I originally posted this in the "What did you do to your coach today..." thread, but decided to break it out to a separate subject, in case members might want to post tips on doing the swap. I have learned a few things that I will add in the 2nd post. Feel free to add your own tips if you like.
Go here to see photos in original post: What did you do to your coach today VI (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=30072.msg288815#msg288815)
Clearance lights. Is that what they are called? The lights around the top edge of the coach? Anyway, I'm replacing my original peanut bulb lights with LEDs. Ordered a set of 14 from Amazon - 7 red and 7 amber. Appear to be pretty good quality, and very bright. Size and shape are similar to the old units - they completely cover the shadow from the OEM lights. The mounting screw holes are in exactly the same 3" spacing. The only real problem with them is that the wires come out the back of the light in the corner. I needed them to come out in the center to use the existing hole. So I rerouted the wires inside the light and brought them out through 2 new center holes. Problem solved.
I'm gonna be MUCH happier with these lights. I was always having to fiddle and fuss with the little bulbs in the old ones, trying to keep them lit. Hopefully the LEDs will be trouble-free, and live a long time.
Amazon.com: Partsam 14x Trailer Marker LED Light Double Bullseye 10 Diodes... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5WFEE5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Here's a few tips I learned working on my lights. Depending on the model year of your coach, some of these things may or may not apply.
The new lights don't come with gaskets, in case you were wondering. When you remove the old (original?) lights, you will see they also did not have gaskets. Foretravel just used their famous white silicon rubber sealing goop on the back of the lights. After removing the old light, I used a razor blade to clean the old rubber stuff off until I had a nice flat mounting surface. Then I cleaned off any dirt that remained with a paper towel and Windex. I then ran a bead of white sealant around the edge of the flat back side of the new light, making sure I covered the screw holes all the way around. I also put a blob of sealant in the back side corner of the light where the power wires originally exited. Then I stuck the light in place and secured with the original screws. I figure they should be nice and tight when done this way, and hopefully no water leaks.
I started working at the back of the coach - recommend you do the same. They are the easiest lights to reach (standing on a ladder). Get your procedure down on those lights, then work your way towards the front. After you remove the plug of white sealant in the middle hole, you will see that the back lights have some extra slack wire in the open space behind the coach wall. This makes it very easy to use your crimp connectors. Be careful you don't let the wires fall back through the hole when you remove the old light unit. On our coach you only have access (from inside the coach) to the wiring on the middle rear light. It is in the same recess as the rear view camera. The rest of the lights are mounted where you can't get to the wiring from inside the coach. Don't ask how I know this...
On the coach wiring on all of my original lights, the smaller BLACK wire is the hot (+) wire and the larger wires are the ground. Most of the lights had 2 ground wires connected to them. I used a (larger) blue crimp connector on the ground wires, and a (smaller) red connector on the hot wire. On the new LED lights, the RED wire is hot (+) and the black wire is ground. Test your lights and connections several times as you proceed with the installation. If you have a problem, you want to catch it before you get the light all glued down with sealant.
The 2 amber lights on the side of the coach were more difficult, because there is very little space in the wall behind the light. After I removed the original light, I had to (carefully) dig around inside the small center hole with a screwdriver to remove the old sealant and make room for the new crimp connectors. The wires inside the wall had zero slack in them - it feels like they are tightly secured to something. After connecting the new light unit, I had a difficult time pushing the crimp connectors back inside the hole, but after careful manipulation they finally fit. Take your time, be careful not to damage the wires, and you can make it work.
I have not done the front lights yet - outside operations canceled due to rain. On our GV (for obvious reasons) they will be the hardest to reach and work on, but I don't anticipate any other problems. Should be a big open space behind the lights, and plenty of slack wire. I will add another post after I get them done.
I have been planning the same upgrade, and searching for units that will be as close to exact replacements as possible.
All interior lights have been upgraded to LED, as have all exterior with the exception of the marker/clearance lights.
Thank you, Chuck, for your detailed guide to installation. It sure will same time and money over my having to "experiment" with the process.
Once again, the forum comes through. 8)
Chuck, I continue to follow your work! Had clearance lights on the todo list and was waiting to take one off and get a good replacement identified. You did the work for me, and will be ordering a set this week. THANKS!!
The "other" Chuck
After I saw how well these were working, and how nice they look at night, I decided to order a second set of 14 lights to put away as "spares". The way things go, I will eventually break a plastic lens cover, or one of the LED circuit boards will give up the smoke. This way I will have identical parts on hand for quick replacement. As cheap as these things are, it's no big deal to buy a extra set.
If you don't have one, make or buy a standoff for your extension ladder so you can change the front clearance lights on your sloped GV safely. I made my own and then clamped it to the ladder with "J' bolts. I leaned the ladder up to the coach and backed my pickup up against the ladder to keep it from slipping out.
Excellent safety suggestion! IIRC, it was the
esteemed Senior Forum Member Gary Bouland who first demonstrated that technique.
GV Clearance lights (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=25871).
I replace ours with LEDs a couple of years ago. Many are difficult because of the short wires. I soldered them and used shrink tubing. Doing the rear lights first gets the process down. I used an articulated ladder with foam on the ends to do the front lights. They are more difficult. I did use a white epoxy to fill the old screw holes. The lights are a bit smaller and look great. None have failed which is a lot better than the OEM. 10X Oval Amber 2.5" 2 Diode Trailer Truck Lamp Clearance Side Marker Light |... (http://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-Oval-Amber-2-5-2-Diode-Trailer-Truck-Lamp-Clearance-Side-Marker-Light/361293825510?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D47507%26meid%3D461752c8943f49a1a33c86b71174d320%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D222415426307&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851)
About $35 for 20 red and amber lights.
