I posted earlier on my generator radiator. It was not leaking but it was a mess. It was shedding fins and the lower two tubes were just lying there unattached. Both the top and bottom brackets had broken away from the side tanks. I got it recored in Phoenix for $265 plus tax.
After seeing the projects done by Maz, George, Robert and Barry I decided to separate the radiator from the engine. I used a couple of pieces of 1/4" angle iron and new isolators from Power Tech. It's now separated on the bottom but I stayed with the factory top isolator connections. There is now very little vibration transferred to the radiator.
Blasted and painted the parts. Replaced all the coolant, fuel and PCV hoses as well as the drive belt (thanks for the part numbers, Barry) and put up new insulation on the fan side of the genny box while I was at it. It's nice to see that baby running without the radiator shaking itself apart.
jor
Good price on the recore cheapest price I could find was $500.
Sweet........ Be careful of attaching the top mounts to the engine I sprung a small leak on mine where the mounts attach on the bottom. I think it was from the engine rocking during start and stop putting pressure on the bottom of the radiator. My advice would be to totally separate it so you don't stress the lower radiator mounts.
Mark
Mark,
How did you insure that the fan does not contact the fan shroud or other "separately mounted components" on start/stopping?
Brett,
I just made sure it was centered in the shroud and it doesn't rub. Not sure that would be the case for everyone. Works fine on mine.
Mark
Nice work Jor!
The shroud can be an issue. My separation modified Marks approach unsuccessfully. I had given Wayne at OTM the project Mark had done for what I wanted done. I also wanted to redo insulation and repair rails while it was out. They let me do so on the lot which was much appreciated.
I noted to Wayne that it wasn't what he had been given and he thought it was better than the original. It looked good to me. 6 hours later I10 conditions brought fan into contact with the shroud and it threw the belt and of course overheated. We had far to much rubber between fan and shroud creating to much flex underway. While stationary we have no issues. Joey promised to make good on the issue.
Still gathering info and parts to redo mine,I wonder if you take the round shroud and cut/grind maybe 1/4 inch around in other words
make the round hole that surrounds the fan bigger to avoid the rubbing at startup?
Once I get some of the rubber off I think that sounds reasonable. But on mine there is no issue at start up.
Closing out this thread. I finally finished this project. Originally, I separated the radiator from the generator at the bottom mount and reattached the top two isolators. Then I decided it would be better to emulate Mark's method so I unattached the top isolators and installed a diagonal bracket front and back. Worked fine. Then I read George's post regarding his experience on the road with his separated radiator. I have no idea how much the engine moves around over a rough road but I simulated it by shaking it violently and sure enough, the fan would tick the shroud. Finally, I went back to my original method with the separation on the bottom and the isolators on top. Both the bottom mount and top isolators are new. I tried the same violent shaking with no contact this time. I think the new isolators provide enough give so as not to stress the bottom mounts too much. Anyhow, that is my hope.
I think John44's idea of grinding the shroud is good. Also, when you have the radiator out you can elongate the bottom mount holes which provides you with some adjustment to get the fan centered.
jor
Jor thanks for validating what I thought had gone wrong.
George