Keying off of the current topic about the MH fire, I'm looking more closely at replacing our OEM fridge with a residential unit. As you'll see below we have the Intellitec low-voltage control system installed beneath the OEM fridge. I've searched and read most of the posts including the word Intellitec. I found a number of posts about Intellitec and refrigerator including Tom Lang's where he installed the Dan Foss marine unit above the Intellitec.
Below our Intellitec shelf are a couple of slide-out drawers. I'm considering doing away with the drawers and lowering the Intellitec modules to floor level. This should gain about 8" of additional vertical clearance.
The OEM fridge is approx. 59x37x26, so without altering the cabinetry above the fridge we would have approx. 67" in height for a new residential style unit.
I'm skilled in electrical work so another option is to relocate the Intellitec modules. It would be a largish task and would introduce a slew of splices with new possible points of failure over the long haul. One possible new Intellitec location is a storage area in the bathroom hallway (wiring would have to transit the separate water closet room). Another is to a vertically-oriented position where the Bose subwoofer used to live. We have an angle galley floor plan so there's quite a bit of space behind the sink.
What's prevailing wisdom on this?
Watch the height for door opening to the right, where you have the header for the pocket door to contend with. You do not want to mount the fridge all the way up to the ceiling....
IIRC, FOT relocates them, but I don't recall where (ours didn't have Intellitec). It would depend on whether you would still have room for the fridge above (ensuring its door would clear the header) by lowering the current Intellitec pull-out and building a new platform above the pull-out.
Remove the bottom drawer under the stovetop. Is there room under it for the modules? Enough slack in the wires (or they are coming from that direction) to relocate them there?
May have to set up a muffin fan and cut a grill to keep them cool if the new area is really restricted.
Another option is to install a 59" tall fridge. The popular ones are about 10 cu ft 24" wide. Many have installed this size including some who had a larger propane fridge. This would give the coach a good fridge, cost about $400, and the only cabinet work would be to give your more storage next to the fridge.
I had mine lowered and was told by FT not to split them up. It fit a samsung with less then an inch to spare. Had to take the fuse puller off the top. Their is a kick plate now that is removable to access it. I had no issues over the years I had it set up that way.
We have a single door 59x24 refrig now and would like to search for household electric replacements. Which populsr ones are you talking about?
Ron , I posted a couple of weeks ago about one I saw at neighbours house that is a perfect fit for you. I have a whirpool single in coach and it works great on a seperate smaller inverter. Search "residential fridges" and see what comes up.
JohnH Dometic Refrigerator Not Working (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=31267.msg274926#msg274926)
Here is our 5'x2' fridge install. Been in for about 5 years, works great and we dry camp for two weeks in Quartzsite at our Foretravel Lemon Gathering each year.
The only down side is we can now store all the ice cream we want but don't need.
Replacing an Absorbsion Refrigerator with a Residential unit in a 1997 U270 (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/Replacing%20an%20Absorbsion%20Refrigerator%20with%20a%20Residential%20unit/replacing_an_absorbsion_refrigerator_with_a_residential_unit_in_a_1997_u270.html)
Thanks Barry & John. All this MH refrigerator fire discussion has me a bit anxious. Our refrig is just a little over three years old now, but it's never too late to learn as much as you can and be ready for a change.
My 18 year old fridge works just fine. I did add the ARP system to automatically shut it down if overheating is sensed. If you just make sure to level the coach whenever it is stationary, you should be fine.
I agree, an ARP controller is an EXCELLENT addition to any absorption refrigerator. There are many times when driving that boiler temperatures can spike from out of level. Basically any long hill, either up or down puts refrigerator out of level for the whole time you are on that grade.