I just got off the phone with a Meritor rep. He looked for over five minutes for my front axle info after I gave him the model number and finally said to use straight 80-90 weight oil. He didn't sound real sure and from what I've read here most use 80/140.
I don't know whether I have dino or synthetic in the front and rear axles at present. I would like to run synthetic but don't want to put the wrong oil in as dino and synthetic don't mix. I don't mind tipping the rear axle to allow the tubes to drain so I can use synthetic,
but what about the front wheel oil? How much work is it to pull the hubs and clean out all the old oil?
Also, is there a way to tell what's in there now, short of sending a sample to a testing lab?
Normally the front hub oil doesn't need changing except at bearing service. You would have to remove the wheel to get all the oil out. Removing the whole bearing cover will remove most of it though if you were to lean it. Call FT and ask what was installed at the factory.
This is what I use in my steer hubs on m semi truck. When time to service RV I will switch to thus also. My Hub oil in RV looks brand new.
Hub Oil (https://lucasoil.com/products/heavy-duty-trucking/lucas-hub-oil)
I use 80-90 synthetic.
And my "method of change" is a bit different, because as craneman said, you can not easily get all the old oil out.
I use an old (ya, 50 years old) transmission suction pump through the large fill hole to remove all I can. Overfill with new oil. Drain again. Fill to proper level. Drive it. Next convenient time, repeat. Each "procedure" takes only 4-5 minutes and, unless there is a problem with the bearings (like metal, water or other contaminant in the oil), I am comfortable with the process.
Will they tell me? I'm not a member of anything except this forum.
Regarding the Stemco hub cap, I haven't removed the wheel cover yet to have a look, but if I want/need to replace the Stemco's is there a part number on them?
Is this a good deal with $13.00 for freight?
Mobil Delvac Syn Gear Oil 80W140 (PAIL) (http://thelubricantstore.com/mobil-delvac-syn-gear-oil-80w140-pail.html)
Brett,
Essentially Gear Oil (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LUC0/10043/N2367.oap?ck=Search_N2367_-1_-1&pt=N2367&ppt=C1985) like this one correct?
T-Man I think when i changed the Stemco hub cap on my last FT, I was able to locate it from a local truck parts store with a part number that was visible on the original. looks like this :https://www.peterbiltparts.com/wheels-hubs/hub-caps-gaskets-accessories/hub-caps/340-4009?gclid=CKLOh7yNndQCFQuraQodenQGqQ
My mistake. I don't think I need any hubcaps, maybe just the red plugs. Do they have a part number or is it a "match-up" at the parts counter?
I have removed the wheel covers and the oil looks good, not milky and to the full mark. At what mileage is the bearing service due?
Foretravel's recommended maintenance interval for changing the oil in the front hubs is yearly. Our 1998 U-320 has hubs with part number 343-4024.
The red plugs are the following part number:
STE 359-5990
The gaskets that go between the wheel and the oil hub are the following part number:
STE 330-3009
The oil bath hub bolts for this model are 5/16 and require 12-16 ft/lbs of torque to seat the hub against the gasket and wheel.
Chris
Can I get most of the old oil out and then just add the Lucas to fill?
Spec sheet says it blends with synthetic which I probably don't have.
You can jack up one side or drive up on some ramps say on your left side get as much tilt as reasonably possible you will need front and rear blocks so you don't twist coach. Remove the hubcap bolts and let it drain out. You will need new hubcap gaskets reinstall hubcap.put coach back level and full hub up to the line.it is going to take awhile but oil level will drop as it goes into the hub.then refill. Repeat for other side. Keep an eye on levels and adjust as necessary.When time to do seals etc hubs are removed oil completly drained bearings washed and inspected re oiled and reassembled hub is filled some before putting it on the spindle and outer bearing is put in place.
I also removed the front hub caps, seeing no use for them. I'd prefer to be able to check my hub oil daily when on the road - old habit from driving fire engines.
From the Eaton Service manual
100,000 Miles or Annual Inspection
For non-driven axles check lubricant level and condition. If
lubricant is contaminated replace old lubricant with the same
type lubricant. If lubricant condition is good and level is low,
fill to the proper level. Check for any signs of leakage at the
seal or hubcap gasket areas. Check for oil soaked brake linings.
