Just checking tires etc before heading out and noticed flaking rubber on airbags , guessing it's time to change them before I get stuck on side of road .
Anyone have experience on an 03 u295 , list of tools and source for bags would be appreciated.
As usual I will have to find a quiet spot in a CG and use my four legged friend as look out
Here is our Berry Beam Foretravel tech source. Air Bags (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/air_bags.html) Make sure your bag part number is the same as the earlier models. Check posts for the Conti airbag (Continential Tire Germany) part number and price. They are less expansive and should be at least as good as the Firestone. Again see old posts for the Conti airbag. Look up my old posts for the tools needed. The price may have gone up on the Conti airbags but should still be less expensive than the Firestones.
Online Catalog – ContiTech Air Spring Systems – Division ContiTech of... (http://www.contitech.de/catalogs/asrepcatalogam/?lang=en-GB)
Pierce
Confirmed that I have the firestone
W01-358-9448 but unable to cross reference with continental!
ContiTech Number:9 10-14 P 312
try that
also ...not sure about bolt alignment
"Removed wrong link"
so looking at them it looks like there are different materials used inside? Steel, Aluminum and plastic.. what preferred? Or needed
The airbags are made of a very thick layer of rubber with layers of fabric cords. The ends are either aluminum or plastic. I don't think the material matters much on the ends. The bags are exposed to a lot of road debris and chemicals if driven on treated winter roads. Storage with the bags compressed will cause the bags to create a sharp fold at the bottom. This is where most air bags fail. Even then, they may last for twenty years. They may look very old and you may be able to see the cord before they start leaking.
In the majority of cases, air bags don't blow out but develop a hole in one spot that will increase in size. If you notice the air pressure cycling more than usual, a bag may have a leak. If on the road, it may be plugged with a tubeless tire plug and will get you home or to a shop.
Pierce
We cut airbags apart long ago and as far as I know they were steel belts in there.
The hour glass shaped bags were not over the road parts, used on assembly lines and such.
Monaco used them with good results as the shape seemed to dampen the coaches movements up and down..
Old mid door dynasties drove beautifully.
Their engineering VP was an old drag racing buddy. Enoch
I would recommend new nuts, washers, and air fittings when you replace the bags.
The correct number Contitech for my '03 U295 is AS9448 which is a direct replacement for the OEM Firestone
W01-358-9448. The ones pictured above on ebay in no way resemble them.
AS9448 by CONTITECH - CONTITECH AIR SPRING 64286/1R11-150/8563 (https://www.finditparts.com/products/7889630/contitech-as9448)
The price for all eight Contitechs has increased $304.96 since I purchased mine back in February.
I tried to order 6 more,(already bought 2) say's they only have one. I also found on Ebay from same company, only one left. Same price, free shipping, and sales tax for Idaho.
CONTITECH AS9448 - CONTITECH AIR SPRING 64286/1R11-150/8563 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/302171453755?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
Even with free shipping, they are $118.00 each.
I found these:
1R11-150 Air Bag 9448 in Suspension (https://www.vanhorntruckparts.com/product/28825/1R11-150-Air-Bag-9448/)
And these:
http://www.stengelbros.net/product.asp?itemid=1791&gclid=CjwKEAjw1PPJBRDq9dGHivbXmhcSJAATZd_Bk2JmLOCitmji7THDmazBnKyYCuHtbex10VfuAEKtzxoCp8Pw_wcB
Any input. May not be plastic bottoms
Chris, it says $111.16 for them now. Find It Parts has never charged me sales tax, but even if they did $33.84 seems like a lot.
That's 30%, and I thought Tennessee was high.
The Firestone spec sheet mentions fabric cords for the body.
A swear the old ones we tried to cut were steel belted.
We are 6% tax ($6.67).It does it when I go to order. It does it on ebay also. They also tacked on a handling and shipping $3.95.So it's $121.78 OTD. But say's only one at this price.
I have a $15.00 off coupon to use, but it won't let me buy 2, "only one at this price" I plan to call them Monday direct. Will see if the $3.95 is each, or per sale.
As you know, they went from like $75.00, to $111.00.
I always planned to buy 6 more. Kind of bummed. I will buy the other's else where if they don't work with me. More comfortable with the brands too.
Looks like steel cords showing in my old one's.
Did you order new nuts , washers , air fittings .
Any specific tools or techniques required
There is a past post on this. If you use the search above you will find everything you need to do it. There are 2 ways to do them.
