Great trip until now: After refueling, no crank situation. Dash has power, dash fan, etc. voltage doesn't dip when ignition is "keyed on" to start. All fresh Red Tops with clean install two months ago.
VDO shows 11v at rest, key on. Genset running. Called Coachnet and we are holding at WalMart fuel pumps. Blue Sea solenoid was installed last summer and is tight. Remote start in engine well doesn't crank. Thoughts?
Parking brake set? Did you try the boost Sw?
When you turn the ignition on do the gauges and warning lights activate?
Can you manually apply +12v to the control side of the solenoid?
Mark & Bruce--yes on Park Brake and gauges, warning lights. Have not applied 12v. independently. Boost worked in past. Thanks.
Paul - check this thread from Roland Begin for some ideas
Stuck on the fuel isle (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=22773.0)
Can you verify your start batteries are charged?If boost switch works then your batteries are not charging while driving,if that is the
case then check alternator.
Check voltage at the engine batteries. Should have mid 12V. Voltage good, go to below.
Check for juice with test light at the starter solenoid. If you only have one starter solenoid (no remote), jump the big hot side to the small terminal. If that does not work, jump the solenoid's two big terminals.
If battery voltage is good but no voltage at the starter solenoid, pull connections at the battery and clean.
Pierce
check and clean battery termials on your start batteries
I had that same problem in the past
Take a hammer and gently massage on the start solenoid that is mounted on your isolator panel (not the one under the dash kick panel) while 2nd person is holding the key to the start position. If no joy try the same thing to the solenoid on the starter. Now I don't mean to beat the feces out of them just a gentle persuasion. This may get you off the fuel island.
Pamela & Mike
Is the coach transmission selector in the normal start position? Double check it. Triple check it! Common problem with vehicles with safety interlock.
That happened to my '95 after I sold it.
They found a loose connection on the starter.
No Allison display w/ Key on! I do remember putting in Neutral put didn't check display. It should be illuminated at key on , right?
Have you tried the remote start switch in the engine compartment?
Ok. Now we have something. No Allison display usually means no communication between the Allison ECU and shift pad. First thing to do is find the ECU and reconnect the connectors. This may fix it. Nothing will happen until you get the communication linked.
You probably have a display there of a diagonal line and a dash line which Allison calls "cat eyes".
.............another thing is.....and I know this sounds silly, but it works........run a hair dryer on the ECU about 10 minutes and it may start.
The Allison pad guy said the later pads were not helped by the hair dryer. Sealed
He suggested removing and reinstalling the connecting plug on the box ten times.
Maybe at the top end in the left console also.
11 volts is low without the starter turning.
Twist the engine start batteries cables?
On my 96 unit a single wire partially pulled out of connector to shifter. Pushed all the wires back in and everything worked. Likely something similar in that or other connector.
The Allison guy said I needed a $3000 ECU, too. But the hair dryer worked and ECU was repaired for 600. His '95 and my '94 are the same. Might not work, but worth a try.
If you want to slip under the back. Find the starter,have key on ,Park brake set,and using a screwdriver jump the small terminal on starter solenoid to large battery terminal that should spin started and engine should at least start. weather it will go into gear is to be determined.
The attached may help:
It shows the sequence of events from turning key to start and engine cranking for our coach.
Flash, there is a big difference between the touch pad and the ECU.
Started! Unplugged the ECM at the footwell and replugged. Bingo. Thanks to everyone. More later...once I get away from the pumps! Floor it? You betcha. Thanks again!
Congrats. Loose/dirty connection can create havoc.
Connectors at both ends was what I said. easier at the ECU. More complicated to take the console apart
Reboot all the high tech stuff and realize, just like your gadgets they tend work awesome when they work. When they fail, they don't limp very well if at all. Truely mechanical is more easily diagnosed and repaired or put into limp mode. JMO. Glad you got going again.
