Well I started out with what I'd hoped would be a routine check up and fluid change. The mechanic noticed a leak from the steering box. He ordered a rebuilt one and is having difficulty getting the arm off? Does he have to disconnect the generator to get at it or is there another way? As always thanks in advance for any ideas.
If it's like my 2003 model then the generator needs to be pushed out further than the stop will allow (remove stop) and the sidewall of the the quiet box needs to be removed (or an access hole can be cut out) and replaced after the job is completed.
Goldb,
On a '99 270 your sound box should be connected to the frame and not come out with the generator. The simplest way to work on the back side of the steering box is to remove the scatter shield from the underside of the generator. This is the conveyor belt material that is held on by 2 nuts on the front and 2 short bolts on the back. After this has been removed slide out the generator. Your radiator should slide out along with the genset as very few 270s had remote radiators in 99. Once the genset is out you will have a access area to work in. There should be 4 to 6 screws (hiden in the soundproofing) that you can remove and the radiator air deflector/director will come off. With the air deflector removed this will give you plenty of room/access to the steering box.
Pamela & Mike
Also, Just FYI there is a special puller to remove the pitman arm. They can be found on Ebay from time to time.
Gotta point him in the right direction. This should help. He said he saw a reference to the tool mentioned. Seeing if he can get one. Sounds like moving the generator may be a work around.Thanks for the info.
There is a member here that has one (puller) to loan out. Can't remember who but hopefully they will chime in if the offer is still open..
You will need a square driver to remove the little screws in the tin air deflector. Expect to destroy the soundproofing as I have never been able to save it on this age coach while doing this job.
Pamela & Mike
Here is the post that has the info on the puller (Mike has had time to think)
Steering box (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=26166.msg209002#msg209002)
Pamela & Mike
I have puller that I purchased. My impact only rated at 750 and would no budge arm. I rented bigger impact but still no luck, finally just took it to MOT and had them do work. 1998 U 270 has shield under generator like a rubber tire. 4 bolts to remove and Pittman arm is accessible.
PM if you want to borrow puller or email me.
Larry Bradley
1998 U 270
Your mechanic may have bit off more than he can chew. Why not replace the seal? Doesn't have a puller? You may be dollars ahead to cut your losses, and find a shop that routinely does this procedure on large vehicles. Pittman arms can be a royal pita to get off with the best equipment/tools and experience. Jmho
Where I am in Baltimore it's hard to find anyone who works on big trucks to work on a motor home. I guess they have enough business that they don't want mine. It's hit or miss trying to find consistent and reasonable shops around here. This was a first time try for these guys. My other option mostly does school bus repair.
The mechanic said he spoke to the place that provided the rebuilt box. He asked if he could cut the arm off and still get credit for the core. They gave the ok so he says he's moving forward . At this point it'll come out with new exhaust, new fluids,filters,belts,valve adjustment, manifold gasket,steering box, and me about 4 coach bucks poorer. Still needs air leak tracked down when warmer weather returns. Hoping to take it out on a retirement trip next fall. Need to get this stuff done while the paycheck is still coming.
I struggled in Baltimore to find a shop as well. I tried a few, and closely reviewed all work. Not happy. One did a haphazard job with sealant that I re-did. One put on the wrong belt (1/4" too long will cause squeaks, it seems). The only place I had a decent experience was Keystone RV Center. It's also listed in FT's recommended mechanics list, good online reviews, etc. It's in Greencastle, PA about 200 yards over the border from Maryland on Rt. 81 / Rt. 11 North, just north of Hagerstown. 50-60 minutes from most spots in Baltimore.
Re: He asked if he could cut the arm off and still get credit for the core
What are you talking about with cutting the arm? Cut the pitman arm? Then you need to buy a new (expensive) arm.
Cut the gear box? Then how will the pitman arm come off the cut off stub?
I had mine replaced at Josam in Orlando. They put a big puller on it, heated it with a torch and had a long bar against it to wack with a sledge hammer. It broke it loose.
Mark
This has worked for me on truck steering boxes. Replacing the seal is a given, but it is going to get rebuilt anyway.
Better check to see that you can get that pitman arm before you cut it off. I seem to remember that that arm is special and no longer available.
I bought the Sheppard clam shell remover and found it worked very well, I have loaned it out to many members doing this repair and it has worked well for them also. If your arm won't come off I would guess you have the wrong puller.
I used a 3/4" drive air impact to remove mine, Others have used a breaker bar and have no problems breaking it loose.
The puller is out right now but the current user is done with it. If you need it and the drive socket let me know, the current user can send it directly to you.
Thanks for the offer. I'll get more details on exactly how he plans to get the old one out and new one in. I'll also mention not damaging the existing pitman arm.
I have the Pitman tool from Lon and Cheryl that they have graciously lent out. Please let me know if you need it and I'll get it in the mail. I'm out of town for the week starting tomorrow, so if you let me know, I can get it in the mail before leaving.
Tony Pasquale has a mechanic in Baltimore that has worked on his coach. Pm him to get the name. He is on the forum
THIS!
Sounds like you need somebody that has done this before.
You don't want to pay somebody to learn on your dime and probably screw it up.
Its NOT a hard job, just labor intensive, If you have done it before you will have learned the procedure. Its easy to screw this up if you don't have guidance.