I am taking my coach to NAC tomorrow, problem is the forecast for there tomorrow night is a low of 26°.
My question is if I get a space at FOT with shore power to run the furnace will it put heat into the basement also?
Thanks
Your rear propane heater should have ducts that heat the wet bay only. You can leave your water on to add additional heat to one end of the bay.
Correct-- the propane furnace is ducted into the wet bay.
Thanks Guys
I was hoping to get it winterized week after next when I get out of school but Mother Nature is not listening to me "LOL"
I will dump the water and blow it down but wont have time to add the antifreeze. I am leaving DFW about 3:30 am, get to Houston about 9:00, get the keys and do a check around before taking off. Hope to get to Herman's by 1:00 for tires and then take it over to FOT to park it and talk with them and head home.
You don't have a rear propane on a 270 but you do get circulation from the front unit. I only mention this because I tried to find it.
FOT lot normally is not full every night. Usually you can ignore warnings about paying for staying there is you are there for service .
Technically you need a service notice on your windshield as proof of current / long term service, but for the night before, I wouldn't sweat that.
Jim
2002 U320
Thanks Jim
I am leaving it there for brake work because I don't want to drive it to DFW until it is fixed. I just bought this in Houston and picking it up tomorrow and getting tires and this done on the way home.
since you are propane and not aqua hot - just make sure it is wintereized before you leave, there is not a big enough propane tank to leave the unit there on just propane heat.
If you have an ice maker and washer/dryer pay heed to the instructions for winterizing them as well
enjoy!
Tim Fiedler
Sure Start Soft Start (http://www.gen-pro.biz)
TCER Direct (http://www.tcerdirect.com) generator-gas-prod (http://www.generatorgasproducts.com) 630 240-9139
Gen-Pro
We have a rear propane furnace on our U270 - 40'. Not sure about the shorter coaches. It does duct into the water distribution bay. I added one of the small personal heaters in that bay, with a freeze cube. When on shore power, if it freezes the little heater turns on to protect the water system. Has worked so far.
Cheers Ric 8)
The forecast are for the next 10 days to be from low 50's to mid 60's in the days with 3 nights of the next 10 down to 31° and one night to 26° so I am hoping that by blowing it out and draining the hot water tank the heat on that will keep it from breaking anything. I can get back there week after next to do a full winterize.
We use furnace only heat, full-time, and have spent over a week in which temps did not get above freezing. Lows below 0 degrees. We kept wireless temp gauges in all vulnerable areas of the coach, and those areas rarely fell below 40-42 degrees. The furnace works great, no special precautions necessary for a 26 degree low.
The only time we had to take special precautions was on a day with a high of 17 with abundant sunshine. The sun heated the coach very nicely, and the furnace barely ran - and the underneath temps started to fall into the mid 30's - so we added a few space heaters for the day.
If you drain the hot water tank, be sure to tag the power switches. You don't want anyone (including yourself) to accidentally turn on the water heater while it is empty. Doing so will let the magic smoke out!
So true, thanks for the reminder
Have three ways to warm the water bay:
1. PROPANE
Two Foretravel original furnace ducts. This does not work if using overhead heat strips. This is boondock-friendly since the furnace does not use much electrical power.
2. 400 WATTS ELECTRIC
Two 200 watt 25 ft heat tapes, one on each side, loosely snaked around the pipes and tanks. It's built-in thermostat turns on at 42 degrees F.
3. FANS
I just drilled two three inch holes from the main cabin to the water bay. One hole has a quiet three inch 115VAC fan, which forces warm air from the main cabin into the water bay. The return hole has a grill on it and acts as the return air duct. This way, as long as the cabin temperature is at least 55 degrees, the water bay should not freeze. I also have two fans circulating around both right and left water bays. This is boondock-friendly since the fans only use less than 8 watts each. See: Amazon.com: AC Infinity AXIAL 1225, Muffin Cooling Fan, 115V AC 120mm.
I also have temperature and water detection probes in the right and left bays, called Acurite smartHUB.
This may be too late, if not, you should have time to at least pour rv anti freeze down p traps in kitch, bath, shower, and washer dryer drain. I'd set the thermostat to the lowest temp, fan on low, probably 40 degrees if plugged in. If you drain the water heater, I'd also leave open the low point drains after you blow them out. I've had customers forget to blow out the faucet or shower in the wetbay underneath. I have not put anti freeze in my lines, just blow them out a few times, time spaced apart. As advised Splendide advises pouring a qt or 2 of anti freeze in and run on spin cycle for a min or 2 to clear out water there and down the drain. There is also probably a p trap in the washer standing drain pipe.
Thanks Jack those are my intentions, I have the blowout plug and antifreeze in the car. ^.^d