Can you pin point the exact location of the ECM you unplugged and plugged. Thanks JC 99 320
On our '93 U280, the Allison ECU is mounted on the firewall in front of the driver left knee. If the plugs on the ECU have never been removed, they can be a
very tight fit. I removed my ECU and touch pad - had them rebuilt to correct a "failure to communicate". Hence the pretty photos:
Anybody catch my "Cool Hand Luke" reference in the post above?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2f-MZ2HRHQ
I told my wife, when we bought the FT, that I had a lot to learn about diesel engines and motorhomes, but would rely on the knowledge on the forum, as I did in the past, for my travel trailers. I read these posts to learn how to deal with similar issues, now or in the future. This post caught my eye because I have an M-ll also.
My complaint is that you assume that we can read these posts and know what the cryptic letters mean and where or what is being described. I understand that sometimes you are in a hurry to get a resolution to the problem, but if you put yourself in my place, and simply read what you write, can YOU understand what is being said, if you are new to Foretravel ownership??
Just a few notes from this thread :
VDO ? ;ECU ? ;"at footwell ( where ?) ; fresh Redtops ??; ...to control side of solenoid ( what/where?) ; isolation panel ( what/where ?) ; dash kick panel ( what/where ?) .....you get the drift. Even a sentence like " ...called Coachnet..." What is that?? Should I know about them? I understand the stress of trying to get an answer to the problem. I had a similar, though easier, situation, but this is a common characteristic of these forums, regardless of the topic. How many years of ownership should I look forward to until I can read and understand these posts? Pictures are, indeed, worth a thousand words.
Glenn and Amy,
I totally understand your sense of frustration as new owners. The learning curve is steep, and terminology is a big part of what must be absorbed. Every new owner has been in your place. 4 years ago, we bought our first ever RV of any kind - a Foretravel diesel pusher! I had absolutely ZERO knowledge of RVs/motorhomes/diesel power...I was as green as any person could possibly be.
Today, after MUCH online study and many do-it-yourself projects, and with the PRICELESS help of this Forum, I have a good basic understanding of our coach. Even so, I still learn something new almost every time I log on. You will also get there, but it will take time.
We (the more experienced members) can't be expected to explain every term or reference in every reply we post. It would be too time consuming, too distracting, and a waste of bandwidth. Almost every term and every problem or situation that you could possibly encounter has already been discussed at some time on this Forum. I encourage you to make maximum use of the SEARCH function. Every term you mentioned above, when entered into the search tool, will yield a multitude of hits. Then you just have to take the time to read them, and you will (slowly) understand.
It is a arduous process, but in the end YOU will become one of the experienced members trying (our best) to help the newbies.
Strother Martin, one of my all-time favorite lines! Beautiful pics, by the way. Brett did a neat thing when he upgraded the touchpad, he built a enclosure next to the steering wheel that was at arm's length access, the switch for the Pac-Brake is on the bottom.
It worked so perfect, I always thought that was a stock FT install! ^.^d
Glenn,
You have an excellent point. Perhaps we should put as many abbreviations as we can think of in the Beam tech section.
VDO is the German company that makes the gauges on most of our instrument panels. Speedometer, tachometer, oil pressure, etc.
ECU stands for Electronic Control Unit or computer that controls the fuel system in electronic engines as opposed to the mechanical engines with electricity only needed for the starter and fuel solenoid (the device that lets fuel flow to the fuel injection pump).
Red Tops are batteries designed to start the diesel engine. Yellow Tops are batteries designed for deep cycle as in "coach batteries."
So, use Google search for some of the answers and our search bar toward the top of the page for other answers. As you read the posts, you will gradually begin to understand the new RV language.
Knowing as much about our coaches, diesel engines, filters, air systems, etc will make your RV experience more rewarding and safer. With a 30,000 plus pound rolling apartment, you have a responsibility to your family and those you share the highway with to be as informed as possible.
Lots of YouTube videos to explain how things work in your coach plus videos of hundreds of destinations, campgrounds, etc. A great resource for a newbie to a shell back veteran.
Pierce
Chuck,I agree with your post but we as the posters can take some effort to not use abbreviations that not everyone knows.An
example is the post the other day about the "ats",I was not the only one without a clue.This no crank post is one exception
because your trying to post and about in a panic mode.I totally agree this forum is invaluable and what I try and do is not use
any abbreviations so everyone can understand.Iv'e also come across a few that mean one thing here and another elsewhere.
