This appears to be the dash solenoid. Could someone confirm this...putting in the Blue Sea today.
George,
Ours is in a different place (under the dash cover), but that sure looks like the ignition solenoid to me.
Easy to check (multimeter or test light): with ignition key off, only one big post should be hot. Turn ignition key on, you should hear a "click" or a "thunk", and the other big big post should now also be hot - at the same time your dash gauges should come alive.
Thanks Chuck for the quick return. Test confirmed.
Make sure it's a constant duty one, not momentary like a ford starter solenoid. They look a like. I would imagine the Blue Sea is, but that one is kind of over kill.
I use these all the time. Work fine
New Continuous Duty Solenoid 85amp 12 Volt, 4-Terminal Copper Contacts | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Continuous-Duty-Solenoid-85amp-12-Volt-4-Terminal-Copper-Contacts/182424374538?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649)
Here is Cole-Hersee's 200 amp continuous duty solenoid. Works under dash, for the boost, etc. A lot cheaper than the BlueSeas but not quite as reliable. Silver tungsten contacts. This would be considered OEM.
Cole Hersee #24213 12 Volt 4 Terminal 200 Amp Continuous Duty Solenoid -Blk... (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cole-Hersee-24213-12-Volt-4-Terminal-200-Amp-Continuous-Duty-Solenoid-Blk-tray-/332238167128?epid=1624033379&hash=item4d5af01c58:g:e7IAAOSwX9FZKLu3&vxp=mtr)
Pierce
I too am a fan of the "rated for 1 million cycles" and very high amp rating Blue Sea choice. Just look at the number of failures we have had posted here and the consequences (no start, no run) of a failure.
Yup Brett, mine only failed when I went to the start position with the key. Really fooled me to diagnose.
I just carry a spare's . For that kind of money I can carry a couple.They are used 2 other places in the rear.I think many have been replaced with Ford momentary solenoids. Mine was.
Chris
Found a new one on Ebay $129 free shipping no tax. It is on its way. Blue Sea 9012
I had purchased a Blue Sea to install today but there seemed to be a lot of variation in location. As a neophyte, I wanted to make sure I was on the correct solenoid. It was my understanding there was only one in the front. Learning to jump it like the starter was pretty cool.
Different years and models is always confusing when reading posts for me. Back when I did my fuel lines, posts were telling me to remove it from the drivers side, but mine had to come out on the passenger side.
I have the wiring diagram for my coach and the wires are numbered,can you check using a diagram?If not I can look at mine
and let you know the wire numbers.Or call Foretravel they will send you the diagram.
No, jumping the ignition solenoid is VERY different than jumping the starter solenoid. The ignition solenoid MUST BE ON 100% of the time the ignition is on or your coach will not move, as it powers the transmission and engine systems.
To identify the ignition solenoid: Locate what you think is the ignition solenoid. Use test light or voltmeter to verify that the small terminal (if only one) shows 12 VDC positive when the key is on. If two small terminals, one will be ground, the other the one mentioned above.
When the ignition solenoid is working, the 12+ VDC positive on one large lug (direct connection to chassis battery) is also present on the other large lug, which then goes to the fuse block/breakers for all circuits powered when the ignition is on.
Thanks Brett I understand.
George, your picture does show the ignition solenoid and your choice of Blue Sea is fine. Before you start, you may want to disconnect start battery ground, keep boost & ignition switch off and disconnect any battery combiners like Trik L Start. Good move. Clean connectors before re-assembly. Blue Sea may mount differently.
I would venture to say that always remove the
Negative cable on batteries while working on 12 volt systems. Been there done that with bad results. Heck I have got my negative terminals "clocked" so I can't swing a longer wrench and accidentally contact the positive post and launch the vent caps and battery acid 15 feet into the air.
Barry et al, I followed Dons lead and installed a marine kill switch at the batteries. I like this for quick isolation. It also kills the solar charging. For future reference, safety, should I still pull the cable when working on the 12v chassis side?
I've been known to remove all four house battery cables AND both positive and negative cables on the start batteries. Also make sure that the coach is unplugged. That way there is no possibility of letting out the magic smoke from stuff or watching spitzensparksen.
Understand your approach Dave. The two systems are currently isolated from each other. I replaced the isolator with a marine switch. Have a main switch on both banks but want to make sure I did not miss something. The boost switch is always off. I can combine them with a marine three way if I had to do so. Each has their own solar...learned the hard way to remember to turn off the chassis solar and it now it too is on the kill switch.
In changing the ignition solenoid, the only thing one has to be careful of (in terms of potential dead short) is the large-gauge wire from chassis battery. Easily identified as the one (of only two) that has 12 VDC positive with ignition OFF.
I would not go to the trouble of disconnecting batteries, but would carefully remove that wire first and slip something over it so that it is electrically isolated. A scrap of hose that snugly fits over the terminal works fine. Yes use a wrench wrapped with tape so it won't cause dead short either.
Certainly nothing wrong with disconnecting the batteries, but really no issues with not doing it as above. Since ignition is OFF, no power/surges get to anything "downstream" of the solenoid.
With the ignition or boost solenoid with four terminals, the small terminals are interchangeable. Bring the ground to either one.
Pierce
Going from a 4 post to a blue sea 2 post. The original solenoid has two smaller post- where do those wires go on the blue sea solenoid? Blue sea has two large post and one red wire and one black wire.
Red to hot black to ground. It really doesn't matter if they are reversed. But use your volt meter to find out which small wire is ground and which gets hot when the key is turned on.
Moving the wires to the mounting plate doesn't make sense. The wires need to be powered as they are now on the small post.
The ground wire can go to any ground including the mounting plate or the old existing ground wire. The wire from the ignition goes to the red wire.
So the three wires on the two small post (look at the picture I posted) all go on the red wire from the blue sea solenoid?
You have 3 small wires going to the old solenoid. One of those small wires comes from the ignition switch, and is hot only when the ignition switch is "ON". You must identify which of the 3 small wires comes from the ignition switch. That small wire connects to red small wire on new solenoid. If the small wire from the ignition switch is one of the two wires connected together on the same stud on the old solenoid, then both of those wires will be connected to the red small wire on the new solenoid. The other remaining small wire on the old solenoid is the ground wire. It will connect to the black small wire on the new solenoid.
You can identify the "hot with ignition switch on" small wire and the "ground" small wire using a multimeter or a 12V test light.
No only the 2 will go to the red wire one will go to the black wire.