Based on Bobs comment of needing to change the bell bearing at 1000 hours on my post of reworking the gen set, I started checking. The maintenance was confirmed by Protech and reading Barry's description of those units most likely to fail. I decided not run my set until I could get it in for the work(thanks to solar I did not have to use it).
Today I took it to a 30 year tech for the job. When he was finished we discussed what the old bearing looked like once pulled. He said it wasn't imminent but was inevitable. The bearing was dry and you could feel contact when it was rotated. It hadn't started chirping yet. I highly recommend that you read Barry's post on contributing factors as it fit us to a T.
Important to check generator brushes... & have a good Phoenix generator shop. (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28746.msg240715#msg240715)
My set had 1575 hours of intermittent use.
Thanks and a shout out to Bob and Barry!
2/19: Title edited by Brett to reflect Powertech.
Did he pull the bearing from the housing or take the whole housing off?,have my gen. out to change radiator,thinking of replacing bearing.
Removed the entire bell housing. Not difficult but takes a bit of time. Take a look at Barry's post with the pictures and you can see the process.
John the bearing is a little less than $30 and well worth doing.
Follow up on bearing,ordered a bearing puller set on Ebay,$29.99 and works great,got brushes and bearing from Powertech.
Barry and Cindy,I ordered their bearing just to see what brand it was(chineese).
Powertech also sent the o-ring that goes in the bearing housing.Will put the bearing on today.
My genset is the IDL 8000 and has 1200 hours,the bearing was still ok but dry and not long for this world.
John & George too,
Thanks for your update on replacing gen bearing. Something we all hear about, but this is one item that is often put off.
Bearing puller does a nice job of removing bearing, but without a press, a hammer and deep socket seems to be the tool of choice for 'pressing' on a new bearing.
Getting the bearing into the right location during the hammer press can take some effort, if the shaft does not show where old bearing was positioned. Only when the housing is re-installed, will it be known if bearing is in correct place.
I remember our gen tech saying that the outer bearing race should be a tight-fit into the housing opening, to keep rotations in the bearing and not between the outer race and housing. I recall he used some Loctite to help keep the outer race in constant contact with housing. I don't recall knowing about the o-ring.
Keep us posted. . .
I would love to see some details on your bearing swap as I need to do mine as well.
Mark
My '99 is brushless and has a longer bearing life according to Jeff at Protech. Call him with your serial number. to find out about yours.
Barry,mine must be a little different,it takes the 2" bearing as opposed to the 2 other sizes,you hammer it on til it hits the stop
lip,the housing goes on last and that is what the o-ring does,helps to grab the outer race.
I see multiple references to "protech" is that supposed to be powertech, or is there another firm called protech that works on these powertech generators?
Looks like the only one I see is Craneman's,think he meant powertech,Jeff is in field service but doubles as the tech services
question guy,talked to him twice while he was driving,very polite and helpful.
Yes I meant Powertech
Sorry folks on the Protech vs Powertech. Not sure how to edit it but perhaps a moderator could do their magic. Search won't be available to others if it isn't. No quick edit was/is available.
In the past, I have always been able to edit something I posted if there was a mistake. Believe there was a button for edit or quick edit; click on it, make the change, and click save. I think only the original poster can do that, but that feature may disappear after a certain amount of time.