About 2 hours out of Nac I stop to grab a bite to eat and when I do my walk around there is oil all over the rear of the coach and some that has dripped down off the mud flap.
That didn't take long.
hmm -
call MOT - Aubry or Keith can help you figure this out
check hydraulic lines and pump
may want to turn around
Tim Fiedler
Sure Start Soft Start (http://www.gen-pro.biz)
TCER Direct (http://www.tcerdirect.com) generator-gas-prod (http://www.generatorgasproducts.com) 630 240-9139
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Also, check the fill cap on the valve cover, if it is missing you will get oil all over everything. If it is missing I once used a screwdriver with a shop towel pushed down in the opening to get me to a parts store to buy a replacement.
Yeah, I felt stupid.
Len
Not if it's a Cat, that's just part of the oiling system..... ::)
Seriously, get it checked out
Have a wonderful Thanksgiving
Chris and Tammy
Take a close look at the hydraulic lines back there. The fan for the radiator is powered by hydraulics makes an awful mess when a hose ruptures. And the toad gets an oil bath. A shop that makes up hydraulic hoses can make new ones. I don't believe there is a need to return to Nacogdoches. The coach can still be driven some just watch the engine temperature gauge and don't let the engine overheat. If you have road service it may be possible to have hoses made up where you are.
Roland
Talked to Keith Davis at MOT. Sent him a few picks of where it is leaking. Oil pressure is good, plenty of oil on the dipstick. Going to drive it to a Cummins dealership and deal with it in the AM
What kind of maintenance did you have done? Oil/filter change?
OK, what color is the oil. Black is engine and you can't get it off your hands unless you have lots of hand cleaner. The lighter green/brown is oil for the hydraulic motor/pump. Red is transmission fluid.
If a hose ruptures, you will lose the cooling fan(s) fast and you can see it on the temp gauge. Could be a hydraulic seal on one of the motors/pump.
So, raise the bed and take a look for topside leaks. Can you see anything with the engine door open? Use strong flashlight.
Spray car wash plus a grease remover will clean up the rear and toad. It really covered our toad when the hydraulic hose failed.
Usually, a problem after having your vehicle serviced is related to the service.
Pierce
Pierce I think he just bought it at MOT yesterday and is on his way home.
As well as power steering. Always check chafing hoses when in the engine compartment.
I'd head back to MOT and get them to sort it out. Your signature isn't dry yet. ;D
It's pretty dry.
Honest, I don't think it's big deal. I will know tomorrow.
On to getting the house batteries to charge.
Knew it would be an adventure. Just an opportunity to practice being calm.
Maybe I missed something but isn't the house battery condition and charging something MOT should have checked?How do you
know the batteries are not charging?
Would head back to MOT, at least for a diagnosis. Cummins dealerships seem to range from good to complete ripoffs. Oil dripping off mudflap is not a normal situation.
If Mot can't fix it, they can probably tell you someone reliable that can.
I agree, if it's hydraulic oil, you may be paying a Cummins engine tech hours to learn how your hydraulic system works, and that education may be expensive. Local Cummins dealer here is quite notorious, for being very creative for man hour charges.
If it is a hydraulic hose issue the diagnosis is easy. And so is the repair. Had a hose rupture in Almogordo NM got it fixed at a Car Quest that worked on heavy equipment.
Roland
I don't understand how a coach could go out the door at MOT with a battery issue and an oil leak.
Just sayin'.
Would an easy one if they knew and owner decided to fix it himself? 1st guess.
Nothing bad to say about MOT. We made a deal and they did their part. It was a consignment coach.
I had it inspected and knew most everything going in. The oil leak wasn't there to find until yesterday.
It's a motor home, stuff is going to happen.
Sometimes you just "gotta do what you gotta do"
Our dealer had our cruise control fixed before we took delivery. Worked until we were coming back from TX for the winter, then it quit.
I "made do" with a bar clamp by inverting the clamp heads on the bar then placing the fixed end on the fuel pedal and the ratcheting end on the bottom side of the dash. Ratchet up until desired speed was attained. Kept my hand on the release--just in case.
Attached is what the cruise connection "repair" was done by the truck repair south of town.
Turns out there was, for some reason(?) a loose connection in this mess! Wonder why?
Like you said, there was no oil leak until after it was serviced.
None of us are in a position to determine whether this is minor or major-- since we don't know the source or even kind of oil.
I would determine what it is and its source before making any decision.
Examine it:
Is it black (engine oil)?
Red/pink (transmission fluid)?
Clean motor oil (hydraulic fluid)
Gear lube (rear axle fluid)
Are the house batteries not charging from alternator/engine or from shore power (inverter/charger)?
We had oil all over the back of our coach when we first bought it. Turned out that I put the dipstick in but didn't turn it so it locked in. There is a groove on the dipstick tube and a ring on the dipstick that lock it in place.
Hope this helps.
I did that once on our 2003 Foretravel. Minor blow by easily cleaned, never made the mistake again.
Was just reading about high pressure injection injury. Please read about this and beware! :o Also in our case the hydraulic hose that actually ruptured was the main one that goes from the pump to the first fan motor. Makes sense it is under the most pressure. The one between the first and second fan motor had no abrasion areas so I left it. The hoses fail (in my experience) due to abrasion. You have to take apart the hose bundles to see the damage or to do an adequate inspection. I don't replace any hose not under pressure. I think they'll all be fine.
Ever since then I am very gentle on the steering wheel. Why tempt fate on a 42' long hydraulic pressure hose when I have no repair fittings.
What was the source of your Oil Leak issue?
Hope to figure it out today.
You may have to go to Cummins with the engine numbers to get the correct copper washer. That drain plug should take a 1 1/4 inch socket to remove.
I was able to get one from a Peterbuilt dealer near me.
With some inspiration from craneman I removed the oil fill tube fixed the warp in the plate that attaches it to the block, made sure the plate was as smooth and flat as I could make it, made a new gasket, and put it all back together. Started her up and let her run for about 20 minutes. That part isn't leaking anymore. Not sure I understand how the oil moved backwards to the oil pan but it seems like craneman's assessment was correct as there were no further drips. I am still going to replace that crush washer before we move her again in two weeks.
Not sure how that thing didn't leak on the trip from WI to TX, or on Brett's inspection ride, or my 40+ minute drive around town but it was dry when I left MOT and wet 3 hours down the road. Guess she just wanted me to know who was in charge.
It is so good to hear of simple fixes...... Well, Not so easy, just not an expensive fix.
I have experienced occasions of Fiona letting me know who is in charge.......for example only starting quickly and easily when leaving for a trip, and slide always working properly at home. I know fuel lines need replacing causing the start up issues, and finding loose connections for slide pin sensors, that were mislabeled. I'm sure "Fiona" will show me other ways to insure she gets attention time to time.
david