Inside door handle broke off in my hand. I'm in my driveway. Anybody had this happen? Call fot?
Part number or manufacturer would be awesome as it looks like the whole assembly may have to be replaced. Tri-mark website is not very user friendly.
Phred,
Had the same thing happen to us this spring, called FT parts, told them what was up and they shipped me out the part. Had it in a few days @ $ 60-70 with shipping and a quick install. ^.^d
Mick
That's good news, and price isn't terrible. Hope they have one left. Was that $ for the whole mechanizum?
If they don't.........it's a Winnebago door. I kid you not.
Phred,
I didn't price the rest of the lock/handle assy. reason being that when I got home and took the assy. apart it was obvious that the inside handle was the weak link. The place where the handle and lock actuator are attached to each other is the WEAK link, cast handle and plate steel actuator with no sign of welding, only a matter of time before failure when used to close the door.Just an interference fit of a square shaft that was 'stroked' with a press.
Mick
Would be interested how this works out; our coach has that "wobble"in the handle and every time I close it, I wonder. I think Airstream used the same junk latches, and I've heard horror stories when they fail.
Mike,
As I said before the set-up it set to fail eventually, possibly because the door handle is at a peculiar angle in relation to the stairs so you have to pull at an upward angle. Without a dedicated pull one is forced to use the door handle.......only a matter of time.
If you remove the brace over the inside assy. (4 screws) and then the handle assy (3 screws) you will be able to see if yours is on the outs. A quick fix would be to support the handle side on something firm with a piece of cloth/towel so the finish isn't marred and a strike or 2 with the ball of an 8 oz hammer till the slack is taken out. b^.^d
Mick
New price is $110 with shipping for the inside piece I received mine recently, and the new one is a total POS with only about an 1/16 inch of pounded steel to hold it on, and its already loose. May cut my losses and pay to send it back + 20% restocking fee. Drill and tap old one or weld it.
After reading all these posts I decided that I had better take our inside handle apart and check the condition of the parts. The inside handle "wobbled" and seemed loose. Turns out the looseness is caused by the inside cover hole for the handle has become worn larger thru time.
Rather than destroy a few feeler gauges trying for the perfect thickness spacer to go around inside the hole, I did something different.
First I filed around the square in order to increase the square length.(Only removed about a 1/32 deep around the four sides of the square, without filing on the square itself) I know, this doesn't seem to make sense--unless you are familiar with the inside handle design. I then bent the actuator plate, just a little, that gets bolted on to the inside handle. As the plate fits onto the inside handle the bend is convex going away from the viewer. I then found a flat washer that would fit over the square on the inside handle. I bolted everything back together using the original washer, the bigger flat washer, the original little #10-32 bolt, light duty Loctite Blue, and WD-40 Dry Silicone Lubricant.
No "wobble" now and no slop in the handle play, It is pulled in nicely by the slight spring action of the bent actuator plate.
I used the dry silicone spray liberally on the door mechanism and now the door closes and latches quietly, without having to slam the hell out of it. (DW now happy.) OH JOY!!
see attached photo, my old handle had no retainer screw, the new one doesn't either. It sure could benefit the life of the handle if it did. I will check to see if there is anything in the way that would prevent this modification on my door mechanism which should match nitehawks but doesnt. hole is bored already in handle so threading a 10-32 tap into it would be easy.
Old (hope you don't mind me getting familiar and using only your first name >:D :)) ) your picture is an exact match for our inside cover. Should have been a bolt in there. Also, I forgot to mention--behind that actuator plate are recesses above & below the handle shaft hole. I did put some chassis grease in those recesses.
DUH!! Just had a sudden brain methane gas emission!!
Something we used to do at a company where I was a designer. We used what is called a "Dutchman's pin" to hold parts together and prevent shearing of the pin.
It involved drilling a small hole at the parting line where two parts meet, and then tapping for a set screw. This might be a bit difficult seeing as how the two materials in this application are not the same hardness. But, the set screw would have to be torn in half, and there is no place for the material to go if the screw just broke.
In this application I would/should have used a round file on the steel part and made a 1/2 circle just a "hair" under the set screw diameter. Then clamp the actuator plate to the handle and proceed to drill & tap for the set screw.
Now, assemble handle, inside plate, actuator plate, #10-32 setscrew, flat washer, and bolt (using medium blue Loctite)
End up using the new part, tapped the hole for 10-32 and added a fender washer. Should be good for another ten years, once I adjust the door strike and fix the bowed screen door.