In the process of replacing my old flooring, I removed most of the furniture that might impede progress. This included the dining room table. Mine is the standard rectangular table with Corian top. it is mounted with the longer dimension running towards the sink. It is mounted on top of a triangular structure that is mounted to the wall; no part of it touches the floor. Mine is designed to slide out about 8" to allow a Corian leaf to be inserted.
Looking at the bare triangular structure, it is longer than the short dimension of the table top. It does look like it could be cut down in length, so that the table top would mount sideways, with the longer side running front to back. This modification would make the walk way wider and make the kitchen seem less crowded. With seats at the two ends, there is more room for two sets of computers to coexist on the table top.
Eventually, I would like to have an even longer table top, that runs along the wall, allowing desk space for two with drawers and filing cabinet. This is a small step in that direction.
Has anyone already made such a change? I would appreciate any feedback concerning such a project.
Thank you,
Trent
Tagging this thread...I'd like to replace our round corian table with what you described.
Converting the standard table (round or rectangular) to a "breakfast bar" that fits in the area under the window is a popular project. You will find several threads covering this subject (see example below). I don't recall anyone turning the existing rectangular table sideways, so that might be a unique approach. One of the "short" edges would be cut off square and unfinished, so you would need to deal with that. Otherwise, seems like it would work. Go for it, and document the process for future (Forum) posterity!
Our Days Spent in Remodel Shop (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=22542.msg172800#msg172800)
Granted our coach is much older but here is what I did after talking with Carol Savournin. (God bless her!!) It made a tremendous difference and we love it.
Here is another interesting variation on the concept (including the drawer space you mentioned), from Bruce and Linda:
Removing dinnet booth (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=26282.msg210135#msg210135)
We cut ours down to 26" deep and put and built a 21" wide x 24" deep cabinet. Also put outlets in the cabinet at the back. If I where to do it again I would do an 18" wide cabinet. Got chairs from Ikea.
Nice.
Just to be sure. Are these curb side or driver side?
A little OT, how/where are you sourcing the 110Volt s to the curbside table area? Thanks.
I want to power up the entertainment system mounted under the curbside window .
They all look like curbside to me.
JohnH
On our coach there was already a existing duplex outlet on the triangular support brace under the OEM table. I had the FOT crew add a second outlet when they built our table, so we now have 4 plugs available under the table (which is on the curb side).
Curb side, like others three was an existing outlet in the table base.
Ours is even worse, the duplex outlet is mounted below the upper cabinet. If there is a lower duplex, I've never seen it. If I still had my cabinet shop, I'd do exactly as above: the table & chairs are a total waste of storage and counter space for us!
The common table slide for FT was a sliding dovetail arrangement between parts on the top of the base and the bottom of the table. To rotate the table 90 degrees you either have to rotate the parts at the top of the base or on the bottom of the table top. The slide pieces on the bottom of the table top are attached to pieces glued on with (most likely) epoxy, tough to get off. But you may be able to glue on new pieces to the bottom of the table that let you reattach the sliding parts in the orientation you want. The parts on the pedestal might be easier on yours but adjustments to the slide parts on the bottom of the table give you more flexibility.
Common paraffin wax on all of the contact points on the sliding parts makes these much easier to operate.
We rotated our table 180 degrees to shift its position 11" to the front (too much) and then glued on new parts to the bottom of the table to reposition the slide parts to adjust the change to about 6" (much better). Next is a new tabletop in solid cherry with mesquite inlays.
On our '93 U225, there was an outlet under the upper cabinet AND an outlet on the support beam for the oval dining table. When we first talked to David Flanagan about modifying the dining table(because we had trouble squeezing in the spaces), he looked at my husband's somewhat ample mid-section and said,"It is a lot easier to modify THAT than it is to cut down that table!" He then showed us a recent Breakfast Bar that he had done in a complete interior remodel. SOLD!! I had him add an access hole for feeding elec cords down to the lower outlet, with a plastic cover ... similar to those used in computer desks. Our Square Chairs fit perfectly under the breakfast bar ... although we seldom used it for eating. It was more a work surface, prep area, buffet. VERY handy!!
After taking our the oval Corian and replacing it with a drop leaf that was too long front to back and then one that was "just right". DW saw a coach at FOT with the counter and that was the end of the tables. Put in a 4' countertop 25" wide left to right on the curb side. Put in an eight cubbie storage under it yet giving room to sit comfortably to computer or eat. Of course, we still have too much stuff and so the table always has stuff on it but DW is happy so...
Mine are curb side.
My mounting pedestal has 110 VAC on the side of the pedestal, with wiring running up the wall inside the pedestal.
Trent
Chuck,
Your Pedestal modification was exactly what I was looking for.
How long and deep is that new table of yours?
Thanks,
Trent
Great thread. We are going to remove the original, round Corian table and do a farm rectangular table sitting on a small cabinet for Sandy's sewing machine and supplies.
Thanks Carol and Bruce.
Our table was sized to fit in the existing space, and ended up being perfect in our opinion. The table depth was set by the size of the existing half wall between the entry door and the table area, so that dimension came out exactly
24" deep. We wanted the table as wide as possible, but with enough room left that we could still open the hutch cabinet doors. So the table ended up
60" long, which leaves about 3/4" clearance when we open the hutch doors. The table is
30" high above the floor, which is also the height of the half wall, and which seems the perfect height (for us) when sitting at the table.
The shelf under the table is 7" below the table, 12" deep, and runs full length of the table. The shelf position is also perfect - it does not hit our knees when we sit at the table, and it allows the chairs to be slid all the way under the table when they are not being used.
The original table support was trimmed back to 22.5" long (from the wall). I think it was left in it's original mounting position, but I could be wrong about that. All of the sliding mechanism was removed and it was widened to provide more support for the new table.
The beautiful table top is about 1" thick solid walnut, made up from scratch by Larry and Bookie in the FOT Remodel shop.
You need more Irish whiskey Mike. Then you might get low enough to see it. (or even both pink duplexes) :))
I rather like the idea of turning the table to north-south even though I can still get by the extended table now, But I'm working on that.
Ha! Got the flashlight out and, yes, there is a duplex on the folding table arm, almost impossible to get to. Stupid design!