The electric tries but not big enough element, furnace portion works ok, but when taking shower the burner will not sense that the hot water for shower is needed..is there a temp sensor going bad or ?
thnx
red
The diesel burner has a control thermostat just for the burner. It is located above the burner behind a plate.
OK, The furnace(coach heat) portion works good,burner kicks on and off as it should.. keeps coach comfy in 20 deg weather.
The hot water side is another story. burner will not kick on to keep the hot water hot.
So ... is there 2 control thermostats? one for the furnace/coach heat side and another one for the hot water supply?
Or just mebbe I have a loose connection @ the little panel with the 3(?) sensors... will have to check when the temps get above freezing
Same thermostat for heat and water. You might have a tempering valve issue. Wait for Rudy to give information on how to troubleshoot. I had one go bad on my Monaco.
Saddlesore,
Did you check to make sure there is enough flow on the hot water side as it might be plugged up? You may have enough heat so the burner won't kick on. Sometimes its good to periodically clean all the buildup of mineral deposits out of the hot water line. A good water filter really helps out with this issue.
Have plenty of hot water side flow.. think I may have a bad thermostat or I didn't get a wire on correctly/or pushed on like it should be.. too cold to "get after it" for a few weeks.
@ the S & B, so no rush
If burner works good for heating, it should also for hot water. My best guess would be mixing valve issues.
Are you using a low flow shower head like Oxygenics? Are you using the water tank or city water? We get this question every year when entry water temp drops.
To add to what was posted the aqua hot adds 55 degrees to whatever inlet water temps is run through it
Not quite Bob.
The thermostats are set for 180 on the burner and 190 on electric. The lower inlet temperature just slows the process down. If you had 40 deg inlet 95 deg wouldn't heat the coach.
Think this is what Bob is trying say. Following is from Rudy a couple of years ago:
The electric heating element in the heater is 1650 watts or 5000 BTU. The diesel burner is 50,000 BTU or ten times more heating capacity.
The electric element will heat the coach till the outside temp gets to about 50 F. Below that you may need to turn on the diesel especially if you are using heat from the heater for something else such has washing dishes not to mention a shower.
The electric element is not rated to provide long hot showers but the diesel burner is. So, when showering or heating in cooler to cold temps, run the diesel burner.
The temp of the hot water is controlled by the tempering valve located below the burner. Turning the knob in (righty tightly) makes the hot water at the shower cooler. I set the tempering valve to 115 to 120 degrees F.
The hot water spec is 55 degree F temperature rise at 1.5 gallon per minute flow. If you are using ground water that is 40 degrees F, you will only get 95 degree F hot water which will feel cool to you.
To get around that situation, fill coach's fresh water tank full and set basement thermostat all the way up. Next morning the tank will be 50 degrees F or better and by running off the coach's tank you will get a hot shower.
Hope this helps.
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Rudy Legett
1995 U320 M11 400 hp
Aqua Hot Service Houston and Southeast Texas
The antifreeze circuit is separate from the water heating circuit as far as I know. The external copper tubing around the main tank contain water. The tank itself contains antifreeze
I see where the 55 deg. number is for continuous flow. Since we never have hooked up to outside water it has never come into play. I don't know the capacity of the copper tubes which contain the water but if it is a reasonable amount, the outside water would only come into play on a very long shower. I have the tempering valve set at 120