Foretravel Owners' Forum

Foretravel Motorhome Forums => Foretravel Tech Talk => Topic started by: KenKetch on November 21, 2017, 06:22:30 pm

Title: Headlights
Post by: KenKetch on November 21, 2017, 06:22:30 pm
The Headlights and Aux lights on my 2000 U320 stopped working. The running lights still work.
I talked with James at FT and he suggested that it may be the Smart wheel controller. I am wondering if any forum member has had this issue with their coach. I would like to diagnose it but not sure where to begin. I checked to see that there is voltage at the headlight switch and there is.

Thank you for any suggestions.
Title: Re: Headlights
Post by: DavidS on November 21, 2017, 08:46:08 pm
Check the bulb plug .. thses are made with the old chevy plugs and prone to fry and melt.. possible it melted and shorted.. fuse


Id pull the bulb first to see if the socket has power

My avalanche stopped working one night.. went to the dealer to get it fixed.. turned out that both bulbs burned out the same night

I know, I know.. just my luck
Title: Re: Headlights
Post by: Tom Lang on November 22, 2017, 12:15:56 am
I would pull out the schematics and see how they are wired. Then do some testing with a voltmeter. My guess is that only the low beams are out, as the fog lights only come on when the low beams are always on.  Might be a relay.
Title: Re: Headlights
Post by: morninghill on November 22, 2017, 02:34:03 pm
Had the same symptoms, got the same advice from James T. As usual, he was right.

Find your smart wheel controller. Mine is under the false floor under the cabinet in the center of the dash. Check wires 101 and 225 at connector p12. Both wires and the p12 connector were fried. New controller fixed it. About $250 from FOT. Manufacturer will sell it, probably cheaper.

If you need to replace the controller, don't forget to order a new connector for the wires. Had to fake it as none available in Laredo and we were crossing into Mexico that weekend.
Title: Re: Headlights
Post by: craneman on November 22, 2017, 02:39:51 pm
Had the same symptoms, got the same advice from James T. As usual, he was right.

Find your smart wheel controller. Mine is under the false floor under the cabinet in the center of the dash. Check wires 101 and 225 at connector p12. Both wires and the p12 connector were fried. New controller fixed it. About $250 from FOT. Manufacturer will sell it, probably cheaper.

If you need to replace the controller, don't forget to order a new connector for the wires. Had to fake it as none available in Laredo and we were crossing into Mexico that weekend.
Good info I book marked it.
Title: Re: Headlights
Post by: KenKetch on November 22, 2017, 09:58:56 pm
Had the same symptoms, got the same advice from James T. As usual, he was right.

Find your smart wheel controller. Mine is under the false floor under the cabinet in the center of the dash. Check wires 101 and 225 at connector p12. Both wires and the p12 connector were fried. New controller fixed it. About $250 from FOT. Manufacturer will sell it, probably cheaper.

If you need to replace the controller, don't forget to order a new connector for the wires. Had to fake it as none available in Laredo and we were crossing into Mexico that weekend.

Mike, Thank you for your information.  I hope to find time this weekend to check it out.
Title: Re: Headlights
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on November 23, 2017, 09:08:21 am
Had the same symptoms, got the same advice from James T. As usual, he was right.
Doesn't affect us directly, but reading this as a impartial observer, I would want to know WHY the wires fried at the controller.  Any wires that heat up enough to char really get my attention.  That circuit is obviously not protected.  Did Triana offer any clue as to why this happens?
Title: Re: Headlights
Post by: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart on November 23, 2017, 12:32:10 pm
When I replaced the headlights with HIDs, I used the hot side of the ignition solenoid and ran a new FUSED heavier line down into the nose where I installed a relay. Turning on the headlights triggers the relay and they get full voltage while the load on the dash switch is minimal. Easy to troubleshoot now.

Pierce
Title: Re: Headlights
Post by: Chuck Pearson on November 23, 2017, 01:16:48 pm
When I replaced the headlights with HIDs, I used the hot side of the ignition solenoid and ran a new FUSED heavier line down into the nose where I installed a relay. Turning on the headlights triggers the relay and they get full voltage while the load on the dash switch is minimal. Easy to troubleshoot now.

Pierce


That's an excellent idea.  Occasionally when the four HID lights are triggered on my  coach they drop system voltage enough to throw snake eyes on the transmission controller.  Reusing existing wiring was not such a good idea.
Title: Re: Headlights
Post by: morninghill on November 24, 2017, 02:34:42 pm
James T opined the wires were fried by either a loose connection or by too high a draw from the headlight upgrade.

Possibly a combination. We've been driving with marker lights and low beams during the day for the past 4 years. Not any more. Marker lights only.

Forgot to mention, James T said he thought an emergency repair might be to splice 101 and 225 together, bypassing the smart wheel controller. He also thought this might result in only being able to turn the headlights off by breaking the splice. He was clear he was NOT recommending this.