I have the original Microphor LF220 toilet installed.
The plastic cam broke that operates the flapper.
I ordered and received a new plastic cam and bought a aluminum one also, not sure if I will use it or the plastic.
Before I rip out the toilet for repair I thought I should consider replacing the entire unit. My thought process says whats next to repair after this on the 25+ year old electric toilet. Plus, my wife HATES the black color.
What have you all installed recently, and are you happy with your choice?
Might want to consider a nice light chocolate brown color. Easier to keep clean. >:D >:D
MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
I dumped no pun intended a couple hundred into mine. It's like a Swiss watch. I will be pissed oops did it again if I ever have to get a new one.
I recently installed a thetford Tecma that I bought at Bontragers Rv salvage. I have been quite pleased with it. We replaced a Dometic Vacu Flush 3048.
raised height, elongated bowl, still electric vs. manual flush - hole pattern different, you will have two holes in your floor until you replace the flooring
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a quick search of the forum for
"microphor toilet replacement" brought up 14 posts on the topic
Tim Fiedler
Sure Start Soft Start (http://www.gen-pro.biz)
www.tcerdirect.com (http://www.tcerdirect.com) generator-gas-prod (http://www.generatorgasproducts.com) 630 240-9139
Gen-Pro
We had one of those Microphor deals in our 300. I removed it and broke it to pieces with a sledgehammer - very satisfying. We replaced with a tall boy Sealand manual. No more problems.
jor
Lon,
You don't have to remove the toilet to change that cam. It's not a big job.
Can't remember the exact procedure but if you remove power at the correct point during a flush you won't have to fight that spring during replacement.
The plastic cam is all ready broken in two.
I used to fit my hand in there to clean the contact surfaces but never to try a repair. Very little room to work and my hands are NOT as nimble as before, nor is my body ready to do contortions to try to get that perfect angle of attack.
I took Johns advice and went for another look at repair. As usual John was correct, the toilet could be repaired without removal.
After reading countless internet posts and complaints on the "new" electric toilets and the problems with them I thought a repair on the Microphor if possible would do.
I replaced the cam with the aluminum version, replaced the main water line, o-ring, cleaned and lubed the gasket with silicone, All is well, works like a charm and saved over $500.
So Lon, what color are you going to paint the throne? :))
Nice job Lon, and probably done in time for happy hour!
With plumbing stuff the less stuff I take apart, the fewer leaks I have to fix when I'm done.
Truer words were never spoken!
Lon,
Great toilet, just a little finicky/temperamental.
The trick to keeping water from leaking past the seal after storing the coach is: before storage, flush and shut off the tank 12 volt power switch in mid- cycle (leaving the flap open). That way the rubber seal does not become dry and imprinted. Then when ready to use it again, re-lube the rubber seal with waterless plumber's grease and clean the ceramic rim.
Letting the seal get dry while stored and pressed against the porcelain rim is guaranteed to make it leak water past the seal later.
Don 't ask me how I know this.
Jim
2002 U320 with a Microphor toilet
how do you turn off the switch in mid cycle?
Hi Glenn,
For a Microphor LF-220 electric toilet, remove the tank lid to find the black rocker switch mounted on the horizontal plate just inside the tank. That switch controls the 12 VDC power to the toilet. Flush the toilet as usual.then stop the flapper movement when it is wide open with the switch. Never, repeat never, force the flapper open for cleaning, etc. because that may break these expensive plastic parts.
As said before don't ask me how I know these parts can break.
Removing the toilet is the easiest way to make repairs. You may find the parts and installation manual online or from Beam Alarm. Call Microphor at 800-358-8280 for help and parts. I haven't had much luck finding parts on EBay or Amazon.
Other models or other brands may vary considerably in design not allowing this procedure.
Jim
2002 U320 42'
The flap is suppose to be closed with a water seal so you don't get sewer gas in the coach. The water on top of the valve takes the place of the trap in a home plumbing fixture to keep sewer gas out. A little plumbers grease on that seal every few months and no problems.
As a follow up to Jim's info once you have the flapper in the full open position to keep the sewer smell contained and possibly sewer flies(even after a sewer tank wash down) we insert a section of a Nerf football that has been cut in half (the direction of cut that will make it look like 2 "B" cup ta-tas) into the opening in place of the flapper.
Pamela
Hi John,
My suggestions are for storing the coach with the black tank flushed and empty - not for daily use of the coach. The seal continues to work the best when it never dries out.
Jim
2002 U320 42'