We always stay at 50 amp pedestals, so never have a concern, get spoiled, and stupid. This site, 30 amps, we liked a lot, had the EMS (which works on 30 amp) plugged-in and settled down. Had the rear roof air on max, fridge on power. We have a toaster oven and went to heat-up some leftovers. Just happened to look at our meter, and WOW! Blew nothing, but shut-down that air right now!
Something to remember, I will. ^.^d
did the EMS not work?
I use our EMS and a autoformer on any 30 amp
I looked at the EMS after the "scare", it had no memory of a episode. I skated. If I'd had a few more watts on the oven, who knows?
What scare did you have?
Looking at our "Powerwatch' meter, I showed a reading going below 110v., not much, not enough to trip anything, but freaked me out! At 30 amps, with proper application, it will stay at 115v with the fridge on., unlike 50 amps, where 120 volts is the norm.
110 is fine. You would appreciate the autoformer. Trades amps for volts
No near miss. 110v or even a few below is common and fine. Wont hurt a thing, especialy not running a toaster for a minute. Youll trip a breaker or ems, long before a near miss.
120 VAC plus/minus 10% is pretty well the universally acceptable range for voltage. So, 108- 132 VAC. Sure, closer to 120 VAC is preferred.
I think the EMS cutout is 104 volts. The Hughes autoformer changes amps to more volts very well.
At 110 I would not hook up the autoformer normally.
Dinner time here in big bear is when the volts drop and the help from the unit is needed.
Thanks, all, I knew I was close to something going wrong. All one has to happen, is have a "near meltdown" that takes out all cable ends and the ATS. After that scare, and a CB+ to fix it, I got a EMS and keep a close eye on the Powerwatch. Nothing like a "fire in the hole" to make one paranoid, especially in old parks. ^.^d
Something to consider. I've added the Progressive Dynamics EMS to two coaches. In both cases the EMS voltage readings were always different than the Powerwatch. I'll put my money on the accuracy of the EMS.
jor
Me too. A mistake I made was not installing the EMS on board, with a wall-mount display. I have checked the Powerwatch with my high-end Fluke VOM, and it's pretty close, though. It's like wi-fi, when parks start filling up, and demand increases, the "drain" comes quick, and I keep a close eye on my PW. ^.^d
I just checked to see if my 50 amp Progressive EMS protects against an overload and it does not. That is the job of the circuit breaker at the post if plugged in since none of the normal loads in the coach would pop a breaker in the coach. Combined they could pop a 30 amp breaker at the post though, but that would be all that would happen and not much cause for alarm. Doubt if any of us would ever pop a 50 amp breaker, unless you have an all electric coach with 5 AC's on the roof and everything on. It is good though to keep track of how much power can be used to prevent low voltage conditions and a walk outside to reset the breaker. An EMS is a great device to have as it can protect against a lot of things that a breaker does not, especially low voltage in a park that is not adequately wired.
Hmm, Our EMS-PT 50C says, "When AC power deviates below 104 volts or above 132 volts, the EMS automatically shuts down power to the RV."
On my 320 it shut it down one night and the error code indicated too high voltage.
jor
When I said overload, I meant amps. My EMS does the same as yours for high and low voltage. Shuts off power to the coach until it is seeing an acceptable voltage and the delay has been satisfied then restores power. EMS's do have an amp rating which is the max amperage that should flow through the EMS. If you have a 50 amp cord you should have a 50 amp rated EMS.
EMS keeps off for power for two minutes after a low or high voltage shutoff if memory serves me.
If I use both the progressive and autoformer the autoformer is first as I just want the power fixed to the limit of the units capacity.
If the autoformers limits are exceeded then the EMS will shut down the circuit.
Original post " Ac on high, fridge on Ac, battery charger on, toaster oven on" might be a bit much for 30! Just thinking out loud
I use the built in from Foretravel power consumption gage that is under the powerwatch. Seems to work well.
Obviously load shedding is needed at times, I have had a gen breaker open from load before.
Put in new breakers and watch the load better