Not much time today but did get a couple small things done: for the first time raised the coach and put the 8,11.5" safety stands in place then dumped the air. I could have ordered 12" for the front and 12.5" for the back. Later this weekend hope to get time to work on a couple of major air issues underneath the coach.
Also troubleshot a leak-down issue with the bedroom slide out bladder. Went to Target and got a monster bottle of kids bubble stuff (2L for $5). Did some work to isolate the air leak. Think I found the issue: leaking 1/4" check valve between the bladder manifold and the manifold's shut off valve. We'll see tomorrow if it's still holding pressure.
The bladder held pressure overnight. Yea!
Worked under the front and replaced 4 Haldex check valves and the front manifold air regulator. All of those parts were identified during the PPI as defective. The supply-side check valves in the ends of the front and rear air tanks were really hard to remove. Took some serious persuasion to get them out. But we're done!
Fun day. So thankful for the forum.
Just a little show and tell. Here are the after photos of the 4 new check valves, 2 on the front tank (photos 1 & 2) and two on the rear (photos 3 & 4) . Also a new pressure regulator for the front 6-pack. After reassembly, the SMC 1/2x1/2 PTC connector on the supply side of the rear tank failed and was spewing air (no photo). Replaced it this morning. Thankful that our brand new NAPA store carries a selection of DOT approved SMC PTC fittings.
I replaced the regulator but the new one failed. It had a crack in the body axially along the threads. Maybe a manufacturing defect or maybe I overtightened it. Got a new one and all's good there (photo 5).
Minor leak in front output tee solved by trimming the ends of each 3/8" tube and reseating them (photo 6).
I'm pretty excited about the good condition of the coach up underneath. Only the tiniest bits of very light oxidation. Almost none to speak of. All the dark streaking in the photos is the bubble solution I was squirting during leak checks. Someone on the forum suggested kids bubble solution and it works really well. Much better than the homemade stuff I tried first.
hey mark just curious how do the black air lines come apart from the check valves? they don't look like screw connections...
keith
PTC = Push To Connect. The composite (black) fittings, and the brass fittings, both work the same way:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBo0TYdk65g
The little ring on the edge of the fitting has to be pushed toward the fitting to release the air line.
Nice informative thread. Chuck, your video helped, too! Good stuff and nice work, Mark.
Dang!!, this forum is awesome!! Thanks Chuck and Red! Is the tool to to take it apart mandatory?
I have used a small pliers that when closed is just a little bigger than the tubing, that way, pressure is exerted equally on the collar, pushing it in evenly. Have run into some that will not come out, and had to cut off and buy a new fitting.
No, the tool is not necessary. You can use almost anything that will fit over the tubing and push down
evenly on the ring. For instance, a suitable sized open-end wrench works very nicely.
It also helps to push the tube
into the fitting slightly
before you push down on the ring. Pushing the tube in first takes some of the "griping" force off the internal teeth, and makes it easier to release the locking ring.
If you want one of those cool little (plastic & rubber) tubing cutters, this is a pretty good price (but shop around - you might do better). Ignore the "bullet points" in the Amazon ad product description - they are incorrect. The "product specs" are correct:
Parker Hannifin PTC-001 Plastic Tube Cutter: Industrial Tube Fittings:... (https://www.amazon.com/Parker-Hannifin-Tube-Cutter/dp/B077PTQRRW)
The shark bite tubing removers work well also from Home Depot.
Thanks to you to jcuz.... your profile says your on the island, that's about 30 mins from me, close enough to pick your brain in person if things get bad!