Any member installed the Air Force One System on as 2000 era U320? I had an M&G system previously, but after my Trailblazer had a pushing match with a mule deer, I decided to switch to a different Toad, and M&G does not make one for the Toad I just acquired so I'm switching systems. M&G installed my old system in Athens, but I elected to do this one myself. I have many years experience on everything for US/Foreign autos/truck/construction equipment to radial engine airplanes and jets, but very little on air brake systems. My new components are here, but I'm not sure I totally understand the tap-in to the coach air brake system and where some of those components are located in my coach. Anyone able to offer advice as to where the various component I need to access are located.
Have you called M&G .... They redesigned their unit so it's compatible with more models. I had them install it on my 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee about 3 months ago. They are in process of updating their documentation so it wasn't on their website yet.
I just installed a air force one and there instructions aren't that clear. Go on u tube and there is some good videos. I didn't follow
there instruction on how to cut into the air lines. I went out and bought street tees and did it properly and I threw out there electrical stuff and use heat shrink crimpons and soldered and heat shrinked where you have to join on to another wire. I like that it is so simple
to hook up. Good luck with it
Hello Dan,
I installed the Air Force 1 myself a couple of years ago and love it. My coach is probably similar to yours. Because of the vague instructions, I ended up calling the company directly and they were very helpful. I will climb under my coach later and take some photos for you. You can send me a private message if you would like to chat.
Richard
Through looking closely at my air schematics I was able to find the supply air and control air lines. Pretty easy to cut the lines and press on the connectors from SMI. Here are a few pictures and the cutter I used.
Mark
Air Hose Cutter Tool Quick Cut Air Ride Suspension Clean Crisp Cutting (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Hose-Cutter-Tool-Quick-Cut-Air-Ride-Suspension-Clean-Crisp-Cutting-/201638339836?hash=item2ef294e4fc:g:Z7UAAOSwhOdXokDI&vxp=mtr)
Jimmy, I am surprised to hear that our favorite M&G can fit on our 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The master cylinder is nested in an under hood deep corner 'compartment'. How did they redesign the cylinder shape? Any photos of your installation...
Barry, sorry I can't take pictures right now but the new model is similar to the air force one in that they do not trap into the master cylinder, they link directly to the brake pedal.
Jimmy, Thanks... I was not aware that M&G has an different type of tow brake. We commend M&G for capitalizing on their good name with a completely different design. I just found it on their web site and have downloaded the instruction manual. I see it uses the same motorhome air tap and tow car break away. Instead of the master cylinder air piston, they have an air cylinder that pulls the brake pedal with motorhome electric powered vacuum pump assistance. Clever mod.
I just called and talked to Monty and learned Leon & Joan Meadows still active in the business. Thanks, Barry
I appreciate all the responses and we should have the installation wrapped up today. I wish M & G had told me they had a new system when I called them last month instead of just telling me they didn't make a system for my Toad. By the time this thread was answered, I had already bought the Air Force One System. For possible future use by anyone - the Blue Ox base plate has two round rods extending out from the main beam. They are there to support either the Toad electrical plug or the air fitting. I threaded both of mine with a 10mm x 1.25 die and cut a 1/4" metal plate and drilled holes in it to match those rods. Although the AF1 bracket for the break away plug is a straight piece of metal when you get it, by putting it in a vise, I bent it 90 degrees so the mounting hole would be in a vertical plane to the ground. The new base plate came with two new cable that are supposed to be looped around the base plate and some point on the chassis. I put those in place with the loops (for the base plate itself) for each in between the two rods, slipped the one plate I made over the two rods, drilled out the bracket hole to 10 MM, and slipped it over drivers side rod, and secured the entire assembly against the base plate with flat washers, lock washers and nuts on each side. That also secured the safety cables. I then made another plate, again with holes to match the rods, plus a hole in the center that would accept the air fitting AFDD1 supplied for the quick disconnect. I rand 10mm nuts on both rods about an inch, installed a flat washer, then the plate, another flat washer, lock washer and nut. I adjusted the nuts on front and back so what the outside nut is even with the end of the rod. Works very well. I already had a 6 way connector on my motor home, and didn't move it. I can provide dimensions and drawings for the plates if anyone is interested