As an update for all those kind members who have helped me on this, I received the very disheartening news today from the RnR Service Center in Spokane that my coach bulkhead corrosion is so bad that they won't even work on it.
The Service Manager wanted to coordinate with Foretravel to find a way forward to do the repair, but a shop supervisor vetoed the project. I'm stunned to the point of not having any idea how to proceed, but it looks like this otherwise beautiful GV may be headed to the scrapyard. I would not risk a trip to Texas with the coach structure in this condition.
Many thanks to all who have contributed information, advice and suggestions.
hmmmm.
Take off the bottom ski and weld external bracing on the floor structure to get you to NAC?
Issue may be $$$ cost of repair well exceeds value of coach
seems like a handy DIY guy might want the project, but paying to have it done may not make any sense if much of rear frame is compromised aft of bulkhead joint.
Do better pictures of damage existnow that it has been opened up?
Call Keith at MOT and get his second opinion from a distance. - Let us know what he says.
Tim Fiedler
Sure Start Soft Start (http://www.gen-pro.biz)
TCER Direct (http://www.tcerdirect.com) generator-gas-prod (http://www.generatorgasproducts.com) 630 240-9139
Gen-Pro
I got a local welding shop to rebuild mine, in place using truck lifts (it was worse than yours) and cost me less than $3000 for them to cut metal out and weld in new. I did all the finishing work myself.
You dont need to scrap your rv. You just need to find a gritty welding shop, not a fancy rv service center.
Agree. But, I would start by taking prospective shops/welders pictures of the repair from here in the ForeForum. This would also be predicated on you doing a lot of the "non-welding" work to keep costs rational for your year model coach. Still requires quite a lot of mechanical skill, but it is NOT overly complex.
Buy the one in Texas and consolidate the best part s.
I would say that you could probably find a welding shop to prep the coach for a trip to NAC for an hourly rate price that shouldn't break the bank. Without an up close and personal look at the damage, a few avenues to consider... Without removing the bottom skin, have tabs of at least quarter inch thick steel welded to the angle iron just out board of the shackles, extending downward just below the bottom skin. Repeat on the front in line with the tabs in the rear. These tabs could be angle iron, channel, or what have you. If there is separation in the rear joint, you can push it closed by putting a bottle jack near the rear most air springs. Raising the ram in the jacks (do it equally on both sides!) will push down on the rear of the "H" frame forcing the joint to close. Don't over do this, as rust jacking may preclude the joint from closing all the way. Now you simply have to tie each set of tabs together. It could be done with welding long pieces of angle iron on each set of tabs (I once met a guy who did this as a permanent repair, though he used four tabs on each end with four pieces of angle iron, picture below). It could also be done with all thread (say 1/2"), tension cables, etc. The point is keeping the joint stable so you can make it safely to a place to do the repair to your satisfaction. You may have to talk to several welders until you find somebody who listens and maybe contributes their own ideas on a temporary fix that will do the job and it shouldn't cost that much. The permanent repair may be a different story, and to that end you should have been in communication with the prospective shop who will do the repair, giving them as much information, high res pictures, etc. as possible. I don't think that this issue is a reason to scrap an otherwise good coach. Once done and with good stewardship as an owner, the repair could be a source of good peace of mind. I know that my coach's bulkhead is stronger than it needs to be by a good margin and I get good satisfaction when I look underneath and see it looking straight and strong!
Don
Don, your coach could probably take a hit from a roadside IED and survive with only cosmetic damage.
Don't know how much of a DIYer you are but if you have the space, it's a lot of work but can be done with someone looking over your shoulder. Steel is really cheap if you go to a supplier, not a welding shop. I get all mine at Del Paso Pipe & Steel Inc. | Sacramento, CA | Pipe Cutting (http://www.delpasopipeandsteel.com/) . I am just using this as an example as there will be supplier like this close to you. A few tools like a $200 metal cutting band saw, sawzall, some grinders and a wire feed welder are most of what is needed. A wire fee welder is pretty easy to use and makes stick welding look hard. Probably would want to rent one and hire a welder off Craigslist. Lots of retired welders with knowledge and with the photos, it gives them a starting point.
