My Dometic fridge NDR1062 is not cooling. On the way home from my last trip it started going down. I had to crank up the temp to keep it working and it doesn't cool at all on LP or AC. LP is working, chimney stack is hot and so is AC. When I was emptying the fridge I thought I smelled ammonia, wife didn't. When looking in the vent window behind the fridge I see a yellow residue at the base of the stack. Any ideas would be helpful. Thinking I will be making a trip to Shipshewana for a new fidge or cooling unit.
Thanks, John M
Shut it off now!!!! Huge fire hazard
Yup OFF NOW unless you want to call the fire department.
It is dead. You either need a new cooling unit, new absorption refrigerator, or residential refrigerator.
Depends on your budget and how much boon-docking you do.
X2 What Tim & Brett said, big time! We had one go down with the same experience as noted. Bite the bullet, it's not worth re-building, don't ask why we know.
It's TU. Not sure of your width but if you are going to stay with an RV fridge, consider a helium unit. No fire risk. Contact Jerry Maddux for info as he did a DIY installation. PPL is one of the Attwood Helium Refrigerator dealers: RV Refrigerators and Parts - PPL Motor Homes (http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-refrigerator-parts-1.htm)
No double doors available from Attwood for helium units.
Factory site: Atwood Helium Refrigerators (http://www.atwoodmobile.com/refrigerators/)
I know some of the early ones had problems so do your research before buying.
Our U300 had a bad fridge (same failure as yours) but I had a new Norcold in our garage (horse traded for it) so I installed it. Has been working great for almost eight years.
Other options are to replace the cooling unit in your old one or go to a residential unit.
If you coach has the old style fridge compartment, review my old posts for what I had to do to make it fireproof. Most RV fires are caused by fridge failures with the ammonia/hydrogen catching fire. Here is a link to what I did to the fridge compartment: U300 fridge enclosure modification. - Google Photos (https://goo.gl/photos/xKPQAmuysZsk2gC77)
PM if you have questions.
John, you were one of the lucky ones!!! Check the net for "Foretravel," "salvage," and you will see several Foretravels burned in the fridge location.
Pierce
You will need to decide what your replacement will be. I decided to replace the cooling unit for several reasons. I also added the ARP safety control.
You will have decide what works best for you.
Rich
We replaced the cooling unit in ours with one made by the Amish in Shipshewana Indiana over four years ago and have been well pleased. Search for "Amish Cooling Unit."
Hi Rich,
We too put a new (Amish) absorption core just recently - we do lots of dry camping. I can't say the freezer it is as cold as a residential, otherwise it is great. By the time you pay labor for the remodel space either way you choose is about the same price - a couple of coach bucks. T i sure is a big job for changing out the absorption unit - 7 hours at MOT.
All said and done the residential is a lot less worry and you have more inside space plus your ice cream is colder.
Jim
2002 U320
I want to thank everyone for the input and concerns. Since we were doubtful of the issues and concerned with our findings we had the fridge turned off. I have a lot of research to do. I have a small opening to work with and don't know if I can find a residential fridge to fit. My opening is 23 11/16" wide by 59 15/16" high by 24" deep. I don't want to cut the cabinets or lose any storage. Time to research.
John M.
Not wanting to cut cabinents was why I chose to simply have the Amish replace the cooling unit.
John,
Your OEM Dometic probably has a step at the bottom of the compartment. As you can see in my photo link, other refrigerators don't have the step so the modified floor is flat. Several RV fridges will fit your opening including the Norcold. If you do DIY, it will take a couple of days to make the modifications from Dometic to a flat floor residential or RV refrigerator. Either way, you won't lose any storage space on the top, bottom or sides.
Pierce
D.J.
I will be calling JC Refrigeration in Sipshwana on Monday for a price and a appointment. We are in Illinois and it's not far from where we are at. I would rather have them do the install. The wife wants to keep the wood look on the fridge and does not want to get away from the original look.
John M
Residential you will be ok width, height will be the challenge Shop abt.com and
AJ Madison.com
You can choose by size (width) on these web sites
If you stick with an absorption unit I echo Rich get an ARP controller.
http://rvcoolingunit.com/-ARP-21-Refrigerator-Failure-prevention-with-Fan-Control-and-a-new-Fan-P5652923.aspx
The ARP keeps the coils from overheating which causes the over pressure which causes the coils to blow out in the first place.
