As you probably know the crummy Ford headlights on the U280 / U300 and other similar models are made of cheap plastic that tends to cloud up and discolor to a yellow brown tint making night driving difficult. Several people on this forum have polished their headlights only to have them discolor again. Another mechanic that I worked with at Zion national park told me to coat the headlights with a UV resistant clear spray paint immediately after polishing the headlights and they'll stay clear for a long time. I did this the other day and finally got to drive after dark and test the polished / painted headlights. There's a noticeable difference in visibility after polishing and painting the headlights. The problem of the headlights being way too high above the road is still there of course, which I presume is why Foretravel installed auxiliary lights down close to the road. I drove in the dark without the aux lights on this time just to test the polished / painted headlights and I could see just fine. I wouldn't have done this with the cloudy discolored headlights because it would have been dangerous. I can now drive safely after dark with just the polished / painted headlights on. Because the headlights on the U300 / U280 are so high above the road the low beams are more effective at night than the high beams. The light from the high beams hits the ground so far out in front of the coach that the bulbs aren't bright enough to illuminate much at that range. I'm sure the high beams are very effective when headlights are needed for visibility in bad weather during the daytime. When I dim my headlights the road in front of my coach lights up much better than when they're on high beam. This has nothing to do with the polishing and painting but I thought it worth mentioning. The aux lights mostly illuminate the sides of the road and the area immediately in front of the coach, which is good for illuminating animals about to jump out in the road. I used a headlight polishing kit from Rustoleum and a UV resistant clear spray paint from Rustoleum also. I followed the directions in the kit and it worked great. I probably spent an hour or so on the polishing / painting and made a pretty good improvement in night driving safety. If the headlights discolor again I'll write back and let you know how long the clear UV resistant spray paint lasted.
Then they made the Uni-coaches too low
If you know what ford they came off of buy new ones they are reasonably cheap at rock auto.com
You
can adjust those lights, you know. Bring the high beams down a bit, and they are much more useful. Our driveway is about 100' long. I aim the high beams on the coach so they hit the ground out at the end of the driveway. Seems to make a lot better use of the meager light output from the Ford headlights. Also, makes the high-mounted lights less irritating to oncoming drivers.
I also use Hella 100/80W halogen bulbs in our headlights. They do make some improvement over the standard 65/45W HB1 bulbs.
Amazon.com: HELLA 9004 100/80W HB1 12V Bulb (Off Road Use Only): Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-9004-100-80W-Bulb/dp/B00IKM3DGI)
I did similar to RRadio except I used 600, 1200, & 3000 grit wet sanding paper, after grinding off the aiming protrusions. I used the Rustoleum Clear spray UV resistant paint.
(My labor is cheap since retirement. It keeps me out of the house and the DW's way.)
I was wandering through the local FredMeyer yesterday and came across the "seen on tv" isle. I picked up the Rustoleum Wipe New package and gave it a try. It comes with a wet sand pad with 2 different grits, a cloth, gloves, and the wipe with the clear material on it. I tried it out on Falcor and then went to the toad and did those lights as well. The result was pretty amazing on the toad, not so much on the FT.
I used a 3M kit on mine. The lights look much better, but since I've only driven after dark once or twice since we bought the coach, I can't say whether or not it makes any difference. I do drive with the headlights on all the time, though, so I'm sure that it has made some difference for those coming toward me.
Polishing the outside of the plastic lens will improve them to some degree. However, part of the problem with old lights is they get dirt, dust and moisture inside the reflector housing. This is especially true if the back side of the housings are cracked. Both of my original headlight units were cracked, and they constantly had moisture condensed on the inside of the lens. Driving all day with the lights on would kinda dry them out, but a few days later the moisture was back. That was what prompted me to replace them with new reproduction units. Now they stay clean, dry and clear inside under all conditions.
I'm not trying to belittle anyone's efforts to refurbish the old units. Just saying there will come a time when more drastic measures are necessary.
Chuck is so right! I had condensation/water in the headlights so when I took them off the coach I rinsed the inside with distilled water and then proceeded to blow the insides dry. I then caulked all the way around both headlights.
I found the opening in the fiberglass front end was a "bit" restrictive for removing/installing the headlight assemblies so I took my 4-1/2" grinder and cut the lower inside lip at an angle to facilitate replacing the assemblies. Worked!
Chuck,
Assuming the passenger side was your before, and driver side was you after, I think there was a big difference.
Trent
Did you use your grinder on the protrusions?
How long do you think you spent with each of the three sandpaper grades?
