Overflow tank is not getting warm or level changing due to coolant expansion, got to looking and the nipple for the hose to the overflow tank is loose and loosing pressure, leaking at the fill neck..
What would be a good solder for re attachment?
JB Weld or??
If you mean the metal tank that the radiator cap fits on,I would remove the tank and take it to a shop to repair,would use the jb as
a last resort.
I had the same problem. I just cleaned it up and then with a small plumbing torch, soldered it. I used a piece of backerboard to keep the heat off the insulation above. Now I have all backerboard in the engine compartment so soldering is not a problem.
This may be a problem on a lot of coaches of this vintage.
Pierce
Thanks all, took the tank off and into the radiator shop it went... for a new fill neck..(neck had crack issues as well.
And a whole lotta rust behind the tank...will take care of that while waiting for tank to be done.
Been there done that on the rust last week.
really surprised me how much rust there was....
Put some spacers behind it when you re-install it. It keeps it from touching the panel.
Thanks for the heads up...
won't take much mebbe 2 washers per
I removed the 90 degree elbow, heated it up and removed the copper filler that the rad cap attaches to.. The solder job was terrible, it must have been leaking slalom amounts for years.. Cleaned everything up, used acid core solder, not resin core which is used for wiring, a propane torch, and soldered it up.. After cooling and cleaning , put the cap on, placed my hand. Over the bottom , a plastic hose on over flow, sucked on the hose, it held a vaccum, so replaced it , topped it up and all was well.....
Silver-phos rod can produce a superior joint. I walk across our construction sites about every two weeks and pick it up off the ground, if you have a plumber friend or a guy that does refrigerant piping they throw them away when they get about 4-5" long cause they ain't buying it and they are to lazy to solder butts together when it gets too hot to hold.
I'm sorry I didn't see this earlier. I had a problem with my "neck nipple" breaking off prior to my owning the coach. After recommendations and research, I ordered and installed the "no solder" billet neck kit. It seemed a little pricey, but was much cheaper than having the unit removed and repaired conventionally. The removal of old neck and the installation of this one was pretty easy. I has held up well for about 5,000 miles.
Here's the link: No-Solder-Filler Neck Kit (http://www.parts.rvhydronicheaterrepair.com/No-Solder-Filler-Neck-Kit-Filler-Neck-Kit.htm)
This is referring to the engine water tank.