Onan 6500 marquis.
Solid solonoid thunk, but unit will not crank.
Batteries (coach) show 13 volts
Chassis also 13.
Help?
Pull out 10 amp fuse is good, cycled breakers on side.
Did check oil, took just a tad.
Unit started right up before we left.
Solenoid may be corroded or dirty. Try pressing start button several times quickly, then hold.
Nope, lots of clicky click, no vroom vroom
Dumb question #27.
How the heck do you operate the slide to pull the darn thing (generator tray) out!!??
not made to slide out easily
Use boost button after starting engine then fast idle just to see if low amps.
Cabling from everything to everything.
With a helper, check voltage at every terminal connection from batteries to gen, when trying to crank. Sounds like you have a terminal connection that has decided to not conduct high current.
Duh!
Pull really hard?
No latches?
Attempted boost trick. No go.
Will check voltages later. I see I need to pack a volt meter.
if the voltage is good, then the starter may be going bad. check the connections to the starter as well. make sure they are clean and tight with no corrosion.
Dry camping at a Wal-Mart for the night. Will figure out things in the am, or when I get a volunteer and a volt meter.
Worse yet, their coolers are down, and no cold adult beverages available!
THE SHAME OF IT ALL!
Disconnect exhaust system then use a fork lift to support the gen as you slide it out. Cabling may need unhooking
Mine has a bolt on each side at the bottom. If you do not remove those, you will have to pull really, really hard!
Trent
Try giving the starter a good whack...... bendex or solenoid may be stuck
Wal mart has volt meters sometimes in their hardware section of tools.
Reach up from under the generator and use a long screwdriver, etc to prying gently on the fan blade, to turn over the generator-- just to confirm that the motor is not locked up.
Next, check voltage between large positive lug on the generator to good clean metal on the generator both before and while cranking. Then check between the positive lug and good clean chassis metal as a ground. The second test to determine if the ground path is the problem (the bearings of the generator slide IS the ground path, and not a great one).
Let us know what you find.
Do let us know, that's the same ultra quiet unit we have. Give us the hours after you find some cold beer! ^.^d
Also recommend packing a clamp-on DC current meter. Here are some more ideas:
- Clamp current meter on the large 12V cable to generator, try cranking, a high current (say 100+ amps) and no crank will indicate a locked generator or starter. If reading only small current for solenoid (say under 10 amps), then more checking for bad connections...
- Another way to test Brett's idea of a bad ground is to measure voltage between the generator frame and a good clean point on the coach chassis while trying to crank. There should be NO voltage, if ground is flaky there will be measurable voltage between generator frame and coach chassis.
If you jump across the solenoid and it cranks the solenoid is bad. If you can use jumper cables from a good battery (toad?) to the side of the solenoid going to the starter and it doesn't crank the starter has failed. If both of the tests fail you don't have enough amps from the coach/generator battery. Just checking the voltage will not tell all if it is not checked when trying to start. Hope this helps.
If you find the solenoid is bad make sure that you get an Onan solenoid. There will be a part number on the Onan solenoid and no a Ford starter solenoid is not the same.
All great suggestions. Please keep them coming. Currently at a camp in Old Mystic, running off shore power. Will be home tomorrow with my tools and testers. Intend to keep you all updated
This shake down cruise has taught me a couple of things:
1) It's not IF things go wrong, its WHEN they go wrong.
2) gonna need a bigger tool kit.
Try moving around the fuse holder while trying to start it. My fuse checked out good, but the fuse holder was bad, when I moved it around it made a connection and started. Let us know what you find.
Michael, in your case, did the unit crank?
When I pulled my fuse and holder it did nothing.
Yes in my case it was cranking.
Ok.
I give up.
Managed to do some voltage testing.
13.6 positive lead to generator body, 13.6 positive lead to chassis.
13.5 when cranking.
At a camp tonight, went to show a neighbor what was going on, and she starts right up.
Go figure.
Did you have the same no-start symptoms when using the one switch on the generator itself VS the in-coach switch???
I thought it wouldn't crank.
My bad. Attempting to crank.
Did get it to crank right over and start. Ran for 1/2 hour, let it cool down (removed load) and shut down.
Attempted to start again and no cranky.
All three switches gave same symptoms, but could not measure voltage.
Since it ran this evening, I'm going with the motor is not seized, Brett.
Sounds like a bad connection or a faulty starter motor
Put a test light on the starter solenoid, check for good volts , bright light. FWIW I have a 25 ft test light wire, so I can sit in the seat and check functions /watch the pretty light.
A power probe makes trouble shooting a lot easier. They come with a 25' cord and a 25' extension, battery clips and lighter adaptor. The model I use also has a volt meter built in.
Amazon.com: Power Probe PP3LS01 Power Probe III Circuit Tester with PPLS01... (https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-PP3LS01-Circuit-Tester/dp/B007QV0R7W/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1500261587&sr=8-6&keywords=power+probe+3)
I apologise, its been a while since I've updated this post. Life gets in the way sometimes.
Red Tractor wins. It is indeed a bad starter motor. At the shop now getting it taken care of so we can head south to watch the Sun get gobbled up.
As always, thanks for the great suggestions.