For driven axles, check for any signs of leakage at the seal or
axle flange gasket areas. Also check for leaks at hub fill hole if
so equipped. Check for oil soaked brake linings.
Take appropriate action if leaks or oil soaked brake linings are
noted.
We out a center hole in our front hub caps using a hole saw. And I lean over and look at the oil level before every trip. And when one side of ground is lower, it is interesting to see one hub low and the other hub too full.
The little red caps are the only vent point. Using the hub caps may reduce water intrusion.
Hubba-Hubba!
When I refer to hub cap I am talking about the plastic hub cover with the red plug in it. Chrome decorative hub caps will not pose any issues. The hubcap has a gasket that seals the oil in. That metal plug in the picture above is for electrical conduit box holes.
Hub Caps | STEMCO (http://www.stemco.com/products/wheel-end-products/hub-caps/) ::)
All synthetic oils blend with dino oils. You do not need to worry about contamination. Note how many engine oils are actually blends. Don't bother trying to get all the old oil out unless the oil is contaminated.
At the frequency I change my oil I've always been a dino guy, with no knowledge of synthetics. But, when I spoke with the Meritor rep
the other day he told me they would not mix. Since then, with the forum's input and some reading I've found out otherwise. Apparently the only downside to mixing the two is a reduced life for the synthetic as it's diluted.
But when you look at the change interval of 100k on the hubs. How many years would it be until needing it again? I probably wouldn't be alive.
Or 3 years? You can make it!!
My Foretravel chassis guru mentioned not mixing the hub oils also
Shush, service centers and other entity's don't want people to know facts. Ka-ching, ka-ching.
Suit yourselves. You can tell me it's fine but the Foretravel dealerships twenty year chassis mechanic friend of mine said not to do it if possible.
What Happens If You Mix Regular and Synthetic Oil? (https://www.thoughtco.com/mixing-regular-and-synthetic-oil-3975967)
I run sentinel lubricants Semi fluid grease #4 in my front hubs full synthetic. Once it's in no more worries with leaking seals and such. Been in there since 2005 no issues.
If you "routinely" mix oils you may not get the full effects. An oil change is not a routine mix. Otherwise we would have to blow out all of the galley's and bearings, and wipe down the internals to get all of the other oil out. I'm just a 95 %'r I must confess.
Exactly what i do. And also did as a FT tech. Got approval to do it from Nac (back then)
Full syn only . Any blends take on the coking specs of the lowest temp coke point.
Is this the stuff I've seen referred to as "hub oil?" Is it just a question of removing the old lube and adding new or is it required to change parts?
No parts need to be changed unless you have a leaking seal.
As I understand it the hub needs to be removed and drained and cleaned before synthetic is added if you want 100% synthetic
Unless someone can convince me to do otherwise I'm going to go with Brett's (wolf10) suggestion on how to change the hub oil using Stump's recommendation of Lucas Hub Oil. Then later if I am concerned about the actual concentration of dino versus synthetic I will change it again in half the synthetic's life.
The leak stop feature is the selling point. I don't have a leak, and I don't want one. It's just like using the radiator stop-leak as a
preventative measure.
According to James at FOT and the appearance of my oil I don't even need to change it, so adding as little as 50% synthetic
can't do anything but good.
The duty of lubing the front wheel bearings is so easy, it's likely ANY type of oil will work fine.
I pulled the little drain plug on the hubs and let them drain for over an hour and old stuff was still coming out. Refilled with lucas hub oil (more like cold honey) and its still nice and clean. Used less than half the bottle to totally refill, which took a few refills as it percolated back into the inner bearing. Let it sit an hour before you declare it full. The stuff is so thick it takes time.
A "flexible funnel" or form a funnel makes quick work of draining the hubs without making a mess. I learned about it from a youtube howto video and it worked well.
I replaced the 4 gallons of rear differential oil and greased the chassis yesterday. Next time I will be glad to have someone else do the differential - what a mess and I thought my arms would fall off after pumping all that oil. On the other hand, I will never have someone else grease the chassis.
What kind of a pump did you use?