Foretravel Owners' Forum

Foretravel Motorhome Forums => Foretravel Tech Talk => Topic started by: CAPEHORN31 on August 10, 2017, 02:41:49 pm

Title: HOT Isolator
Post by: CAPEHORN31 on August 10, 2017, 02:41:49 pm
Are these temperatures normal for the isloator while the engine is running?

Left and right terminals 175 degrees
Center terminal. 185 degrees

All charging functions seem to be working ok.  It is a new isloator as the old one had a spun center terminal. 

1997 U295
Title: Re: HOT Isolator
Post by: John44 on August 10, 2017, 02:49:43 pm
Exactly what isolator is it?Do the research and call the manufactuer,or post the brand and model and someone here will.
Title: Re: HOT Isolator
Post by: jcus on August 10, 2017, 03:12:17 pm
It is pretty warm in engine compartment. but I would loosen off and retighten. Temps will be higher if not a good connection.
Title: Re: HOT Isolator
Post by: John Duld on August 10, 2017, 03:15:42 pm
What is the capacity of the isolator? Is it overloaded?
Title: Re: HOT Isolator
Post by: CAPEHORN31 on August 10, 2017, 04:37:42 pm
Cole Hersee 48160 Battery Isolator  200 amp
Title: Re: HOT Isolator
Post by: John Duld on August 10, 2017, 06:35:01 pm
I wonder what Cole Hersee would say about those temperatures?
May be normal. As my isolater aged it looked like it had been hot.
Title: Re: HOT Isolator
Post by: wolfe10 on August 10, 2017, 06:39:40 pm
Yup I would be visiting with Cole Hersee.  Tell them approximate amps their isolator is handling as well as temperature in the engine room where it is located.

FAR better than our guesses.

But 180 degrees, particularly with all the heat-dissipating fins means you are turning a LOT of alternator output into heat.
Title: Re: HOT Isolator
Post by: John44 on August 10, 2017, 08:14:48 pm
Not sure where his is but mine is next to the safe under the floor,so probably a little cooler than the actual engine area,I assume
you were using a heat gun for your temperatures?
Title: Re: HOT Isolator
Post by: CAPEHORN31 on August 10, 2017, 09:13:50 pm
Yes, I used an IR heat gun
Title: Re: HOT Isolator
Post by: Tom Lang on August 10, 2017, 11:26:27 pm
Measure the current through the diode and the voltage across.  There should be a spec, if the drop is higher than spec for that current, there is a heat generating problem either in the diode or connection.

By the way, if the current is 100A and the diode drop is 0.7V, that diode is dissipating 70 Watts. Think of the heat from a 70W incandescent light bulb.  This could easily be normal. There is a reason for the heat sink fins.
Title: Re: HOT Isolator
Post by: TexasPop on August 11, 2017, 12:08:06 am
How far away is the ir gun from the bolt head.  With a beam of 10:1 you can not be more than 2.5" away from a .25" bolt.  I would use a contact thermometer in this instance.  You're probably measuring the heat sink temperature.
Title: Re: HOT Isolator
Post by: CAPEHORN31 on August 11, 2017, 01:01:51 pm
I think that the problem is fixed.  I removed , cleaned, reattached all connections to the isolator and relays.  The temp is now 165 degrees at the alternator terminal on the isloator.  I drove the coach for 30 minutes to get a true reading.
Thanks everyone for the help.
Terry
Title: Re: HOT Isolator
Post by: Barry & Cindy on August 11, 2017, 08:57:58 pm
On our coach if we deplete house battery bank, we run generator to let inverter/charger charge batteries.  We do not consider the engine alternator / isolator the best way to charge depleted house batteries.  It seems that the isolator's big job would be to replenish start bank from engine start, which would be minimal work.