Today I was off work and went ahead and replaced my rear radiator fan on my 91 U300 Grand Villa Detroit 6V92Ta Engine.
The original fan on some models used fiberglass blades and they have come apart and exploded on some people.Resulting in catastrophic radiator damage.
I want to gratefully thank Peter Fleming for the fan he gave me !! If we ever meet I'm buying!!!
I started by going at it from the top. I layed a piece of cardboard over the engine. I crawled into and on top of the engine.
The fan bolts loosened right up and I removed them.
Crawling under I did not have room to slip fan around fan shroud. I took a tape and drew a line on both sides and using a cutoff wheel cut the shroud at an angle and removed it from the bottom. This gave me plenty of room to drop the fan down from underneath. Note: I did have to remove my coolant boost pump from the frame and set is aside to gain clearance on drivers side. Nothing was disconnected.
I then dug up some ductwork slips. These are used on sheetmetal ductwork to connect sections. They are shaped like a S.
I slipped the slip onto the cutoff piece of shroud and kind of splitting the difference on each side drilled 2 holes and screwed them to that piece.
I had some leftover angle and cut off two pieces to connect the bottom back on. I drilled holes and then attached them with S/S sheet metal screws.
All in all not too bad of a job.
Next task is remove all old engine room insulation. It is all coming apart and that will be removed tomorrow! Dirty clothes are laying on back porch for that task! ^.^d
Great work Stump!
You made a difficult job look easy and that was a great DIY fix with the shroud. Crawling on top and underneath that engine to work on it can be a real challenge as I found out working on the big air compressor.
Jerry
Nice work! Check my engine room backer board fire proofing installation. OEM is a disaster waiting to happen. I also show what it look like when on fire.
Pierce
Great job on the shroud! Now for a little degreaser and water to clean the radiator fins as in the 2 pictures, I see alot of dirt. I clean mine 3 to 4 times a year, as these pusher suck up alot of grime!
That's on my list for today. Removing all old insulation then washing engine ,radiator,etc. My air compressor in my shop rusted a hole in the bottom yesterday. I found a 5 Horse 80 gal used one on CL and picked it up this morning. The guy also gave me a miller MPS10FT spot welder and a Dewalt Miter Saw $400.00 for it all! Wheelin and Dealin They are going back on CL after I clean them up a bit!
Sounds like it's "Miller Time".
I was amazed that there was no access to the fan short of cutting the shroud. Is that, in fact the only way to remove the fan?
A second question is: Is there any way to inspect the fan to determine whether or not the fan needs to be replaced?
TIA for all replies.
Randall Brink
If it's fiberglass and needs to be replaced, the difference between fiberglass and the plastic ones should be easy to detect.
If the blades on your fan are fiberglass you will want to replace it. The new fan has nylon/plastic blades on it. I have my old fan out back I will take some close ups of it so maybe it will help determine if yours is fiberglass.
I'm sure there are other ways of changing it out. I think my way was the easiest for me. Unbolting the entire shroud and having a chance of it poking a hole in the radiator led me to do it my way. It may look like there is room to get it out,without messing with the shroud but there isn't I tried that first. I used a air whiz wheel exhaust cutter and a small whiz wheel I have for my dremel. The slips I used to reattach the shroud can be had at anyone that does sheet metal HVAC Duct. I have plenty here I can send you if you need some. If you decide to go my route. I'll post the pics of the fan in the morning.
You may be able to feel the leading edge of the blade with the backside of your fingers. The tiny needles of fiberglass will pierce your skin most likely, rubbing alcohol or laquer thinner applied to the skin immediately after will confirm this. Old school trick.
Here are the pictures of my old fiberglass fan You can see the fiberglass fibers in the blades and on the hub itself. The new fan will not have those fibers. It will have nylon blades as well as a metal hub.
Kudos Stump!
This is a really great thread, done in the finest tradition of this helpful Forum. A potentially serious problem is identified, a solution is found to the problem, and a illustrated demonstration of the solution is presented, accompanied by clear photos. Learning about, and applying, this solution could save present and future Forum members a great deal of trouble, expense, and aggravation.
WELL DONE! ^.^d
Thanks for posting these pictures. I should now be able to determine the status of my fan. I will definitely want to repllace if fiberglas. Did you mention a source for a new fan?
Not a source, but here is the part number: FLEX A LITE (Stock #FLO-8681)
Not having any luck finding it with a Google search. See thread below for some more info:
part number for nylon replacement fan for my 8.2 turbo V8 (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=22268.msg168986#msg168986)
Thanks!
My replacement fan has a decal on it with the part number 8681 and a phone number. Call it and tell them you need one. 800 851 1510