1) yourself
2) pay someone
Try to do most jobs myself as I haven't had much luck with shop techs .
Did the search but didn't find a " dummies guide " ( me ) .
Did find talk of obscured nuts that required homemade wrench?
LOL......No sir. Taking the fender off, or not.
I totally agree. I am an unemployed, panhandler drag racer. I need all the help I can get.
I stand on the corner with a "I'll race for food" sign twice a week.
I live way above my pay grade.
But there are no pockets in caskets!
My friend did his, and it is crusty, rusty, and sweaty. He didn't have any problem using the old hardware.
"Anyone who lives within their means suffers from a lack of imagination."
Oscar Wilde
Update, Continental Bag installed
Made my eight 7" steel blocks to lock the chassis up. Used an old 5th wheel jack tube, so 4 slide inside each other for small storage.
Did the 1st bag today. Now that Find Parts.com jacked the price up, I decided to only change 2. The ones behind the front wheels.
They really aren't that bad, just had some scary splits, which once off, turned out to be nothing.The others are a little crusty around the bottom, but IMHO no big deal.
I ordered one more for a spare. If I ever have to change one, why not put a new one on, rather then an old one. I liked doing it at home for a dry run, to see what I would need. I did it all with hand tools, even though I have air and all kinds of impacts.I had all the parts to make a fancy tool, but the truth is, with a swivel headed ratchet, it was easy. I can also see how cutting the hard to get bolt off with a sawzall would be easy.If done right, it's not going to hurt anything.You just need to loosen the bag some, and let the it drop off the plate a bit.My blade was too short, so i didn't do it.
I thought about doing them on the road, if it gave me any hassle, I would take the fender off. When I was a FT tech, we did it all the time. No biggy. But this way was quick. Start to finish, less then an hour. I'am 69 1/2 years, so I am no spring chicken either.
I cleaned all the lower plates and painted them, then cleaned and wiped down the old bags with Protectant 303. I used all the old hardware. But will get new hardware for spares, when I do the next one. I also got a brass cap together for the air line for future use if one starts leaking.
I thought about changing the plastic bottom plate out to the old metal one, but it looks fine to me.I went with it.
Now that I know it is easy to do, carrying a spare and all the parts and tools, I am not going to worry about it. They don't "blow out" anyway.
New one on left, old on right
Cheers
How does the airline disconnect?
You unscrew a fitting. That part is fairly easy. one nut on each of the airbags is where the special tools are sometimes needed.
Is it necessary to seal off the air line while changing a bag? In other words will the bladders stay inflated?
No. I raised the coach. Locked the chassis up with blocks, then dumped all the air. I plan to carry the blocks with me.
I have been told you can pinch the line with vise grips, but I would think it would damage the line.
If you had a leaky one, and can't air up, then that is where the cap I have would block off the line to the one bag. Then air up.
Chris
The bladder system is separate from the bags?
If you pull the wheel well fenders, it's super easy. If you don't, it's a lot harder for one of the nuts. A lot harder.
Pierce
From what I see happen, it dumps all the air in the tanks when I pull the line. But I don't have slides.
When you pull the line off the airbag you will let the air out of the bag and air line back to the HWH manifold. As long as the HWH system is off no air will travel out of the air tanks through the HWH manifold to the air bag.
Update.
Did the other side. One Bolt was a hassle, it would have came off if I kept going. Pulled out the sazall, "Bamb" Done. No fuss, no gouged metal etc. The secret is to loosen the nut some,let the bag drop off the plate a little, so there is room to cut it off.
45 min. from start to finish, included washing my hands.
I agree with Pierce, if on the road, and any hassle, take off the fender.
I bought this today for future emergency if needed. $15.00. This should work even better then a swivel headed ratchet for the hidden one.
3/8" Heavy Duty Flexible Ratchet (https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/3-8-eighth-inch-heavy-duty-flexible-ratchet-96369.html)
BTW....Blaster PB is your friend
Incorrect on my part. John is correct. Air stays in the tanks
You will need to check the air diagram for your coach. Since the aux compressor feeds both leveling and slide bladders, there are likely check valves that are *supposed* to isolate things, but never assume ;)
FYI, just went through this on my front 4 airbags. Found a local source that had the cross referenced Goodyear part# - 1R11-150 the next day. Sweet. Took off the front fenders & changed out the front bags using 6-3/4" long 2" SCH40 steel pipe frame blocks. Afterwards, aired up the bags and the frame blocks were still tight. Huh. They had at least 1/2"-3/4" clearance when I put them in with the old bags. Off to google, and there is all kinds of info.
