All I've read here says that it is best to drive our coaches for ~50 miles at least monthly. On a general rv forum I mentioned that as something to be considered when deciding between a MH and a towable. Several people took issue with me, saying that they simply do the normal departure checks, turn the key and go, even after as long as six months. After spending as much as we paid for our coach on a new engine I don't want to damage it in any way. On the other hand, when we're going to be parked at a job for several months, sometimes packing everything up and going for a drive can be an all-day affair.
So, what's the truth? It depends?
Doesn't hurt to drive it every mo, however I agree that it can be an all day affair. Coach's/trucks, diesel boats, heavy equipment sit for for extended periods with no adverse a effects. I wouldn't loose any sleep over it, JMHO.
Well.... I know what some will say, I know what the "experts" say........and I know what I do.........
If I need to crank it up for some reason..... I do it.
If I don't need to start it...... I don't.
It's a Diesel...... between my trucks, tractors, jeep, land cruiser and a FT motorhome... I own 13 diesel engines. Never had an issue with them related to starting or not starting them on schedule or too often. One old Ford tractor is 50 years old and never had a wrench on the engine besides starter or generator replacement.
I wouldn't worry about it if I were you... Do what you need to do.
Just my opinion.... worth what you paid for it.
More important is letting it warm up all the way when it is started when I do start it I at least pull her out of the garage then run generator for at least 30 minutes with air or electric aqua hot running.
Letting the wabesto burner go through a cycle on the aqua hot monthly is probably more important than firing the Cummins and gen as often.
A lot of old highly abused cedar rapids rock quarry equipment had supercharged 6V71 Detroit's in them would set for the winter months, get fired up and within minutes would be at full throttle crushing rocks. The green leakers would change their own oil about every 300 hours or less and get new oil filters every 1500 hours. Just saying, as I would not recommend the same treatment.
Having read a bit on the subject myself I understand your concern David because of varying opinions. I can only offer my own experience from being in the trucking business and owning Cat's, Detroit and Cummins. I've never known of any issue with any of mine because of not running one and I have never heard another trucking company owner comment on the subject. When you own a yard full of equipment there will always be equipment sitting for extended periods of non use. I don't worry about it or think about it.
You got me again,have been pondering all morning,what is a green leaker?Nearest I could come up with is it's a radiator with the green coolant that has a hole in it.
Green leakers - Detroit two cycle engines. If they where not run hard or left to idle or light loads they leaked most out of the air box drains. Cylinders would get glazed over and just make things worse. I know you guys wont believe this but at one time Detroit Diesel had a service letter that if you had a customer engine that was having this issue was to first have the engine do a controlled digest of a little Bon-Ami cleanser to try and scuff the piston liner walls.
Charlie
Green leakers = 53 and 71 series Detroit diesel. If they are not leaking check the oil quick.
Noticed everyone that calls them leakers does'nt have one!!!
Our engine leaked like crazy when we first got it. Since I had heard that all Detroits leaked I wasn't too concerned. I just checked the oil and added as needed. The Jeep went to the car wash after every few travel days. Then we had the engine rebuilt. After the test drive the tech crawled underneath to see if there were any problems. The first thing he found was an oil pressure sender that was pouring oil out. MOT replaced it when we had the first oil change done after the rebuild. Since then I think I've added maybe a half a gallon of oil, and the Jeep is much cleaner.
No Detroit 2 cycle installed in a Foretravel will leak any oil unless a fitting or hose is faulty. Old tales from the '40s and '50s die hard. Ours leaks less than our car.
Pierce
John, drove 12 71s over 1/2 million miles in the early 70s, chassis never rusted. 92 series and better gaskets made the leaks go away.
The older engines had stamped tin valve covers with only two hold downs. The introduction of rigid cast aluminum covers solved that problem.
The GM buses with the sidewinder (transverse) engines at the rear mounted the engine part way on it's side to cut the overall bus length. This allowed the oil to pool where the valve cover met the cylinder head with resulting oil leaks on the exhaust manifold, the engine and finally, on the ground. Many 8V-71 bus conversions today have been retro fitted with the 6V-92TA with the cast covers so even with the engine at an angle, the leak problem is no longer a factor.
The sidewinder GM installations allowed the engine to be removed in less than one hour with or without the transmission. The engine had no belt drives, only a 300 watt brushless oil cooled direct drive alternator. The fan was PTO driven so no belts anywhere. There was a 90 degree drive between the engine and transmission with the rear end having an angled third member. The entire back of the bus opened in three sections so access was only seconds away. The spare tire was in a compartment behind the fold down front bumper. Air bags gave it superb handling. Too bad no disc brakes. Tall gearing on the highway models gave a minimum 10 mpg even in mountains.
Pierce
I have been wanting to post on this subject since Harvey. Facebook has a app "Safety Check" when you are in a crisis. Having family and friends throughout South Texas I was monitoring it when Harvey hit Rockport. A poster was inquiring about the condition of a RV park. Seems they had to abandon their 5th wheel they were full timing in. They had been working in the area and went to leave but could not get the slides in. I'm sure they lost everything...
We almost left in the FT before the flooding got too bad, but glad we decided to stay, two son's and son-in law spent 3 days rescuing people in our boat. We fortunately are high and did not directly get water damage but were trapped by the flooding. Best to always be prepared to leave on short notice.
David
To get back to your original question about taking your unit for a run monthly, I'm not sure monthly is necessary but long periods without running can sometimes dry out seals in other area than the engine for example the seals in the power steering pump etc.
just something to think about
"...long periods without running can sometimes dry out seals in other area than the engine for example the seals in the power steering pump etc. " How well I know! Many years ago I moved from Wisconsin to Nebraska. The car I had in Wisconsin didn't have air conditioning, and Nebraska summers can be rather warm, so I decided to trade. I didn't have much money, but I found an 11-year-old Cadillac Fleetwood 75 Sedan with only 33,000 miles on it. It was black and had a few scratches on the hood, but everything worked, so I traded for it. I thought I was really getting something. I sure did. About once a month I'd take it in to the mechanic to have a few more seals and gaskets replaced. I should have realized that an 11-year-old car with only 33,000 miles only put on 3,000 miles per year, which meant that it spent most of the time sitting still.
We're thinking that when we're in Owensboro for three months we'll try to take a Saturday or Monday (depending on which day we have off) and take the Foretravel for a drive.
When I am sitting here in in the dead of winter and it is cold out, the roads will dry up and the sun will come out. I need to run the gen and AH anyway so the AH starts heating the engine and the coach, the gen runs the charger and a heat pump and helps with the AH and after a bit the barn doors are flung open, the coach starts up (easy with an AH) and we go for a 30 mile drive. A couple miles on a county road, nice and easy and then out on a highway, 55 mph and then a few miles on another at 65 to an exit, back over the highway and down the entrance ramp and back towards home. At the turn around we are up to temp on all gauges and rolling easy. Back home, its back into the barn, all shut down, plugged in, doors locked and back inside where it is cozy warm.
Best part of this exercise for me is my smiling muscles. It just feels so good to get out and go. It only happens a couple times during the winter before we just point it south, two days to warm. Wonderful.
Roger, I bet the neighbors wonder just what you're doing in the dead of winter or are they used to the "nut" out for a spin. Do they know why you're doing it or just think you're afraid that the coach is lonely out in the garage?
Nuts or not we all get along pretty well. We are in a rural wooded area. In the summer with leaves it seems secluded. Now with the leaves fallen the neighbors all seem closer and we see through the trees to a much wider view of the river. i like the changing season. A snow that stays will be welcome.