Have been using this thread as a great source of knowledge. Thank you for that. Here is a list and it is all over the place. Please reply as you feel fit.
[split out the 2 other questions into their own topics - Michelle]
3. We are getting back from quick trip to beach having strange transmission issues. 3060R retard engaged immediately with release of throttle also erratic kickdown from 6-5 than real lazy to get back to 6. When camped played with TPS unplugged and replugged. Reset error codes. All well 200 miles than same issues. Also on way home trans temp gauge started bouncing and erratic that was new. Problem better in mode "mode" Looked at Allison brain under console to check connections but will take some contortion to check those. Does temp sensor run thru "brain" or str8 to gauge may help locate of problem. My plan is to check and clean all connections and test drive.
Checked codes TPS error but thinking "brain" connectors due to temp sensor issues as well?
4. 8.3 Cummins 3060R trans. We achieved 7.33 mpg with get set running while we travelled. 550 miles is this average. Also oil pressure at operating temp idle 20 psi at hwy load 65 mph 1900 rpm it's 55 psi. Is this appropriate?
Plan to use coach for awhile unless I find a pile of money. Want to do things right. I realize this is all over so any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks for all the help/insight/support.
Joey Goff
Joey,
Do you have a hand control or just through the brake pedal that controls the retarder amount. It could be with the hand control that the bottom 2 notches have shorted out internally in the rheostat causing the retarder to come on too soon. This is rare to happen with the control on just the brake pedal. If not in the rheostat it could be a cable connection.
The erratic kick down/lazy up shift could be an internal pressure adjustment. If that is the case an Allison computer may be the best way to catch it as the transmission may not drop a flag.
Your temp gauge should run from the trans straight to the dash gauge. If you pull the wire off the sending unit with the switch on the gauge should go wide open. (full hot)
Pamela & Mike
I broke out the 3 main "ideas" each into their own topic. Makes it easier to follow the thread of answers and for future searches :)
Thank You Michelle.
I spend lots of time surfing this site. I hope to co tribute more too. Problem time. Busy busy. Anyway. Thanks to all. Family presence is felt. Y'all are great. Too cool. Have had campers 5th wheels class c. Sob class a diesel. When I drove up to our current 96 U270 I bought it before I got out of truck. Then I drove it. Really are nicely crafted. Look forward to meeting some of the "family"
Joey
Oil pressure and mileage are in range. Oil pressure will be higher when engine is cold Need to add your coach to your profile to make it easier for everyone to know what coach you have.
Oil pressure OK.
Query the transmission for diagnostic codes:
Ignition on, engine off.
Push up and down arrows on Allison shift pad at the same time.
That should bring up d-1. If there is a diagnostic code, it will be two numbers. Write them down. If d-1 and - -, there are no diagnostic codes. If there is a d-1, after recording it, hit mode to bring up the next one. When you get to one that reads - -. just turn off the ignition.
What speed were you driving to get that MPG? At 55-60, is should be 10-15% better unless you are in the mountains or stiff head wind.
We travelled at 65-70 there and about 65 average on trip home. Did retrieve codes d1 21 23. Which is tps high fail but cleared code and fan fine most of way home then tran temp gauge and same error codes.
Mpg sounds correct. Our 10k gen takes .44 gph
P.us the 1 mpg loss at 65-70. Versus 55-60.
So at 55-60 and no gen close to 9 mpg.
Which is good.
Changing the fan controller will make a noticeable difference in both your power and mpg.
You are losing 30-50 hp depending on rpms and temps from the fan locked on high when the motor is warmed up.
What is fan controller. Fan is hydraulic correct.
Thanks
Yes flite10 and I both noticed the different controller that Foretravel speced versus the rest of the Rv biz.
Little black unit in the radiator pipe that has two hydraulic lines plumbed to it.
That controls the fan speed.
It's full on at 180.
Replacement unit is full on at 199.
Engine hermostat does not open fully until 195.
Like I said the lower power loss controller and resonator allowed me to go ten to fifteen mph faster at the same mpg as I got with the std controller and muffler.
Frugal people would keep up their mpg versus go faster
Where might I find this controller. Seem as factory controllerwill cause fan to run full speed constantly. Any source info on this? Fairly simple to swap? Thanks
Ask flite10 for the dynamatic part number. Made in England $7-800 part.
In the cooling system. Plus two hydraulic hoses.
If hes not around I can get the number off mine.
The country coach service place in Oregon has them also I think