It seems like there are no two bulkhead repairs that are the same and mine is no different. My actual bulkhead joint wasn't too bad at all, but the steel under the tanks and around the openings was. I learned a lot from Don & Tys repair but decided I didn't like the idea of welding upside down for half the job - and I'm a novice welder.
So I came up with an idea to do a partial basement floor replacement where I could comfortably build up a new section independently on saw horses, flip it over when needed, and work at bench height. The FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic) skins were vacuum bonded to the frame except for an 18" flap on top and bottom where the new and the old steel frames get welded together. After welding, the foam insulation was added in the flap section and the FRP flaps were bonded using clamps.
Some updated feature from OEM:
- Trap door is on edge of floor so the cables and hoses don't have to be fed through a hole. This became a standard Foretravel method a few years after mine was built.
- Since rusting on my floor was worst around the openings, I decided to use 304 stainless steel around the trap door and on the door itself. I used 1.5" square tubing and angle.
- Rerouted the fresh tank overflow and added a sensor to automatically turn off the fill valve.
- Replaced refrigerator with a residential. I have an SAI (Side Isle) floor plan where the frig is not against an exterior wall (where a vented door could provide air for the propane burner) but in the middle of the coach. As such, FT installed a vertical tunnel through the basement storage area to supply fresh air to the burner. Since the tunnel was right in the area where I was building a new basement floor, I took the opportunity to remove the tunnel and install a new residential unit. I did however maintain the same steel tubing location in case I wanted to go back to propane; all I would have to do is router out the FRP and foam.
This first set of photos is of the tear down.
New Frame (first 10 of 20 images)
New frame (11-20 images)
Rear sheet metal panel being repaired
Fresh water tank overflow (details on auto-shutoff to come later).
John,
That was a lot of work. Nice job and documentation! It's nice when you have the facilities to do that type of work. Love doing these type of projects. We just don't have the facility to work anymore. I miss having the shop area to work. I make the best out of my coachport in Florida.
John M.
Wow that is a great write up and a lot of work. Well done.
I agree that this was a outstanding post with explanations for each photo. Nice job
John,
Excellent.
Any picture of joining the front of the new section to the original beaming?
Did you sister them?
Awesome work John! I am glad you had the shop to work in... I can't begin to estimate the amount of time (not to mention energy!) it cost me to haul everything out in the morning and reverse the process each night to work on the coach. Congratulations on job well done! ^.^d
Don
Very impressive, nice fab work. Looking to start the same project is n the near future. Thanks for sharing ^.^d
Nice work John..... b^.^d b^.^d
Great how to do it post. I bookmarked it, but hope to never have to use the bookmark.
Great work John!! ^.^d
John, thanks for the effort to document the work of which you can be very proud.
How much to do the same for mine? I don't have a problem as far as I know, but wow what work!!!!
Could be a nice side business. Second and subsequent always much faster!
Thank you all for the compliments.
Yes, I love having a shop; all 1600 ft
2Another advantage I have is a CAD (Comuputer Aided Design) tool. It helps me plan out and play with possibilities. Doing drawings is another benefit with a cut list for the materials (see attached .PDF as an example).
I use Solidworks at home and NX at my job as a mechanical engineer on locomotives.
To answer Brett's question:
Here's a shot of the new and old in one picture. When I cut out the original section, I left about 11" of the old angle on each side so I could stitch weld the new tube on each side to it. I didn't want to have one location (from drivers side to passengers side) that had all welds. So the only thing different from OEM is a butt joint weld on the angle on the passengers and drivers side.
On the drawing it shows the thin tubing as 0.07" wall. That's incorrect; I used 16 gauge. I used a library tube section in the CAD system that was .065" and the computer rounded it up to .07". I purchased 16 gauge (verses 18 gauge OEM) because I thought 18 might be too hard to weld without blowing holes in it.
Tim,
I work way too slow for anyone to want to pay me, let alone the wait. This is all in the hobby category; best to not to count hours or dollars or you will ruin the fun.
Really nice neat work. Two thumbs up!!
Pierce
you and Don blow me away with your quality. Wow.
Yes, I build boats - wouldn't build one for anyone but me or family - like you said, hobby, not work.....
I was able to leave the original inch and a half by .125" angle iron for all but the section that was aft of the utility notch on the driver's side. However, I added 1 1/4" X 1 1/4" X .125" angle iron nested inside the inch and a half angle iron and stitch welded as well as port welded (drilled holes every so many inches in the nested part to weld through) so that there was essentially 1/4" thick laminated angle iron along the outside edges. Maybe a bit over kill, but when I reinstalled the aluminum trim, I had ample thickness to tap the holes for the trim and used 10-32 stainless flathead screws countersunk flush with the trim. I did have to grind a round over the corner of the nested angle iron to allow it to nest properly. Anyway, it was worth it to feel that there was more integrity to have continuous quarter inch thick steel connecting the front bulkhead to the back. Here is a few pictures to explain what I mean about nesting the angle iron. I used a short piece of inch and a half angle iron to act as a template for checking the fit, which is visible in the picture which shows the length of the piece.
Don
Amazing work!
Impressive work John. Thanks for the write up!
see ya
ken
I am speechless. What quality and attention to detail. I only wish I had a fraction of your talent. Great job.
I did a similar FW overflow project, although I had enough room (just barely!) to go into the bathroom closet where the washer hook ups are. I have driven with 100% full fresh and it does not slosh. I am very interested in your auto shut off idea... looking forward to details!
Don
yes I too am impressed with the quality of work, and thought gone into this rebuild. Your repairs along with Don's are the textbook solutions to this problem and far surpass any "commercial" repairs seen so far. Yes, I am aware that the time taken would be a big bill to pay if done this way by one of the "shops" but never the less a repair for "all time"
Congrat's.
JohnH