I need to re-bond my fiberglass door panel to the luan skin on the door. I have used contact cement many times, but doesn't always hold, at least consumer quality. It was contact cemented from the factory, and came apart. I admit it got moister in it. It wicked up from the bottom.
I have used Gorilla glue with great success, but it really expands, no matter how much I clamp it. What have you had good luck with?
I was thinking of using surfacing resin?
Picture is of inside door, have not completed repair yet. Just ground off minor rust, and sprayed rust killer on it.I am also adding another steel brace half way up the bottom section. Too much span for me, with just Styrofoam backing.
Thanks..Chris
I have been using this for many different surfaces. I also use the 90 version it lets both sides be sprayed.
3M™ Super 77™ Multipurpose Spray Adhesive (http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Super-77-Multipurpose-Spray-Adhesive?N=5002385+3293242460&rt=rud)
Chris,
I would call 3M tech support and see what they recommend. They're the gold standard.
3m 5200.....
Tim Fiedler
Sure Start Soft Start (http://www.gen-pro.biz)
TCER Direct (http://www.tcerdirect.com) generator-gas-prod (http://www.generatorgasproducts.com) 630 240-9139
Gen-Pro
Laminating resin works very well. Some used for kayaks is flexible.
Craneman
With all do respect, that is the worse stuff, it won't even hold fabric when it gets hot. tried it many times.I thought the high dollar 3M # 90 would be better, been re-gluing my valance's 2 or 3 times when they get hot.
An upholstery friend told me the same thing.
When I had my Van shop, we had a green glue that was killer. And the red one is pretty awesome too. Commercial grade in 5 gallon pail. But it appears that is what they used on the door.
Weldwood contact brush on (or with spray gun) works much better.
Thanks for the input
Chris
Chris,
Just out of curiosity, what is holding the luan to the steel frame?
I used epoxy to attach FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) to the steel on my bulkhead project and used a shop vac to hold it during curing. Bulkhead Repair (Partial Floor Replacement) (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=31694.msg280642#msg280642)
Epoxy is mostly a mechanical bond so the scratches from coarse sanding give it something to hold on to.
My understanding is 5 minute epoxy is not waterproof (and probably has too little of a work time for that project).
I discovered that the FRP sheets bonded on both sides with the insulation board between the steel stiffened up the structure enormously; even with similar spans between steel as on your door (largest foam piece is 22" x 23" on my basement floor). The bonding needs to be on the whole surface, foam included. I would think you would get similar results with your different skin material.
If that's going a bit too far for you, I would consider some of the construction adhesives you find a the home stores. Liquid nails is an older name but there are some new ones that look quite impressive and are easy to use. I would make sure it's outdoor rated and thus should be waterproof.
What about this stuff?
3M Products Automix Panel Bonding Adhesive 08115 - Free Shipping on Orders... (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tes-08115?seid=srese2&cm_mmc=pla-msn-_-shopping-_-srese2-_-3m)
I am leaning toward construction adhesive. Just trowel it on.Going to Home Cheapo this morning
Thanks Chris
That one looks interesting. I have used that on car body work jobs. Not sure how it will work with fiberglass and wood. It only reads for metal.
Thanks
Chris, most construction adhesive is relatively thick and responds to air very quickly. Be Shure to have your clamping fixture ready. The reason I suggest a polyester resin is that it is the basic component of the door skin, bonds to wood very well, and you can control the setting time. Good luck!
Thanks, that is a trip. I got some good "Lock Tight"adhesive at Home Depot, but was thinking the same thing on the way home. Toweling it, may be an issue. Need to re-think this.
The H.D. guy agreed that contact cement of any kind, is not the way to go. High heat makes it release.Seen that also too many times.
Thanks
I would call Xtreme and speak to James
Round top entry door was purchased from Winnebago as far as I remember..
Maybe call them?
They are PTL doors......Remember the big tool to bend them? Did a few of them
Our Products - PTL Engineering (http://ptlengineering.com/products/)
UPDATE:
Got the door solenoid installed. Wanted to add it to the dead bolt, just couldn't get it to work correct. I installed a 2 way momentary switch by the door with diodes. I can latch, unlatch just the entry, while not messing with the alarm or compartments (for night time dog walks) I'll post the trick adjustable door pin for the wires. That was a challenge in itself to install. Man, those hinges are stainless steel!
This is where we are at with the de-lam. Time will tell if I used the right thing. I believe so.It names everything there is to glue. Fiberglass, wood etc. Its flexible, and oil based. Illegal in California, so it must be good..LOL
All the trim is clean, and ready to go back together. Giving it the weekend to dry good.
I took everything off to look for bubbles etc. It was looking good.
Cheers
Door pin:
Dakota Digital Magnum Shooters MGS-2 - SummitRacing.com (https://proshop.summitracing.com///parts/DAK-MGS-2)
Professional looking repair Chris.
Good luck with it.
Got confused. Definitely a PraiseTheLord door.
I was going to say that. You did remember....LOL
Ready to rock this thing....No more wavie, wavie. Tight as a drum