The rvcoolingunit.com guys also sell the Amish coils. They have videos on the site that show how to replace. You might want to check them out before you have someone else do it. The NDR1062 is pretty easy to man handle unlike the big double door units. Search for NDR1062 on their site.
see ya
ken
John,
ForeForums search is your friend. Specifically, look at:
Absorption Refrigerator Options in a U270 (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=19944.msg146099#msg146099)
Then specifically look at the attached spread sheet in Reply #27 and you will see that it compares Amish coil replacements, residentials and the Atwood (which fits your criteria, including dimensions, perfectly). I was the first or second FoFum to install an Atwood and it was a good choice. The decision making logic and the operating results are all there in that thread. The first Atwood that I installed, I got alarmed about because of some insulation "oozing" out of it, so I asked for and got a warranty replacement. Further correspondence with Atwood sort of indicated that it was an early manufacturing process growing pain and nothing to worry about. The (2) units worked extremely well and I suggest you talk with Ric Green for an update. That Atwood has several years of use on it by now.
Anyway, the whole thread is still pertinent and I still feel the same way today about residential vs. absorption. After we spent the summer traveling last year, up in the Canadian maritimes, I am even more thankful for the non residential, absorption, non-solar original design of our FT's. Solar and a residential refrigerator would just not be friendly in the type of camping that we were able to enjoy in the maritimes. Too many trees and mostly 30 Amp power in both the Provincial and National parks. Most of the 50 Amp power that we found was in private campgrounds and those didn't have the spectacular waterfront locations that we were able to score because we didn't have to live power pole to power pole.. A residential would have been a burden. The need to be in the open for solar would have been a burden.
HTH,
Neal
Keeping An Eye On The Amish (cooling unit) (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=27002.msg219534#msg219534)
Scheduled to put in residential Samsung unit on July 10 @MOT. Tired of dometic slow recovery when doors opening and frost even with fans inside. Time to step up to new technology.
As was posted the refer choice depends on use and power availability.
150 amp hours consumed average per 24 hours I see here is either a non or big issue.
The Dometic 7832 in our 97 was way ahead of its time in some ways as it does offer a compressor in the freezer side if needed.
One for sale in the ads here?
At least four 8g8d's imo for a residential.
And I would substitute lifeline AGM's at 250 amp hours rating each versus the std 225 amp hour gels we now use.
That would add 50 amp hours in total to get down to 50% SOC.
You really can only go from 50-90% SOC. quickly enough.
Three gels would give 275? Amp hours where four lifeline AGM's would give over 400.
Plus led everything.
Charging our three gels shows bulk charge rates of 110 amps out of a 130 rating on the magnum.
Similar from the alternator.
So the fourth battery might benefit from a even bigger alternator and a 150 amp charger like I think the sw3000 has?
My guru buddy constantly is adding capacity to rv's with residential refers.
His minimum is four 8'ds and 500 watt solar
Neal,
Totally agree with you. Absorption is an excellent compromise for those who dry camp a lot. Our big propane tank stores a huge amount of energy. Even though we have a lot of solar on the roof, we do crawl through the trees to get to some campsites and get less from the solar so would not want to depend on 12V or 110V for the fridge. With us, the generator is not an option. It's probably been a couple of years since we used it for AC so other than an oil change, it never gets any use. At $1200, an Atwood helium reefer with a 20 year lifespan only costs $60/yr.
A big coach with slides would do well with a residential fridge as they would never be able to get to the primitive sites we go to so shore power is perfect. Choice would seem based on lifestyle with no judgement intended.
Pierce
John- we replaced our cooling unit and also have the ARP system plus fan on ours. Works great, we live in our coach full time and sometimes wind up dry camping even when we didn't plan to.....like the other night when power went out. Got up in the morning, perked coffee on the propane stove, refrigerator kept everything cold including beer until the electric repair was completed.
We have the best of both worlds. I added 500 watts of solar, still using my 2 8G8D batteries, and my big propane tank. We are ready to boondock anywhere and hook up when we want to.
Do what fits your lifestyle, have fun, cya down the road................ ^.^d
Installing a new cooling unit can be challenging, here was my experience.