Beam Alarm website has a sketch showing the Firestone W01-358-9448 airbag with a 14.2" extended height.
Firestone publication shows it having a 13.8" extended height.
Goodyear 1R11-150 has a 13.0" extended height.
The Contitech cross reference has a 14.4" extended height.
All are listed as crosses - but I suspect that just had to do with piston diameter and bolt arrangements for mounting.
Kind of in a dilemma now. I called Foretravel and they were disappointingly not helpful. Said that they set the ride height to 8.25" and expect 4" of travel up & down. Given those numbers, the Goodyear bags should be OK. But, I have to think that that extra height would be beneficial when trying to level up on not so level ground.
Anyone have experience with the Goodyear 1R11-150 bags? My source can get the Firestones to a tune of $210each in time before my vacation next week. Ouch.
How about free 2 day delivery from Michigan Truck Spring for $164 out the door? http://www.truckspring.com/products/Firestone-Reversible-Sleeve-Air-Spring__W01-358-9448.aspx
Even with the price increase, the Conti air bags are still a lot cheaper.
Conti 64286 AS9448 $111 @ AS9448 by CONTITECH - CONTITECH AIR SPRING 64286/1R11-150/8563 (https://www.finditparts.com/products/7889630/contitech-as9448)
Firestone Style 1T15L-2
Firestone No. W01-358-9448
FleetPride AS9448
Goodyear 1R11-150
Goodyear Flex No. 566223021
Taurus 6368
Triangle AS-8563
TRP AS94480
Automann 1DK20D-9448
Pierce
I cut open an air bag from my 96 U320 and it did NOT have steel cords, it was string of some kind.
Note that on my coach the front air bags have 45 - 50psi, while rear air bags have 75 - 80 psi, so much more likely to blow a rear bag.
No steel cords here either. See attached photo for the air bags looked like when we bought the coach. Cords in the photo are string of some type as Wyatt says.
Pierce
Did you try to cut through the "fibers"? I remember service showing me one like in the picture and just for grins I told them to cut it on the band saw. No way. Steel cords.
Not that you are incorrect as things may have changed in 30 years.
Put a magnet on it just for info
No, these look like cotton but are probably a Dacron type material. Threads are nice and soft.
P
I cut the first two Firestone bags in half that I removed from the front of my 2000 U320, and can confirm there were no steel cords. Sawzall ate right through the rubber and whatever material cords were cast into the rubber.
Thanks for the information Pierce. The issue is the difference in height between all of the cross referenced bags. The Goodyears are much shorter than other offerings.
I decided to stop worrying and move on with my trip preparations. Front Goodyears will stay on, the rear Firestones are in good enough shape (I hope). When things calm down after I return, I'll revisit and probably order the Continentals @ $111 & free shipping to replace all bags and then sell the Goodyears at a loss on Ebay.
Yup right front, front air bag.
Watched MOT drill a 4" hole in the stair well to access that one top bolt (after moving the carpet out of the way) then slathered the slug with adhesive and put it back into the hole....
This what I did before figuring out how to not make holes or remove fender panels.
Air bags (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28375.msg236145#msg236145)
Under $100 with shipping..
Was looking around and found this link.. down a few bucks if anyone was looking.. he has 4 right now
I just put the (4) bags on the front of our coach earlier this week without removing any fenders or cutting any holes, and I'm planning to do the (easier) rears next week.
Like Gracerace I cut the bags off with a Sawzall, and used a 1-1/8" combination wrench from O'Reilly's after heating and bending the box end so it's in line with the shank and cutting 3" off the length;
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/performance-tool-4601/tools---equipment-16488/tools-17919/hand-tools-16814/wrench-16658/sae-box-combination-open-end-18011/combination-wrench/w334c/4614079
The 1-1/8" lock nuts that hold the air fitting studs are identical to the ones that hold the shocks on. I bought a 28MM deep impact socket that fits those shock nuts perfectly, and with an impact gun was able to get the shocks off, which was necessary for me to change out the air bags. When I reinstalled the bags I used regular non-locking nuts with a lock washer on the air fitting studs as it was a whole lot less work that way.
I also was able to reuse the air fittings themselves, and did I forget to say that because of the FT's rust-free condition underneath I didn't have to use any PB Blaster, Kroil or the like.
Happy Wrenching!