I have just removed all the various battery connections to my house batteries to do a load test on each one. All OK, BUT when I connect everything back together I left the main NEG lead until last and got a big spark???
So disconnect the POS main lead and connect the NEG lead. Try and attach the POS lead and another big spark??
I obviously have a load somewhere, but, where??
The Salesman switch is OFF, the Boost switch is OFF, what am I doing wrong??
Speedbird 1.
You did nothing wrong. There are loads on the batteries at all times refrigerator Propane sniffer inverter charger and parasitic loads that I have never bothered to look for. I run about an amp or so of loads with everything shut off.
Roland
Correct. As Roland said, there are a number of 12 VDC loads not controlled through the salesman switch.
Thank you guys. I knew there were loads on all the time, but thought they were very small?? This was quite a big spark or maybe I am chicken??
Is the a circuit breaker that will allow me to connect with out the arc??
Speedbird 1
How big of an arc do you get? You have to expect a few sparks when you make the connection. Are you plugged into shore power? If so, the charger/converter will try and charge the house batteries and if low, you will get a good sized spark. Check voltage with digital meter with ground disconnected and then connect. Read voltage again. You can't get a shock. Make sure you have the polarity correct on the batteries! That CAN make an arc.
Without being there, it's hard to judge the size of the spark/arc.
Pierce
A heavy duty battery disconnect switch such as the one in the picture below will do the job, but it does involve some cable making and wire management... https://baymarinesupply.com/wiring/switches/blue-sea-battery-switch-3000.html (https://baymarinesupply.com/wiring/switches/blue-sea-battery-switch-3000.html)
The various build numbers, models and years may vary quite a bit, but our 99' U270 didn't have any way of disconnecting all loads before removing the cables. There is a 90 amp resettable breaker (not sure if those non switched loads are connected to it, but it feeds the salesman switch by the door if memory serves), but it doesn't have a way to turn it off... just a reset button.
Don
Thanks everyone. No disconnect on this year, 2001`. You just have to shove it on the connector quickly and not be gentle!!!
It is now all connected and does not "leak smoke" , and is not warm, so I guess I did it right!!!!!!!!! Actually no way to mess up with the big leads the way they are set.
Once again thank you and another person thankful for this forum yet again.
Speedbird 1 (AKA Super Chicken) Me no like big sparks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I got tired of worrying whether I put the wrong cable on the wrong post.
So, being a dumbass and willing to recognize my memory is starting to get faulty now that I am past 75 (just--one month and three days), I decided to do something about it.
I used my vibratory etch pen to mark each battery terminal 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. I have three batteries, one house and two engine batteries (long story)
Then I proceeded to put cable ties to match the post they go on. White cable ties on pos. Black ties on neg.
1 tie for each cable on post 1, 2 cable ties for each cable that goes on post 2, and so on.
When I go to replace any batteries I will have to mark the new posts first before putting the new batteries in place.
I use a label tape with the Foretravel cable/wire number repeated several times and then wrapped around the cable. This is OEM on all cables but ours had faded. I also put POS and NEG on a second tape and then wrap it. Get the cable/wire code off the schematic.
Taking a smart phone photo of everything helps too.
Pierce
Oh, yes I also took pictures and made a sketch, but fortunately my cables all had a set on them and even I could not put them back in the wrong place?? And, yes I am past the dreaded 70 mark so nothing is impossible??
Having been bought up with Lucas electrics in cars, motorcycles and airplanes, (remember the Prince of Darkness) any spark will result in a smoke leak, hence the caution.
Many thanks all,
Speedbird 1.
An understatement at best. Twice, my AH Sprite started smoking under the dash. Had to replace the entire wiring harness....2x in a couple of years. Remember the voltage regulators? Rodents feasted on the fabric covered wires. As a kid, I worked for a large foreign car dealership. Two Datsun warranty claims in a year but each morning there was a long line around the corner for English brands and American Motors warranty work.
Also past the seven zero mark. My temper has just gotten worse so others dread encountering me.
Pierce
Pierce..
Must have been the same dealership I "wrenched" at for many years....Datsun,Fiat,Alfa,Ferrari....Oh and Jag/MG/Austin a few years before.
Love the old stuff...
Don,
That's a really nice neat job on the battery compartment. I love the rack on glides so you can just slide it out. First class!!
Hans, loved the interior of the Jags. Great leather smell and Wilton carpets. Not so much love on working on them with the pesky SU carbs.
Pierce
Once again many thanks to all. I put it all back together without any serious welding so this morning I got one of those clamp devices that measures current flow and I saw 6.32amps?? Seems a bit excessive to me, any ideas from the experts??
Everything off inside including the salesman switch.
Speedbird 1.
Everything off, including inverter? If so disconnect the alt. pos. cable and recheck maybe a bad diode.
Do you have switches on:
Propane/C02 Alarms?
Radios (12V memory)?
Propane isolation valve (big draw)? These were direct wired on my 95, and there were a few others.
On the chassis battery side, there was direct 12V to at least the TCU.
6 amps is a lot. Perhaps the boost solenoid is stuck in the on position. All 12V accessories off? You need to isolate the draw but I guess I don't have to tell you that. ::)
Pierce
https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-0/c33.0.200.200/p200x200/12247015_1006956266012396_6310712142818251060_n.jpg?oh=d9a582c0d546a3bb761cd8830272267e&oe=59F8318F
Pull the fuses until the amps drop. Could be as simple as one of the dash fans , radio , etc.
Do you still have your charger or turned inverter on? The inverter draws almost 5 amps in the "ready" stage/ idle.
Jim
2002 U320
Thanks guys, you hit it on the head and perhaps someone should hit me aside the head!!!
This idiot had it plugged in to shore power so it was taking a charge. Who said these things were easy???
Speedbird 1.
I will now own up to the brain discrepancy and admit I had the ground power connected!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not when I got the arcing but when I checked the current flow. The arcing was me being delicate with attaching the main lead. Get it in hand and firmly put it on, no problem!!
This morning with NO Ground Power and the Inverter OFF the current flow was .9 to .10 amps.
End of saga and another lesson learned. Only 5yrs with this coach and still learning, Take note newbies!!
Speedbird 1.
Thank you Don & Tys for the recommendation, Installed this Blue Sea switch on the chassis ground and a lower capacity Blue Sea switch on the house ground, pleased with the quality. Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems HD-Series Heavy Duty On-Off Battery Switch:... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MMDLB6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $71.62 free shipping Amazon and this one on the house (350 amp rating) Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems e-Series On/Off Battery Switch: Blue Sea... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MMC914/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $31.19 free shipping Amazon
You will like that set up Jack. I did the bus bar with kill switch Don designed for the chassis and had already kill switched the house. Easy to shut it all down.
One lesson I did learn in that set up was to take the chassis 100w solar charger to the switch and not the bus bar unswitched. Something about Englishmen and mid day sun.