Five years ago, early in 2012, I bought a new cooling unit from RVCOOLINGUNIT (Amish)for my Dometic RM7832 and installed it myself, it failed after 5 weeks. RVCOOLINGUNIT send a replacement unit at no charge, but it failed after only 5 days. After many phone calls, RVCOOLINGUNIT was unable to provide advice to me that resulted in a working cooling unit.
In desperation I phoned a Canadian propane fridge expert, Steve at Hillside Propane in Enderby, BC, Canada. I relayed to Steve the boiler, tank, and coil temperatures experienced and his immediate question was "Is the horizontal freezer U pipe level?" I said "no" because I had noticed that it was not perpendicular to the back of the fridge and bent it up as far as it would stay but it was still 1.25 inches low on the right and .75 inches low on the left. Steve said "the cooling unit will not work if the horizontal freezer U pipe is not level". I used a 6 foot 2x2 and a crow bar to get enough force to level the horizontal freezer tube and attached aluminum angle iron to the side wall of the freezer to keep it level. I then cycled the cooling unit on and off twice before it started working. The fridge has now been working since 2012 March 23rd.
The horizontal freezer tubes in both of the RVcoolingUNIT cooling units I received were not perpendicular to the back. The second one was farther off level than the first one, and I believe, that is why the first one lasted 5 weeks while second one lasted 5 days. In addition to this, there is no warning in your instructions to assure that the horizontal freezer tubes are level.
The RVcoolingUNIT folks were so wrong about "propane is not hot enough" and that was my intuition. Their advice kept focussing on "propane not hot enouigh". Steve just asked me, "Can you hear the propane flame from outside the coach and did you make sure that the chimney diffuser was in place?" He told me that he did not believe that this cooling unit was not working because propane was not hot enough and he was right.
The inability of RVcoolingUNIT to determine the real problem with their cooling unit cost me at least 100 aggravating hours over a period of a month.
Adding to this confusion in 2012 was an intermittent "eye brow board" which would leave the fridge off intermittently. After months of a cold, warm, cold fridge, I replaced the "eye brow board" with a new one - problem solved.
After reading Wyatt's posts for several years, it's obvious he is a pretty detail oriented guy with a lot of DIY ability. His post above shows the problems you may run into when you do a major renovation to an appliance like a refrigerator even when you are very knowledgable. The most successful companies make a YouTube video that shows exactly how their product should be installed. A lot of frustration can be avoided if you research the availability of installation instructions. I remember a HID headlight kit that had an instruction book so small you needed a microfiche reader to decipher. Even then, the translation from another language made it very difficult.
I expect others have experienced the same problems as Wyatt. Unless you are prepared to possibly spend a lot of hours troubleshooting and have a lot of patience, fitting a new refrigerator may be the best option. Even then, the older coaches should have a refrigerator compartment remodel.
Pierce
X1.....We had one go bad, but we were not close to anyone who could work on it. Pulled it out, loaded it in my truck and blew the day taking it to a shop. Fixed?, "Yup", back to pick it up $$$, blew another day and re-installed it. Worked fine "FOR A YEAR!"
That was the last time I took the "short path" on any appliances. ^.^d
I am posting this info just for that reason-info. I have been doing some re modelling work at a neighbours and today I had to finish a bit of drywall mudding. The owner showed me the new 'fridge for this kitchen ( a small suite for student) and I measured it and it would fit in a coach as a direct replacement for a single wide RV type if you wanted. It does mention it is for "stand alone" use only but seems identical to the Whirlpool model we (and others) have installed years ago and continue to operate well.
measurements are just under 24" width and height 59".
Didn't someone mention that not all residential refrigerators could handle an RV environment...Something about compressor not being stable enough for the movement.
Have built a boat, an airplane and participated in 25+ habitat builds My wife would say I'm handy.
Absorption went out in my 1989 11 years ago. Set out to replace cooling unit as DIY. Took refrigerate out of coach. Removed cooling unit. Decided above my desire and pay grade to install rebuilt cooling unit.
Trashed old refrigerator and put in new absorption refrigerator in that coach Motor blew 6 weeks later OREG. Sent away on new tires with new batteries and refrigerator, and a junk motor
My tech buddy mentioned hearing the fore and aft mounted compressors run oil through the system they were not designed for while driving.
Does not seem to be a big issue here. Or does it?
