I'm working through mechanical items on this older coach. When I changed out the fuel filters I found some little bits of something in the bowl. Wasn't sand and wasn't pipe dope, so I'm guessing little bits of rubber from inside the lines. My question is can someone give me a gouge on how much new line I should start out with? Will 30' of 5/8" suction and 30' of 3/8" return be enough? I will do generator also but its right there opposite side of fuel tank and should be easy to measure.
jk
I used 36' each on a U295...But I also added. Don't you want them pre-made with fittings installed? I wouldn't guess.
I couldn't get any answer, even from FT tech
I took a couple of pictures which show the separated rubber "bits" in the fuel filter bowl. Looks like gold; too bad it isn't.
jk
Jack,
Change that filter before driving. If not, you could "starve" the fuel injection pump.
Yeah Brett it won't be going far. Four miles over to the farm shop. What you are seeing is about 100 miles since last filter change. That photo shows just a layer over the bottom of bowl. I can't believe I made it 1200 miles from Pensacola when it is shedding rubber like that. Dumb luck.
jk
I would get 34' of each, better to be a little over than short. A splice is not the end of the world, however this should not be necessary. I had Gates made up ends with Gates hose for the tank end and pulled thru to engine from the tank using the old hose to pull with a short threaded copper pipe nipple to splice new to old to pull thru, the pipe threads helped grip the hose. The hydraulic shop you buy your fuel hose from should make sure you use the right fittings. I used Gates RLA 1-Fiber Braid Return Line and Low Pressure Hose. This was because two local hydraulic shops recommended this for the new fuel and my trusty local truck repair shop also. Note when installing to not kink as this will weaken the new hose and do not twist as this also weakens the hose. One forum user described being able to easily pull back and forth the hose thru the area basement area, that would be ideal indicating no kinks or twists.
Jack,
I would suggest taking a flashlight and mirror over tank fill hole and see if it isn't just a bad load of fuel.
Degradation of the inside of the lines is not the normal failure mode from all that I have read; usually air getting sucked into the line through cracks around end fittings; shows up as hard starts as the engine has to purge the little bit of air that gets in. For some reason, coaches of our generation don't seem to need the lines replaced as much as the late 90's coaches. This just might be my perception but I still have all my original lines in my 1991.
Job completed today.
On this 36' 1992 U280, I used 26' of supply and 26' of return line. Each was about 1' too long really. The sizes were 3/8" supply and 5/16" return. All Foretravels clearly are not plumbed the same. I used old lines to fish from tank back to engine. I bought a couple of tubing unions and connected the old and new fittings together. Pulling the lines was almost a "non event" It went smooth right up until we got to the back transverse bulkhead. Were the raceway exited in front of the back axle, someone had used that yellow spray foam sealer to seal the raceway.(see photo over holding tanks) That brought the pull to a screeching halt. The work around was for my helper to scoot under and use a short tire spoon to "finesse" the line up and down a couple of times so we could finish the pull. On second line, we taped some hard clear plastic from a small package of "O" rings. We cut 1" wide by 5" long strips and taped them over the fitting nuts. (see photo) Also lube the taped connection liberally with silicone spray. Second line hung up at same place. Used the tire spoon plus applied more silicone where line came through spray insulation. Success. Filled the supply line by lightly pressurizing tank with an air hose and bleeding it at primary filter. Loosened and tightened fittings on tank with a modified 7/8" open end wrench (see photo) (idea from this forum). Tank was not relocated or removed. Supply line was dead center of tank. Return close to curb side. (easy) To undo old supply and replace new fitting, I stuck myself on top of propane tank and was able to thread on new line. To loosen it used short wrench, and pried it loosen with short 2x4 and trusty tire spoon.
Summary: I am 68 yrs old 6'1" and 234lbs. Helper was 59 yrs old. We are both old truck drivers among other things. We know tools and breakdowns. The worst part of the job was worrying about removing the darn tank to get at fitting in center. If I can fit in there and reach it, probably most anyone could. I would not attempt it alone however, since a hang up pulling line is probably going to happen. Total time from undoing fittings to starting engine around 2 hours. This ain't no $5000 job.
jk
Forgot to note I used Gates Barricade Fuel Line (not for fuel injection)
jk
On some coaches the tank has to be removed in order to replace the lines, so is not a 2 hour job. The newer coaches are much harder than the one you have.
Has anyone doing this line replacement ever thought of smearing on the old line and joined fittings with the yellow wire pulling grease?? Seems to me that it would help some and may lubricate the adjoining hoses etc for the new line to slide past??
JohnH
I'm only reporting what I did on a 1992 U280.
FWIW
jk
This is what I used.
Klein Tools Wire and Cable Lube - Synthetic Polymer-51015 - The Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Wire-and-Cable-Lube-Synthetic-Polymer-51015/100647818?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-VF-PLA-D27E-Electrical%7c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI84Gp2fyK1wIVDpFpCh16xgMqEAQYASABEgJsYPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLPyid38itcCFUQ5TwodjroFbQ)
That is exactly what I was alluding to. I had not read it in a post though.
JohnH