Glad this problem was resolved, with the help of all on this forum. I read the forum, everyday, use the search ( can be overwhelming, at times !! ), and will keep at it. With your help, we will be part of this " team ". We LOVE our Foretravel, and get real pride in owning one. Thanks.
Let's remember in this topic we had a member essentially broken down with a specific issue, so his post and subsequent responses were directed at solving that issue.
Questions about terms, etc. are always welcome since sharing of information and knowledge are what this forum is about, but in a case of a pressing equipment issue the responses are going to be more of a rapid fire discussion focused on the urgency of the problem. :) In non-emergency topics folks are usually pretty good at filling in the details.
We have experienced a retarder problem where a single wire was not pushed in to the large plug that connects to the Allison ECU. The wire was touching but not far in enough to carry the amps, so diagnostics did not find the problem. Each small wire is terminated with a small round connector, so not only the big plug must be checked, each small wire should also be manually pushed into the removable plug.
One thing that wasn't mentioned in the "no start post" that must not be a problem, is sticking brushes in starters. Mostly a problem for diesels that have been parked for extended periods or that have considerable miles on them and particularly two stroke Detroits. Someone mentioned tapping the solenoid, but a good smack on the side of the starter use to be the remedy for starter problems in the days before electronics, if batteries and cables were not obviously an issue. Bus drivers always carried a hammer and a can of ether.
Wantabe
Here's where it (called TCM or ECM) is on a 95 Grand Villa and on a 97 bus.
jor
We're home! 2,700 Carefree Miles (and a couple of stinkers near the Diesel Pumps.) all is well. Coach operated as designed after pushing/pulling the plug to the module supplying power/control to the Allison keypad.
I'll send a shot of the location when I get the potato chips and stuff shoveled-up from the floor. Nap time.
The Forum really saved us from a bad weekend and unnecessary tow. Thanks to all! I couldn't have done it without y'all. Paul
Paul, after you let the adrenaline subside, can you recap what you would have done differently, in a less stressful setting?? I am "on the fence " reading whether or not to leave the engine running at fuel stops. I want my engine to last a LONG time. Thanks, and , glad you made it home ok
I encountered a no start situation one time. James T helped me troubleshoot the start solenoid. When I got back from that trip I replaced all the solenoids with Blue Sea versions and since then continue to minimize idling.
The last couple of weeks have been complicated by the return of my "No Start/No Crank" situation. The solution to my situation came this morning at around 3:00AM when a "hired gun" who only works on Allison transmissions completed the job, (in my driveway) in less than four hours. Still with me?
The blank screen on the Allison touchpad showed up again after a number of short trips. I called Keith Reisch at MOT who suggested getting Aubrey Lee (also a MOT top resource) involved. Mr. Lee is a champ in my book. He contacted a gifted guy who drove four hours to our home. Lewis Large got here last night and found the cause of our problems. He worked nonstop for about four hours and discovered:
- Corrosion involved in the pin interface had compromised a few pins and receptacles in both A & B plugs. ("B" is Black, I learned.) Snipped the old pins and recrimped a bunch back to factory specs. That didn't light the keypad though.
- Our ECU tested OK as did the keypad, so, wiring was suspect. Lewis found the 18ga. wire shown at the tip of the screwdriver was uncrimped from the adjoining 12ga wires. Bingo
Overall, great experience. We plan to head back to NAC on Sunday to say thanks and buy some BBQ. Thanks to all that helped!
Okay, now the real diagnosis needs to begin. I worked for a plastics extrusion firm and we had a shop foreman who did what I called "VooDoo" diagnostics. When a controller didn't work he'd pull the thing out of its socket and push it back in three or four times and it would sometimes begin to work again. Problem was that he wouldn't tell my maintenance guys that there was a problem because production was back up and running. Great until it happened again and again and again...! The hair dryer thing and the plugging and unplugging action might get you going from the current situation, the fuel island, but you need to determine if it was a partially disconnected plug or a loose connection or whatever. Doomed to have it happen again if you don't and you just know it will be when others are waiting for you to get out of the way.