Plus the refer was designed to be in a temp controlled area and exhausts to the interior
Scroll style compressors are in almost all heat pumps, geothermal units, AC compressors, refrigerators, freezers, you name it in last 20 years. They do fine in pitching seas, turning trucks and all manner of mobile applications.
Keep positive gravity of 1G or so and spend your worry dollars elsewhere.
Copeland scrolls are at about 70% market share worldwide
http://www.emersonclimate.com/en-US/about_us/news/news_releases/Pages/emerson_climate_celebrates_shipment_of_its_150,000th_scroll_compressor_to_the_global_refrigerated_marine_container_industry.aspx
So a Samsung residential refer has/had a scroll style compressor?
Buddy mentioned hearing the compressor making banging and knocking noises while being driven from the lubricating oil going though the compressors piston. Obviously not a scroll?
Normally the oil settles and does not directly go through the piston in a non moving use.
Interesting that the transport industry changed their design to work in a moving use.
Recips and rotary compressors not as energy efficient, few in use today. In general what you'll find is either a scroll compressor or an inverter based system into days newer refrigeration units.
Easiest thing to do is look in the manual for the specifications or parts list you can figure out if it is scroll or not from parts list description or specifications
Scrolls were developed in the 80's to deflect, in order to prevent damage from slugs of oil or liquid from poorly installed ref piping commonly found in residential installations or under adverse operating conditions or in a moving RV. The ultra efficient inverter units are back to rotary compressor in a/c units.
It appears that recips are still in significant use in appliances (freezers and refrigerators) since the tend to be about as wide as they are tall and that packaging is efficient in a refrigerator design , but I can not find any reference that a Hermetic recip compressor should not be used in a mobile application.
I suspect the roof airs in our RVs are recip, since scrolls tend to be taller vs their width. They seem to survive linear and non linear g forces in everyday use.
Have had no issue with my residential, thousands others on the road. I would suspect of problems or showing up manufactures would stop putting residential refrigerators in RVs.
Does your buddy have any documentation relative to his concern regarding acceleration forces in residential refrigerator applications. This has piqued my curiosity.
Other than he can hear the oil going through the piston while driving customers coaches? My memory of his comments were that some newer compressors are mounted horizontally while some older ones were vertical.
The horizontally mounted ones package better and can result in more internal refer volume.
No household refer was designed to be a non climate controlled moving application.
Why would you as a appliance manufacturer?
He mentioned the coach heating issue as they vent inside.
I think he mentioned some kind of refer venting into the bays on some SOB brands because of the additional interior heat loading otherwise?
In my opinion, "heat loading" is a non issue. We've enjoyed our Samsung for several years, in warm and cold weather. Our original fridge vents are both closed, so our Samsung does its thing in a "closed environment". Heat coming off the fridge is never noticeable in any way. If it adds a little heat in the summer, so what? We are probably running our A/C units anyway. Heat gain from the windows, roof and walls of the coach are a much bigger factor. In the winter, any extra interior heat generated by the fridge would be welcomed.
Lots of Samsung installs out there - very few problems. As stated above, make your fridge choice based on
your camping lifestyle and what works best for you.
Bob
Every luxury boat and most luxury coaches today go out the door with Residential Appliances. IF it was unsafe or not good for the appliance, manufacturers would simply void all warranty if used in a mobile application AND PUT NOTICE NOT TO USE IN SUCH APPLICATIONS IN ALL CAPS (and bold) LIKE THIS IN THE OWNERS MANUAL AND INSTALLATION GUIDE. :-)
(We used to tell customers about our services agreement, if it is in BOLD face, don't bother to bring it up for negotiation - pesky lawyers wouldn't let us change a comma - but I digress!)
I am not the least about heat load in the coach or house. IS there more heat load transferred from an open flame (vented to the outside but producing heat in the proximity of the interior of the coach) vs. the small amount vented when the compressor is running in the residential? Who knows, neither is a significant factor in real life.
Sounds like your GURU doesn't like residential - no problem there - but there are hundreds of thousands of these units in mobile applications, RV's, boats, Blood labs, you name it, without significant problem other than they don't burn propane, which for many is a benefit and for some a disqualifier. I fall on the benefit side of that spectrum.
Now if your GURU buddy could just find that pesky air leak I have!!!!
Does he work independent? What part of CA?
Your buddy may be a GURU - but he has this one wrong re residential refrigerators.