I'm sure if you drove it to the Portland shop, you could drive it most anywhere. Don't give up on your coach!!! It's going to cost a lot less than the trans cooler failure in the recent posts.
Good quote from above: "You dont need to scrap your rv. You just need to find a gritty welding shop, not a fancy rv service center."
Pierce
Sorry, but the truth is, they are just too busy to deal with it. If they were hungry, they would be all over it.
They turned several jobs away, I wrote up, because they didn't want to mess with it.
Give Chewy at RV men a call. He is a small time guy (insured and bonded). He was assigned my tech at R&R , Ericksons RV in CDA (when in business), and La mesa RV.We have also done many jobs together.I have referred many to him.
He has family that do excellent welding and do all this stuff, including fiberglass. They work at other RV stores, but moonlight all the time for Chewy.They also worked in all the RV manufactures in So Cal at one time.
He will do a good job and it won't break you. Use my name.
Chewy
509 280 1627
He has a shop in Otis Orchards, but not a store front.
Don't give up, I am sorry for this drama.
Have you discussed this situation with the previous owner? Not trying to cause trouble, but it might be worth a call to him/her.
Chris thanks very much for this info and referral. I will call Chewy in the morning. Very encouraging to know there are other options locally, as I was very depressed after speaking with RnR this afternoon.
I completely agree and would provide all of the photos and work descriptions I've gotten here to the designated shop.
As discouraged as I was earlier, I am now beginning to see possibilities for restoring the structural damage.
Many thanks!
Our coach is getting "the ribs" improved in NAC. MOT has completed 23 projects such as ours with a local welding shop. Ours is in line for 24th operation of this type between the two companies. Don't despair just yet.
I like many of the postings above. Once the work is completed, you (and future owners) will have a solid understanding of what was done to improve your coach. Pretty easy decision if you know that she will be a keeper when you're finished, IMHO. Hang tough and good luck.
Even with the added cost of fixing this bulkhead added to your purchase cost. You still could not get into a new coach with even a 1/10th the quality of what you have or even a tow behind pos camper. Yes maybe you will have more in it than its worth on paper, But you didn't buy it to sell. Fix it up and enjoy it. Plus you will have the Cool factor of driving a classic Grand Villa!
If it comes to it, before you scrap it, make it drivable and move it out to the lake !
A summer home!
They just wanted you to go away.
I talked to another guy in Spokane, Tyler, who is now building race car chassis. He did some stuff for me in the spring. He also worked at R&R.Was an RV tech. He is going to call me Monday, and we will discus it, and what you need. I think he was racing this weekend and couldn't talk.
He seems interested. He would do an incredible job, as he did on my RC. It wouldn't be an arm leg, or your 1st born or soul either.
Hang tight.
Chris
Don't give up! You just need to find a guy who doesn't mind working for a living. I had to replace almost all the basement floor frame in my 89. It's a pretty straight forward fix once you get started. Be a shame to abandon an otherwise great coach because of this. It's not as bad as it would seem. If a monkey like me can fix this issue himself I'm sure you'll be able to find a guy. Get your facts straight so you can explain to a shop whats needed. A simple straight forward explanation will help a prospective shop be less afraid to get involved. Great info on this issue to be found here on the forum. The above posters have made there coaches stronger then when they were new. The Achiles heel for these old girls but when fixed you can ride with confidence.
Don't be scared!
Good luck.
Andy, thanks. I now agree, after all of the advice and encouragement I have received here. I have been given a referral to a shop close by with a technician who knows the FT and is capable of doing the work. I am keenly interested in getting on with it as my coach is otherwise immaculate and low miles--much too good to scrap.
Chris thanks again. I will wait to do anything until you hear from your contact. I am in Alaska for the week anyway and won't be back in Spokane to move the Coach until next Sat.
I am glad you found someone.
I need you to fix this coach. If you decide to scrap it I would be too tempted to make a purchase that would likely lead to me having to live in it when de found out.
I'm in the market... I'll buy it.
1991 Foretravel Motorhome - Diesel 36' Gran Villa Reduced - ,000 - rvs -... (https://asheville.craigslist.org/rvs/6245954386.html)