Good morning, I bought a 1995 Gran Villa U-240 recently. When I turn the ignition on, I hear several clicks off and on coming from the relay panel.
The shift indicator shows 2 diagonal lines, one in each side that look like this / /.
If you turn the switch on and off quite a few times in succession the N N will show up momentarily. If you are quick enough you can hit the start circuit and the engine will start.
Then when you push the button the put it in gear the 6 and 1 will blink and finally go in gear but drop out a couple time before staying in gear. But once it get in gear and you drive a while, you can shut the engine and start it back up with no problem.
If it stays shutdown over night it starts all over.
The transmission ECU is loosing 12 VDC power.
Raise the dashboard.
On the left side, locate the IGNITION SOLENOID.
Check between each of the large lugs and the ground strip (far left forward) for 12 VDC. One side will be chassis battery voltage all the time.
The other large lug will show that same voltage when the ignition switch is on.
Let us know what you find and we can lead you through testing the solenoid and ignition switch.
BTW, that shifter display is known as "snake eyes".
I would NOT drive it until this is resolved. Could leave you stranded and/or damage the transmission ECU.
Could be a low voltage problem or the ignition solenoid. Check voltage with a digital meter at the ignition solenoid just under the dash top in front of the driver. It's fairly large and silver. Check voltage on the hot side (driver's left) and then the opposite side when you turn the key and attempt to start. A ground point is just a few inches away.
Other possibility is the connectors on the start/engine batteries. Always good to inspect, remove and clean.
Here is the Cole-Hersee 24213 solenoid. Don't use any other number unless you change to a solid state solenoid.
Amazon.com: Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24213-Continuous-Solenoid/dp/B005K2429I) May be less expensive on ebay.
Pierce
Sorry to pile on a new guy with bad news, but there is another possible cause of your transmission problem. The thread linked below details my experience (2 years ago) with the same symptoms. It is kinda long, but if you take the time to read through it, it may give you some additional ideas on how to proceed.
In any situation like this, start your trouble shooting with the easy, simple stuff, like checking for low voltage or a wonky ignition solenoid. If that doesn't work, move on to the more time-consuming (and expensive) options.
Agree 100% with Brett - do whatever it takes to address this concern. Failure to do so can leave you "dead in the water" at a inopportune time.
No start, with Allison "snake eyes" (Problem Solved) (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=25783.0)
Brett is the ace on these (Common) issues.
Low tart batteries, loose or corroded terminal connections would be where I would start, easy to diagnose If owner selling coach, very possible batteries were in need of replacement and wouldn't hold a charge, or terminals corroded/not tight
Ignition solenoid a VERY common failure so much so that many carry a spare (unit they put in a Blue Sea version at least)
and yes, the ECU cn and has gone bad on a few coaches, but the majority of the time the first two fixes (and much lower $$$) cure your issues.
Welcome!!
Tim Fiedler
Sure Start Soft Start (http://www.gen-pro.biz)
TCER Direct (http://www.tcerdirect.com) generator-gas-prod (http://www.generatorgasproducts.com) 630 240-9139
Gen-Pro
Hmm may have found the culprit. Hope so anyway. While checking the voltage through the solenoid, I found the nut holding the wires on the outlet of the solenoid was loose enough to need a 3/4 turn on the nut holding them. We'll see says the blind man
Excellent-- that would certainly do it. Now, all you have is the LABOR CHARGE. Write yourself a check.
It was probably changed once before and the P.O. didn't tighten it up well. If it's a little loose, the constant vibration will loosen it further.
You can always take a starter button cable from a parts store, connect one end to the big, constant hot side and the other to the small momentary hot side of the solenoid and then push the button. Naturally, in neutral. The engine starter should crank then.
So, what did the blind man see?
Pierce
Perhaps some mis-communication here. I believe the OP found a loose nut on the IGNITION SOLENOID. With ignition on, it should be HOT all the time (not intermittent) until ignition/key turned off.
Starter solenoid is a completely different beast. But when the transmission comes up with "snake eyes" there is a voltage problem independent of the starter solenoid.
Wiring from "always hot" lug (chassis battery side) of ignition solenoid to small terminal would address a bad ignition switch or bad wiring from it to the ignition solenoid. But would do nothing if the solenoid is receiving signal from the ignition switch but is bad.
Brett,
I wrote too fast. If you use a jumper switch, the big lug on the opposite side of the solenoid should become hot. This checks the solenoid. If there is no juice at the small terminal when you turn the ignition switch on, then the ignition switch or wiring is defective.
Pierce
Well here we go, cleaned all contacts did everything everyone suggested, then did the hairdryer trick. Clarabell started, checked codes and sure enough 69-32. Let her set over night get cooled off no start, used hair dryer and Clarabell fired off.
Contemplated just carrying a hair dryer around but my luck the generator wouldn't start LOL.
Gonna contact Transmission folks Monday and see how their work load is. Guess what The wife will be giving me for Christmas, yep and ECU rebuild.
Any thoughts on removing the key pad some help needed here.
I am not sure which shift pad and transmission ECM you have, but I would start here with these folks...
Transmission Instruments (http://www.transmissioninstruments.com)
Here is also a trouble shooting guide from his site;
http://www.transmissioninstruments.com/troubleshooting.html
Don
Sorry to hear that you have fallen victim to trouble code 69-32. Been there - done that.
Removing the touch pad should be fairly simple. It is held in place by two threaded studs on the back. On our coach, the pad is mounted to the left of the steering wheel, in a boxed in area. Access to the back side is via a removable "lid" on the box. Lift the lid off, and you should see the two nuts and brackets securing the touch pad. Pull the connector plug, remove nuts...
Totally agree. Mr Kopalek is THE MAN for Allison shift pad/ECU issues.
You cannot find a more honest, knowledgeable, and reasonable shop then Transmission Instruments.