After reading previous threads I called around locally to find 8 - 2" square metal tubing x 1/4" thick walls x 12" long. Looks like I can get them cut and ready to pickup for $86.52 here in Sarasota or $67.43 up in Tampa. Probably not worth the fuel to save the $20.
Is this still the right material for the job?
How would you recommend "protecting" the tubing to prevent rust/corrosion?
Thanks in advance.
Randy
1. That should work fine.
2. Powder coating?
Two 6 ft long 6X6" pieces treated posts at Home Depot, cut to size, does not need painting. $18
Remember we're only 34' not 40' :-\ . Don't want to displace the beer cooler and smoker!
Steel is the preferred material. A can of spray paint will do just fine.
I used aircraft aluminum tubing, 2 inch diameter, 1/4 inch wall - paint not needed, light and easy to handle. Mine are 6 inches long and I put them over the metal donut on the frame, which is inboard from the airbags. Gives same lift as 12 inch beside airbags. I use long handle kitchen thongs to place them.
A 6X6 treated wooden post will support over 7000 lbs, using 8, your coach would have to weigh 56000 lbs to deflect the post.
Of course, this is assuming all 8 airbags catastrophically deflated at the same time.
Randy,
You need four to work on one end or the other or eight to hold up the whole coach. I got 2- 48"x 2" receiver tubes from Northern Tool and cut then into ~12" lengths. It was less than $60 as I recall. I bring 4 when we travel. They were powder coated but I never painted the cut ends. No need.
Had mine cut from same 2" Sq 1/4" steel tube then painted them bright yellow. Me or shop can't forget they are there then!
Keith
I like that method better, I believe. I know you are in Canada, but just where can one source that aluminum? Anybody here in the Lower 48 that knows of a place, please respond also, thanks!
Each should be 12 inc long not 11, 10. I suppose i would measure the travel height and do about 1 inch less?
"I suppose i would measure the travel height and do about 1 inch less?" Raising the coach all the way up, then measuring and making the supports somewhat less would give you the most work room and still allow enough clearance to get them back out again.
I have the screw-up ones that fit over the cross members. When I first got them I thought I'd be smart and put a couple in after leveling the coach. The front was pretty much all the way up, and I put one in and cranked it up tight. Of course, the coach settled a bit, but I didn't notice anything because the supports held. When came time to leave, though, I couldn't get one out. I ended up sticking a 12 ton jack in next to the support, jacking it up enough to loosen the support, then carefully lowering the coach until it was again resting on the support. Then I removed the jack, used the HWH system to raise the coach, then pulled out the support. Lots of work.
Now, when I put the support in I leave them loose about 1/2" so that they provide the necessary safety, but can still be easily removed.
I had a set of eight made and painted bright orange. That way I'll be able to see them, should I get called for food after I've finished the original project but before I get everything put away. (Food always takes priority.)
I cut an old 5th wheel jack up. They slide inside each other so they are really compact. 6 1/2" is as long as I can get in the chassis, where we put them as a tech, ours were aluminum. Or are you putting them by the air bags? I have 2 4x4's with sides boards on them to hold them in place in case of air bag failure.
I painted mine white with a bright red candy cane stripe down the length of them.
2"x6 steel pipe nipples from plumbing supply house might work also, or cut pipe
2"x2"x1/4" square tube cut to 11" gives you a bit of space above for placing. I liked the robust strength of that grade of steel, considering the weight they hold.
My friend made mine out 2x2" white oak.