Seems as though my shower enclosure has come loose at the wall. Does anyone know what adhesive product to use to re caulk/fasten it. Or does it need to be removed then reset?
Mine was held in by a couple screws and silicone
Thanks for the reply David. As silicone doesn't like to stick well over older surfaces I wonder if there is a better clear product to reseal with.
VHB tape will hold and seal .. probably never get it off lol
Bruce, silicone doesn't like to adhere to old silicone. I would use this to get the old silicone film off and then reseal with new silicone.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2151182
We ran a bead of 3M 5200 down both sides and it has not moved. Been 4 or 5 years.
Dick
I would second the use of 3M 5200. It is a permanent adhesive sealant, what is called for in this application. It is always available in marine stores and sometimes available at Lowes/Home Depot, and of course Amazon.
There are a couple screws in the vertical wall parts. I think you have to take it all apart to get to them. 3M 5200 will work but with almost any adhesive, prep is important. And you need to give the 5200 a couple days to cure.
With any shower unit one thing to remember is never put silicone or?? around the inside joint especially near the botom of vertical pieces and defininitly not across the bottom as any water that gets into the framing now will not be able to run back into shower area. I have come across this many many times when doing reno's in homes. Water has built up for a couple of feet in height behind metal trims and caused wall rot and corroded screws ( if SS ones not used) I do realise that our walls in coach will not rot but you still want a clear path for water to get out of metal framing, or, at least be able to dry out.
JohnH
That is a good point, John. They also make shower stall installation clear silicone caulk that is mold and mildew proof (resistant). Another place to make sure your seal is good is around the vertical sides of the shower skylight and the white cover. Moisture and condensation can get behind the shower skylight sides and into the roof structure.
Question about the 3m 5200. In your experience with this product, do you think it could adhere a metal magnet to the front window. I have a magna shade and we have lost a couple of the interior magnets due to vibration. I asked 3m about their double sided tapes requesting if they had a stronger one. The reply I got from them was "No, due to heat and vibration it was not recommended for that use."
I am currently trying to find something that will work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Actually I would disagree with 3M and use their VHB tape unless the magnets are huge!!
I have used this tape for many things and many of us have solar panels held to the roof with it, so there is a case for heat/vibration etc etc.
Try it , you will like it, and, if it does not work after a few trips then use my favourite caulk CHEM LINK (clear) and that WILL hold them once set up, and can be taken off the windshield if needed in future where 5200 cannot (without a hammer)
JohnH
Contact Magna shade you can get more adhesive pads from them. Secret is to assure there windshield is cleaned per their instructions before applying the magnets.
Roland
You have almost nothing to lose by trying 3M VHB tape. If I recall the magnets are on the inside of the glass and the shade has magnets in pockets that line up with them from the outside. The attractive force of the pair of magnets should make the tape stick even better. Clean the glass well. 3M makes a cleaner/bond enhacer that is like a small wet wipe. Good idea to use these to be sure of a clean surface,
Wouldn't the glue for the rear view morrior on a car windshield work? It's easily available at auto parts places or even an auto glass shop. Car rear view uses a metal peice glued to the glass
3M 5200 is the closest thing to forever there is - I would go VHB on clean glass or new material from Magna Shade (if not VHB) before I would use 5200. But. it. will. stick. with. 5200.
Hade a 26' mako, guys in FL built a SWEET T-top out of 3" aluminum tubing, huge roof with sunbrella fabric, 6 rocket launcher rod holds on top. Used 5200 and 1" x 3/8" lag series into deck. I called them on it, concerned at least about the wind towing a highway speeds. They laughed and showed me on they had to saw the deck out of a sunk and abandoned boat, and then chisel off the deck material from the bottom of the pads that attached the t-top to the neck. Basically they said the screws hold the top to the deck till the 5200 was cured and then they could take them out and the top would be fine.
Their advice, use 5200 when you need to stick something eternity, otherwise use something else if you will ever need to get it off.
Tim Fiedler
Sure Start Soft Start (http://www.gen-pro.biz)
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