Beginning in the middle of next week, I will have my 2005 36' U270 parked where the overnight temperatures are supposed to drop into the mid twenties. I will be working nearby during the day and staying in the coach at night. I will have a small Lasko heater running in the water manifold bay and one in the bay with the water hose reel. I will have the water hose disconnected and reeled in at night. Are there any other precautions that I should take? I appreciate everyone's advice. Thank you in advance
I camped in 14f highs and -5 lows in Buffalo NY and had no problems just using a 200w heater in the water pump bay. The temps youre gonna see wont even get close to freezing anything with the insulated bays of a FT!
Here is what I would do. Fill the LP tank. Fill the water tank and leave the hose in all the time unless you are filling the tank. Run the small heaters at each end of the wet bay. Use the coach furnaces. Leave them on during the day to keep the coach warm. If you are not there turn the tstat down to 55 of 60. You should be OK. Probably a bunch of frost on the windows. Turn on the block heater the night before you need to start your engine.
We've been in our U240 when it was in the single digits. The propane blast furnaces kept it warm. I'd be surprised if you had any trouble.
I like to keep one or two small Lasko heaters sitting up on the dash, blowing toward the windshield. They help to reduce (or often eliminate) the condensation on the inside of the glass. This is a particular concern in GV models, but worth avoiding in all coaches.
Amazon.com: Lasko #100 MyHeat Personal Ceramic Heater: Home & Kitchen (https://www.amazon.com/Lasko-100-MyHeat-Personal-Ceramic/dp/B003XDTWN2)
hmmm. if propane heat is on in the coach that is...
FWIW I had my U-270 freeze the water pump 2 x in NAC on a couple of nights where it got down to 28 degrees -
agree - heat on - no problem. Heat off, warm the wet bay with some aux heat - incandescent bulb or small heater
personal heater and temperature on/off switch is easiest safest. I got my 115V temp on/off switch on-line, then I saw them at a farm store (Wilco or tractor supply, I forget) - might even be a home depot item - for sure amazon
Tim Fiedler
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Gen-Pro
This is our second winter living in the FT! Took a lot of precautions the first time around, many of them were unnecessary. We have young kids so overkill felt necessary. If the lows only plan to reach 25, you probably don't need to take any additional precautions over what you've done other than your own personal comfort level. But assuming you'll face colder weather at some point, here is what we've learned living in temps that didn't get over freezing for many days in a row.
Two options:
1) Propane heat: If you are just letting the propane furnace run, at temps near freezing your full propane tank should last 2 or 3 weeks, depending on how high you like to keep temps when you are inside. Propane furnace will heat the lower bays fine (we have 7 temp gauges at various points we identified as "risk areas", you really don't need any supplementary heat except for comfort/convenience. The only time we ever had to make an adjustment was on a very sunny day, high of 15 degrees outside, where the sun heated the interior of the coach very nicely, and so the furnace didn't run very much - so the temps in the bays fell to the mid 30's, and we had to run a few heaters down below.
2) Electric heat: I like to use 6 total heaters. Three above, and three below. One 1500 Watt heater for the room we are in (say the main area in front), plus a 200 W heat for the bathroom and another for the bedroom. Then I like to run 3 200W heaters underneath. One in the main bay, one at the water drain access, and one at the water fill access. This would keep the coldest areas of the underneath in the mid-high 40's on a night with a low of 20. This is very comfortable, if you are skimping it, you really don't need that many. If you have the power available, you can also run the heat strip of one of the A/C units in additional the heaters, and you'll feel like you are in Bermuda on the beach.
This might be what Tim is talking about. We have used one for many years to control the heat source at our (house) water well. Although it seems to be very reliable, I replace it every third season just to be safe. The advertised "ON" temp of about 35 degrees is always accurate according to my outside thermometer.
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We have one of those in our coach for the winter months. Also used it in our pump house in Wa state. Worked really well. You just plug in the heater and it comes on as required. I open all the doors to cabinets so the warmer air can circulate in.
If you leave the water heater on (electric or propane), it likely will keep the entire bay from freezing.
I spent last winter in Lexington, KY with nights down to 5 or so. With electric space heaters, you will need to manage the load on individual circuits. If you try and hook up too many in the coach you will pop circuit breakers. I ran a separate extension cord from the pedestal up under the bed into the bedroom for additional electric heat.
We live on the side of a hill with a southern exposure so the day time temps are usually in the fifties. Unless it's going to go down to 24 degrees or below, I don't do anything to the coach while it's only has a tarp on it outside. Below that, I either keep the rear furnace on at the minimum temperature or keep the water heater on. The rear heater has a duct down below. If you have replaced the wall thermostat on the furnace with one with a battery inside, make sure it's fresh. If you are sleeping in the coach, keep the water heater on and the front furnace to where you want it to say comfortable if you don't like the noise the rear furnace makes.
Pierce
Have three ways to warm the water bay:
1. PROPANE
Two Foretravel original furnace ducts. This does not work if using overhead heat strips. This is boondock-friendly since the furnace does not use much electrical power.
2. 400 WATTS ELECTRIC
Two 200 watt 25 ft heat tapes, one on each side, loosely snaked around the pipes and tanks. It's built-in thermostat turns on at 42 degrees F.
3. FANS
I just drilled two three inch holes from the main cabin to the water bay. One hole has a three inch 115VAC fan, which forces warm air from the main cabin into the water bay. The return hole has a grill on it and acts as the return air duct. This way, as long as the cabin temperature is at least 55 degrees, the water bay should not freeze. I also have two fans circulating around both right and left water bays. This is boondock-friendly since the fans only use less than 8 watts each. See: Amazon.com: AC Infinity AXIAL 1225, Muffin Cooling Fan, 115V AC 120mm by... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWVUJ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I also have temperature and water detection probes in the right and left bays, called Acurite smartHUB.