I dove into the overhead cabinets above the dash today. Oh man, I've never seen so many wires. It would seem that every previous work in this area simply left what was there and added more.
I'm sure I'll have more questions as I sort through this maze of wires. I'm attempting to label everything for future reference.
It appears all video enters above drivers left. This would appear to point to the cabinet above the window to drivers left as location for SAT TV gear and Source/TV switching gear (see related post)? There is a 120 V socket in this compartment and heavy gauge 12 V wiring, presumably for an inverter? I assume satellite would run from 120 V?
Driver overhead TV has been replaced with 40" LED on an articulating arm mounted in the original tube TV cabinet. This leaves a lot of space behind the flat screen, but I'm not sure what makes sense to leave there. There's also a 120 V socket in the space, I guess best for the TV.
But was immediately apparent is that previous owners have attempted to mitigate the heat load in this area. Whatever was installed from the factory appears to be deteriorating, and there is a layer of John's Mannsville fiberglass batting similar to what you would use in the house, and some silver bubble wrap type insulation over that.
Is there a single, one piece, insulation solution to install in this area that maximizes insulation from heat in the thinnest possible barrier?
Any tips in this effort are welcome.
Get on ebay and check out "noico" is just what you want,they also have a webb site.I would use the 80mil foil and then use the
sound barrier over that,I used this in my engine area and gen area,is a good product.
It looks like this material focuses on sound deadening. Don't we need lots of heat disappation above the windshield.
Try EZ cool insulation,double or triple layer it.
Just overhauled this area:
- Removed old LCD TV, VCR, Satellite, Blue Ray and 6-CD changer
- Repaired speakers using foam repair kit
- Removed large wooden CRT TV cabinet
- Re-glued original inch-thick black foam insulation
- Installed "Insulator" in all gaps. The exposed fiberglass cap was sweating and weeping during cold weather.
See INSULATOR - BY THE FOOT - 4 FT WIDE from Aircraft Spruce (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/insulator3.php?clickkey=58350)
- Installed plastic vapor barrier and taped it with aluminum tape
- On the left of the driver's head, installed Windows Laptop with dual Hauppauge USB tuners, Winegard Sensar Pro TV signal finder, 2.5 TB disk drives, AT&T Home Base cellular internet system, Acurite smartHUB 10-sensor temperature / weather station, USB hub for solar, BMS, hard drives and TV tuner
- Installed a 72 inch diagonal roll-up screen for projector
- Ran HDMI, Cellular, TV and 115VAC wiring
Now we just have to figure out how to finish the cabinets and gaping holes in a tasteful manner.
I'm doing the same thing right now. The old foam insulation was deteriorating, so I removed and replaced it with 1/2" adhesive backed foam, which I have previously used in the generator compartment.
Order Online Soundproofing Foam Mat for Acoustical Noise Control (http://www.supersoundproofingsales.com/Foam-Mat/products/17/)
I've also pulled out old wires and cables that were disconnected when we had the satellite installed - should have had them pull them out at that time.
Good luck.
Sven,
I have been looking for something for my generator quiet box. Most of them seem to have foil on at least one side. I assume this is for the high heat environment. Did you put any foil over the SSP Foam Mat, or is it adequate by itself?
Thanks,
Trent
I put the "Insulator", shown above over the foam to increase R value. It went down to 12 F last night and am glad I did.
The "Insulator" confoms to the curved shape of the cap, so no gluing was required.