Thanks,
Trent
Both were after. I worked on both pretty much, and they are a LOT clearer, but as Chuck points out above, there will come a time for more drastic (replacement) measures.
I used my 4-1/2" grinder--very carefully!
Time spent? Didn't keep track, but only worked on the headlights sporadically. Lots of other things I had to do. Physical water therapy, Drs. visits, yard work, etc.
I removed the plastic chrome trim and cleaned the pieces up. Waxed everything before installing on the coach.
Installed the newer, brighter headlight bulbs mentioned earlier. WOW, what a difference! DW couldn't believe how much better they looked and how much brighter they were.
One thing I did was to use my Ryobi Detail Sander (the one that uses the small triangle pads) and glued the various grades of wet sanding paper onto the pad mount--with---(here it comes!!)---Shoe Goo!! What else?
Just had to sit there and move the sander around while keeping it wet with squirts from an old Windex bottle.
You saw the results in my previous post, so attached are the "before" pictures.
I don't have any condensation in the Ford headlights, so in my case I just needed to clear them up and hopefully keep them that way. I do have condensation in both of the Hella auxiliary lights, but it clears up after I turn the lights on for a while. The aux lights haven't discolored, cuz I think they're glass instead of plastic, and they're fog lights anyway, so there's not much of a focus to them. They just put light out to the sides of the road and the area immediately in front of the coach. Now that the Ford headlights are working as designed the aux lights aren't that vital anymore. I'll still use them in situations where I need to see animals beside the road at night. I seldom drive in fog thankfully.
I haven't adjusted the aim of any of the lights on my coach because they seem to be right on target. I didn't grind off the aiming tabs because I expect to find one of those headlight aiming machines at one of the national parks I will work at ...eventually. So far none of the parks had one. It's possible I'll be a vehicle mechanic at Great Smoky Mountains next. :) ...I'm currently at Great Sand Dunes national park in Colorado but I'm building maintenance this time instead of vehicle maintenance.
When my current headlight bulbs burn out I may replace them with higher powered bulbs, but I don't really need them, especially now that I cleared up the headlight lenses.
I was under the impression that the "brick nose" Ford headlights on the U280 U300 were expensive, like a hundred bucks per headlight... I don't need new headlights at the moment but out of curiosity how much are they?
Nitehawk, how long has the clear spray paint kept your headlights from discoloring again? I was told UV resistant clear spray paint could keep the headlights from discoloring again for several years, as long as the paint stays intact. I suppose rocks will chip the paint off eventually.
Ive had the same problem on all vehicles that I have owned. Next time you want to clear up your headlight lenses try an old sock and mosquito repellent. It works! I have no idea how or why but it does the trick.
$152.60 for a pair on eBay.
Grand Villa Headlight Replacement (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=29676.0)
That is an excellent price. Makes me want to run out and buy another GV! I recall paying quite a bit more when I replaced them on my 95. If you really want a shock, price them at Foretravel.
jor
RRadio, the clear paint has kept my headlights from yellowing for just over a month now.
...that's a pretty long time for anything from Ford to keep working ;)
I did the same but finished with polishing compound on a body shop buffer. Nice but I should have done the clear coat on them as after a few months, they cloud again.
I usually put in 100W H-4 bulbs and the Hella variety are much longer lasting compared to the Asian replacements. This time, I installed a HID 5000K kit and have been pleased with them. I do get blinked down occasionally. I have adjusted them down a bit. About $45 delivered off ebay. I changed the wiring and they have a relay now. I do like the 3500K as the best color. 5000K and higher make it harder to define objects, at least for me.
Motorcycle shops have the H-4 bulbs if you need them locally. The 130 watt variety will require larger supply wires.
Pierce
One note I forgot to add on the Clear coat -
Rustoleum Clear coat is non yellowing and a UV shield - but is acetone based
Acetone can melt plastic, so when you apply this product to your headlights, plan on a VERY light coat for the first 3-4 coats until a layer is built up on the headlight. If you "over apply" the clear coat you will get "orange peel" in the clear coat- which does not really affect anything - appearance or clarity of the lens - but it does bother the perfectionist in me
Tim Fiedler
Sure Start Soft Start (http://www.gen-pro.biz)
TCER Direct (http://www.tcerdirect.com) generator-gas-prod (http://www.generatorgasproducts.com) 630 240-9139
Gen-Pro
...true, I got a little bit of "orange peel" on one of my headlights, but it didn't seem to affect performance and you have to look closely to even notice it