BTW, studied more diagrams/parts lists out of curiosity last night - only saw vertically mounted compressors in the ones I looked at - most of the form factors were such that the Hermetic recipe compressors were about as tall as they were in diameter - so there would not seem to be an incentive to lay it on it's side for packaging purposes.
All I said was that he commented about possible future damage to SOME refers from the oil going through the compressor motor.
He is a purist and was Vogues quality control guy when in ca. And designed their heating and a/c systems and was one of the three original founders of coach net.
He walked me up to a older vogue and opened the electrical boxes lid and his signature was on the inspection plate
17 years at his ca. location.
I understand that there are thousands of refers out there.
If the info is not a help or you do not agree ignore it.
When I had my cooling unit replaced in 2009, I asked the guys at the shop that had the remaned cooling units what they charge to install it- $80.00 . I was there the next day, 2 guys took out the old unit, installed the remaned unit, checked my electrical, etc. We have been using it non stop since then and very happy with it.
Someone asked me who the remanufacturer was and when we looked in our records and called found they are no longer in business. A shame but I am glad I have my unit with ARP & fan.
Cya down the road..................... ^.^d
The only problem I've had with our Dometic 1492 Amish cooling unit is ice build-up on the fins, which was easily fixed with the fans pictured. I run our unit on setting #3 in 90 degree weather and my beer is ice cold.
We spent around $70.00 for the door hinge kits which is cheap insurance that one or more of the hinges won't break
out of the plastic door and make the reefer obsolete. I painted the hinge kit and spacers the color of the reefer trim.
I also keep the chimney and LP orifice clean, and when the box isn't level or in use it is shut it off, and we couldn't be happier
with our Dometic/Amish 1492.
FYI, Here is info on R600a which is Butane.
Gary B
R600a (CARE 10) Isobutane | Linde Industrial Gases (http://www.linde-gas.com/en/products_and_supply/refrigerants/natural_refrigerants/r600a_isobutane/index.html)
What is the source for the hinge kits? Thanks!
Dometic Refrigerator Beige Door Hinge Repair Kit - Refrigerator Parts -... (http://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-refrigerator-beige-door-hinge-repair-kit.html)
Don't ask me why, but the black ones are almost twice as much money.
Dyer's worked with me when I asked for better pricing on two kits.
There is a small difference on our Dometic 7832's cooling ability between gas and a/c.
A/c cools a few degrees better.
Need to verify the propane pressure at the refer. Then verify no corrosion on the jet itself. The burner grid does get corroded and I clean it regularly.
Might be tempted to enlarge the jet a extremely tiny amount. Like one number on a set of numbered drill bits type mod.
Want the same cooling on a/c and gas.
I understand the off level flame issues. Probably why it's not slightly larger burner wise. For off level loading use might replug the refers power into the inverter circuit for a while.
After a long wait and discussion, the Carmen and I decided on the cooling unit upgrade to our existing fridge. My wife wanted to keep the look of our current and neither of wanted to go with a residential fridge. We do boondock when we travel and our absorption fridge is the way to go. The entire installation was completed by JC Refrigeration in Shipsawana, Indiana. Total cost with cooling unit, installation, cooling fans and taxes was $893 out the door. We were lucky with our fridge. We only had an ammonia leak, no hydrogen.
John M
Yes, I agree, but had a "re-built" fail after a year. Let us know how your fridge is doing after a while. ^.^d
Do not drill jet, it is not round inside, has tiny shoulders inside to improve flame pattern.
If the ammonia leaks out, so does the hydrogen. Fortunately, the hydrogen did not find a spark or flame, as mine did.
Mike our unit was a brand new cooling unit. Nothing from the old unit was used. The new unit was made from a heavier gauge tubing. They did a great job on the install and too a lot of precaution in keeping things clean. We were very satisfied with the install and the people were great.
Tom, the leak was in the burner location. It had a yellow residue at the base of the burner. They told me that it was only ammonia no hydrogen otherwise we could of had a fire.
John M.
Avanti RA7316PST 2-Door Apartment Size Refrigerator, Black with Platinum Finish Amazon.com: Avanti RA7316PST 2-Door Apartment Size Refrigerator, Black with... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D1SZNO6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2Ijszb081NFCS)
This one should work for your opening. Replaced my dometic a couple weeks ago. So far so good.