Pierce
I plan to use some long wire with alligator clips on, to hook to the wire as I remove the old light to prevent any accidental loss of the wire into the wall.
These are exact LED replacement marker lights for our original top rear & front bulb marker lights. They have the center round backside 'bulge' that fits into our original cap holes without any modification. They come with a rubber gasket and use the same screw mounting holes. They have 3 LED diodes in the center with reflectant sides.
Truck-Lite 18050R
We did find some better looking forward side turn / marker LED lights that are an improvement over our original LED turn lights.
Partsam clear side marker / turn signal light with 20 amber color LED high low brightness. 6"x2"x1.4", 3-wires (white-wire = negative, black-wire = low 20mA brightness, red-wire = high 110mA brightness)
Surface mount without gasket. We made our own "gasket" with clear silicone on back edges.
Thanx Barry, good product reference.
They are next on my project list. I'll have to measure the lights on our GV to see if they are the same size as on your (newer) coach.
Query: Have you found a LED replacement for the little turn signal repeaters mounted on the mirror arms?
Chuck & Jeannie,
We did find under mirror arm LED turn signal lights: Truck-Lite type 35, our part numbers are 35075Y. Although other similar LED lights are also on Truck-Lite web site, some with more LED diodes and some with less.
Lights are 4" long x 3/4" wide x 1-1/4" high.
Outside Over Door LED
We also found a long LED strip for outside over the door. It did not seem waterproof, so we smeared silicon on back of lamp, and it has worked for over 5 years. Looks nice and is bright and shines light downward.
United Pacific 38871, 39 white LEDs, 16" long
Rear License Plate LED
Our LED rear license plate lights each have 3 diodes and fit in original bulb holes:
United Pacific 39772
Docking LED Lights
Our coach came with rectangular surface mount docking lights. We changed them out with expensive LED that are very bright and fit exactly in the space and mounting of the original.
Grote 63610, Trilliant Mini flush Mount 10R-03.
original were 4 amp 50 watts, new LED are 1.5 amps 18 watts
I found another possible replacement for the under-mirror-arm lights. I like the shape a bit better than the one mentioned by Barry (above), plus the wiring looks a little simpler, and they are less expensive. I will order a pair, and give them a try. Will post results in this thread later.
Rectangle LED Truck and Trailer Lights - 3-3/4" LED Side Clearance Lights w/... (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rectangular-marker-lamps/rectangle-led-truck-and-trailer-lights-3-34-led-side-clearance-lights-w-12-high-flux-leds-pigtail-connector/571/#tab/Specifications)
I found using a pair of hemostats to hold wires from receding back into the wall to work really well. They can put some real clamp pressure on, and make a great heat sink when soldering the new part in.
Len
Scratch my alligator clip idea.
Continuing this project I have replaced my turn signal repeaters (under the mirror arms) with LED. Barry offered one possible replacement unit in Reply #12 above. I picked a different unit simply because I liked the design a little better. I don't know which one would put out better light. The ones I used are very bright looking at the light "longitudinally" (down the long axis). They are slightly less bright when viewed from the side. They use the exact same 3" mounting hole spacing as the original lights, and they are a "1-wire" connection with the ground being made by one of the mounting screws. I think they will work fine for the purpose, but Barry's do also I am sure. Pays yer money- takes yer choice. 8)
Rectangle LED Truck and Trailer Lights - 3-3/4" LED Side Clearance Lights w/... (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rectangular-marker-lamps/rectangle-led-truck-and-trailer-lights-3-34-led-side-clearance-lights-w-12-high-flux-leds-pigtail-connector/571/1781/)
Last installment in this thread.
Final two lights to convert are the side marker/turn signal repeaters, mounted above the front wheel wells. In Reply #10 above, Barry suggested one possible LED replacement. I actually ordered two of those lights (in the amber lens rather than the white lens).
Amazon.com: Partsam 2pcs Amber LED Rectangle Tail Stop Marker Light Trailer... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012I6E59K/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
When they arrived, I powered them up on my bench. They are very bright when viewed "straight on", but when viewed from a 45 degree angle, I was not happy with the brightness. Because the LEDs are mounted on a flat circuit board, the majority of their output is straight out to the side. I feel the main purpose of those side-mounted turn signal repeaters is to warn cars that are running along side your coach of your intentions. I feel like the majority of the light should be aimed backward at a 45 degree angle to the side of the coach, rather than directly out at a 90 degree angle to the side. That way, the cars overtaking your coach on either side will get maximum warning of your intentions, like for instance if you want to change lanes on a multi-lane freeway.
To try out another option, I ordered two T3157 LED bulbs from Super Bright. When they arrived, I compared the light output and distribution using the LED bulb in the OEM light housing to the Partsam LED light units. I believe the LED replacement bulb gives superior results. (I did replace the lenses on my side lights not long ago, so they are clean and unfogged) The LED bulb does have the 2-stage brightness capability, so it functions properly as both running light and turn signal.
Others may find the Partsam LED lights perfectly acceptable. I elected to return them to Amazon for full refund.
3156/3157 CK LED Bulb - Dual Function 27 SMD LED Tower - Wedge Retrofit |... (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/3156-3157-ck-led-bulb-dual-function-27-smd-led-tower-wedge-retrofit/3557/#/attributes/16)
Photos below compare the original bulb to the LED bulb. The LED appears (to me) to be much brighter from all angles.