to determine leaking fuel line pulling air. Can't help on surge protector as our '99 didn't come with one.
The error code window would normally indicate the problem, but it doesn't light up. I'll give Progressive a call tomorrow.
Do you have a shore cord power reel. The slip rings in the power reel can cause a lot of problems. Sometimes you have power sometimes not depends how far out the cord has been pulled. Just a thought.
No, despite it being a u320, it does not have a reel.
Long shot. I had the same problem when I installed the Progressive Industries unit in our current rig. I had power on the incoming side of the EMS but nothing from the other. It turned out to be a defective remote unit - the little box that displays the data. Changed remotes and it worked fine.
jor
* I think it also worked without the bad remote connected.
Situation resolved, sorta. I called Prog. Indust. and a tech had me check the voltage between the different lugs inside the box. Everything seemed to check out with voltage around 117-118. He then suggested that the problem might be the adapter between the 30A and 50A cords, so we did similar voltage tests between the four contacts (everything correct). I plugged it back in and could hear the solenoid click. Checked inside the rig and saw the both displays on and the ATS humming as it should.
I like that it was working, but am unsettled because we did not find the cause. Tech was sure it had to be something in my power source, but that didn't explain how there was power at the suppressor box or why the small display was not lit. Any ideas or just a gremlin?
Good news is that the batteries are now charging after being disconnected for weeks. Hopefully, they will accept a full charge.
Are the blades on you power cord and adapter clean and shiny? Maybe your removal and installing corrected a corrosion problem.
The adapter is new, and the male end of the 50A cord is clean. I don't think that would be the problem, especially since it was showing voltage at the surge protector.
Now that it is working you can't trouble shoot anymore at this time. But I have read voltage on contacts and thought I was getting a good connection but turned out it wouldn't carry a load. Jumped to a 120 volt fan and nothing, wiggled the connector and it started working. Evidently the volt meters don't need any amperage.
Voltage readings can be very misleading. A surface charge showing 13v+ can drop considerably with a load. We used to test a car battery by attaching a voltmeter and cranking the starter (with distributer rotor removed) for ten seconds. The observed the drop in voltage and time it took to recover would indicate the condition of the battery. With a wet cell battery, you the hydrometer was reliable. I use a load tester now, but it would not work on the 8Ds we have, I'm sure.
When I started charging yesterday, I checked the Prosine monitor and saw that it was drawing 50A (demand), but showing 13.75v after being disconnected for three weeks. This morning showed same voltage, but no amps flowing. I then hit the boost switch to charge the starting batteries and the demand shot up again to around 40A.