We have a multi state two weeks out of town trip coming up. I wanted to get some essentials to have with me such as a spare Solenoid.
What's the difference between Cole Hersee (24059-BP) 12V Insulated SPST Continuous Duty Solenoid (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064MX7US/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1) &
Cole Hersee 24059 12V Insulated Continuous Duty SPST Solenoid (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Y82X4E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1) I assume get the Insulated one ? I had some essentials like this on my previous FT. Thank God never used them but made me feel good having them. So on our Current FT until the battery Isolator went bad last week, I had spaced out the gathering of some small but sometime hard to get in a hurry spare parts. Well this task also pocked at me this pass Saturday when I had 6 new tires installed, I kept one for spare.
So besides an extra Engine and a Transmission would you tell me what do you have with you? I need to make a list of applicable part numbers for my 03/295 Solenoid, relay kind of stuff.
Just in addition to what was perhaps discussed before on here like this one Redundancy: what spare parts do you travel with? (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=13216.msg72127#msg72127) Some what specific to 2002-2004 model years.
Sorry, didn't see an amp rating on either one (did not try to research, just quick look at the link).
http://www.littelfuse.com/products/dc-solenoids-and-relays/standard-high-current-relays/continuous-duty-spst/24059.aspx
I think 200Amp
Continuous current 85 A
These have 85A continuous duty contacts.
Most get the 24213 - 200A continuous duty solenoid - 37.00
Yes, buy the Amazon.com: Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24213-Continuous-Solenoid/dp/B005K2429I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501533841&sr=8-1&keywords=cole+hersee+24213) Multiple uses for ignition, boost, etc. It's continuous duty and has the silver tungsten carbide contacts. When installing, use either one of the small lugs as polarity does not matter.
If you have the $$$, buy the solid state type. They don't fail (or not supposed to).
Pierce
Dave,
This one was the ignition solenoid i had kept as a spare in my previous 94/225. I wonder it is also used widely on the later year models. I recall one that looks like is install right next to the Isolator on my current 03/295 in the engine bay forward wall.
Pierce,
When you say "$$$, buy the solid state type" do you mean like this one Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 9012 Solenoid Switch L-Series 12-24V : Boating... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MMH2Y8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) ?
Thanks,
AL
Yes, the $150 is why I put the $$$ on it. Several members have them installed and have not heard of any problems.
Pierce
That is not a solid state relay. It has a coil and plunger: "Integrated coil control minimizes heating and amperage draw "
I'm not sure solid state truly exist for DC loads. Here's some info: ac - Can I control a load of 12v DC with a solid state relay 24-380VAC? -... (https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/251858/can-i-control-a-load-of-12v-dc-with-a-solid-state-relay-24-380vac)
Spare parts
Fuel filters
Fan belts
Tie raps
Duck tape
Voltage meter
Test light
Ratchet tie straps
Teflon tape
Engine oil
40ft of jumper wire. .
Add coolant and drier by-pass to reply 9
Krush,
Good point. I didn't have any idea. Wonder what the failure rate is on the Blue Seas compared to the garden variety Cole-Hersee?
Pierce
I had Blue Seas for ignition on our previous FT & a Cole-Hersee for spare. Blue Sea worked without any issues for 3 years (sold the 94/U225)
Check this post by Chuck... I will attach a picture of the parts needed (also from Chuck). The picture shows two kits... one assembled, and the other as components. I think this kit should be in the top 3 spares, along with the necessary tools to install.
Don
Air Dryer Bypass Demo (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=22007.msg165793#msg165793)
Don,
Excellent for spares! Make sure you have the correct wrench to loosen the fittings. They are really tight in many cases. Ours were. A crow's foot works well. All of our hoses took a 1" but one of the replacements was 1-1/16". These fitting are pretty cheap at a truck store.
Pierce
Good point Pierce! When I had my "10 hours in h@ll stuck by the road side in the middle of nowhere with semis blowing by at speed" moment, getting those fittings off (from underneath a coach that I couldn't raise because I couldn't build air) was a herculean task that I don't wish to repeat! Which brings up some details about this tow hook saving set of parts that anyone who wants to tackle this should know. Chuck did the smart thing in the thread I linked above by getting these parts together and figuring out what to do when he wasn't by the side of the road. I didn't have a "kit" made up and in fact had no idea of how to proceed. I made the bypass kit out of fittings removed from the air dryer and a 1/2" brass gate valve (think coupler) that I had in my plumbing spares. The threads on one elbow of the 90º fittings are regular male pipe thread (tapered), and sealed with teflon tape or pipe thread sealant. The other side of the elbow has a 37º JIC tapered flare (http://pressureconnections.com/customer/prcoco/customerpages/literature/Steel_JIC_Fittings.pdf) and seals without sealant. The JIC flare is different than what is used in LP systems and is commonly found in hydraulic systems. Anyway, the pipe thread end is what is screwed into the dryer housing and is a bear to remove, so not having to dig them out of the dryer while broke down is a leg up on getting back on the road to where you can fix it more permanently. So it would be a good idea to have the parts already assembled loosely with the teflon tape applied ready to make the final turn to set the best angle to meet up with your air lines. It is an eerie feeling to be cruising along the highway looking for some place to pull off the road before your spring brakes engage while the air pressure alarm is sounding and the air gauge reading is steadily dropping! Of course, preventative maintenance on the air dryer is the beat way to avoid having that happen, but even so it is good to know that you can overcome the failure of the air dryer system. Here is a link to my roadside breakdown... Was: Air won't build... Now: Air Dryer fitment (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=21975.msg165243#msg165243)
Don
The BlueSea solenoid is rated for ONE MILLION CYCLES. Not aware of anyone who has experienced a failure.
Mike, yours is not near that mark, but probably high enough so you need to let us know if it fails-- I was the FIRST to use it, as I was familiar with BlueSea from our sailboats.
Solenoid: Blue Sea vs. Cole-Hersee
I ended up going with the Blue Sea as I had a new $65 Cole Hersee fail in less than a year.
jor
Not really spare parts but
Rope for throttle, or other things
Foil duct tape
JB weld
Hose clamps
Reflective safety vest
Orange hand cleaner
Tyvec coveralls
1/2" stack of 20 & 50's for a local mechanic or farmer who can find almost any part or a temporary substitute
Thanks to Chuck, I was able to diagnose stuck unloaders I wasn't aware of on my big air compressor with a drier bypass. My compressor kept building air past the cut-off pressure after I bypassed the drier. I changed air governors and had the same result. After a lot of head scratching, I finally remembered that that the reservoir sends an air signal to the unloader port at the same time as the drier to purge. If the unloaders are stuck and don't come off their seats as in my case the compressor will keep building air. If the drier is purging correctly it won't build past the cut-off, will continue to cycle and you won't know the unloaders are stuck!
I believe water in the system over time as a result of poor air drier maintenance caused this. Using a drier by-pass is also a good way to check the operation of the compressor unloaders.
Jerry